I'm going with "botched repair", but a scan would tell for sure.

When the guy wasn't sure he could repair it and hoped he didn't make it worse, he should have simply not gone through with it so you could send the module to somebody who IS qualified to do the repair.

 

Just for clarification Sirwired

At this time something is preventing any scanner from connecting to pull codes. I will disconnect the harness and go see if it can be scanned.

The owner of the shop said he could fix it. Even went as far as telling me that it needs to be done under a magnifying glass. However; he didn't do the repair. His other mechanic did.

That's when I found out his other guy did it. Other guy said he hoped the repair was good and didn't mess something up butt he would never do another one again unless he had better tools. Thing is he knows Bosh are crap and has repaid them before. What's the difference with a VW and the others?

Plus I know he didn't use a magnifying glass because he said he had to hold the module an inch or to from his face to see what he was doing and it would have been better to have one :icon_eek:

 

The better repair shops like module master replace a failure prone part of the wiring with a more reliable new design . soldering the old design is difficult if you have no experience in handling very thin wires .

 

Also, now Modualmasters will not attempt a repair on a previously attempted fix.
Best bet pick up unit from a local pick & Pull.
You might get lucky and not have to send it for a repair.
Re-coding may be needed but that's not difficult.

My local has them for $70 +$4 core.

 

Matt at Cheap ABS says it's likely a botched mod repair.

Send it to Matt. He is the man. Three years ago I opened my ABS module in a failed attempt to repair it myself but ended up totally ruining it.
Then I packed and sent it to Matt. He miraculously repaired it and after 3.5 years it still works like a champ. I definitely recommend Matt for his workmanship.
He knows the ABS shit better than anyone else.:thumbup:

 

To restore your car's scannability, disconnect the ABS control module. I was unable to get my car smogged because a flaky ABS module prevented the shop's equipment from reading my ECU.

If Matt can't fix your ABS, consider buying another on eBay and sending it to him if it proves flaky. I have bought two ABS modules from reputable eBay sellers. One is still in the car and still works, but the other was dead on arrival, and the seller refunded my money and let me keep it. I'll probably send that one to Matt so that I have a ready-to-go spare for this known weak component.

 

I'll probably send that one to Matt so that I have a ready-to-go spare for this known weak component.

That may not be necessary. The repaired modules usually never break again. But if you want to have it fixed then you may resell it.

 

I used Module Repair Pro Inc. in Van Nuys, California.
They are close by me. I had the repaired ABS module back in 2 days--1 day there, one day back thru the mail.
I can highly recommend them, too.

Also, they can sell you a newly repaired module for $99 if yours is FUBAR.

 

He thinks the Anti Slip light is on because of a bad wheel sensor. I think it's because of a botcher repair. Matt at Cheap ABS says it's likely a botched mod repair.

Nine nines probability of a botched repair. This is a very tricky soldering job that I, personally, wouldn't attempt - and I used to run a computer repair shop.

 

Thanks for the feedback.

I'm going to make sure the owner of the shop checks the ABS module 1st to see if his mechanic botched the repair before he starts poking around any of the electrical.

In the mean time I'll disconnect it and run down to Orileys to see if they can at least connect to the computer to pull codes.

 

Your best bet is a VAGCom for accurate codes on the ABS.

 

As I understand it, the issue with these modules (Bosch, not VW-specific) is a series of hair-thin wires that connect the circuit board to the contacts on the housing. Over time they break from vibration and repeated flexing. Now, the problem with amateur repair is the wires aren't plain copper - they appear to be some sort of gold alloy, and if touched with a soldering iron at the wrong temp or in the wrong way, they basically evaporate. Factory assembly is done with an automated machine in a manner that's hard to duplicate by hand.

Competent repair replaces all these leads with a heavier duty but still suitable wire, essentially fixing the design flaw that caused the problem in the first place. Other repairs are usually trying to re-attach the existing leads.

 

Scotts13

You described the insides and metals as they were described to me.

Apparently the only way to correctly repair these is to know what you are doing and having the proper equipment. Things are very sensitive in there and if you don't pay attention you will not fix it..

I'm thinking the guy that attempted the repair didn't realise he may have melted something else. Therefore my new issue all points the the modual being the culprit.

 

Apparently the only way to correctly repair these is to know what you are doing and having the proper equipment. Things are very sensitive in there and if you don't pay attention you will not fix it.

That is correct. You need special soldering guns and definitely good magnifying glass. Actually for majority of the failure cases, the main contact which is silver made becomes lose and the rest of thin contacts are fine since they sit in a jelly material. All is needed to be done is to re-solder the lose silver contact and there you go. But if someone starts messing up with the thin contacts (like myself) then the repair becomes very difficult. Fortunately, Matt was able to reverse my screw up with the module and I was lucky. So I hope you're lucky too and this guy has not totally ruined the thin contacts because then you may have serious issue getting it refixed.

 

I have not opened up an ABS module, but I have seen photos which indicate the internal bonding wires are similar to those used in the 2.7T's notoriously failure-prone exhaust temperature sensors. I opened up one of those and decided it was beyond my pretty decent soldering ability.

 

Emry. AND anyone else that can chime in would be greatly appreciated.

I am learning fast on these mods lol.

I disconnected the electrical connector to the ABS Mod. Went up to have the car scanned. NO codes but it scanned!!! At least I'm getting something from the computer.

I now can tell the people I took it too to NOT poke around anything else. Focus on the ABS mod and fix what you broke while attempting to fix what was the original issue

 

Emry. AND anyone else that can chime in would be greatly appreciated.

I am learning fast on these mods lol.

I disconnected the electrical connector to the ABS Mod. Went up to have the car scanned. NO codes but it scanned!!! At least I'm getting something from the computer. I now can tell the people I took it too to NOT poke around anything else. Focus on the ABS mod and fix what you broke while attempting to fix what was the original issue

If I were you I wouldn't give the ABS module back to those guys. Evidently they don't know how to fix it. Giving it back to them makes it worse. My suggestion is to just ship it to Matt and he will fix it even if it's in a very bad condition.

I doubt those guys would take any responsibility at this stage and refund you. So perhaps your best bet would be to take your losses and move on. The most important issues at this moment is to get the module fixed before the winter arrives.

 

From what I read, it's always the two thicker wires that fail. Other than people accidentally melting the thin gold wires trying to do the work themselves, they don't seem to fail on their own.

 

Took the car back to the mechanic. He pulled it off and had a look see. The wires that were fixed were correct however it wasn't worth getting into fixing the new issue because by the time he did all the work it would be better to order another one that he can warranty.

He originally told me to drop the car off so he could be involved in the work from beginning to end. I wanted to save the $50 for removal so I just brought him the mod. Had I simply dropped the car off. Spent the 50 I don't think I would be in this predicament.

Ohh well. Lesson learned. He's only charging me 85 for the replacement mod and install. So all in all. I'll have spent like 180 on the whole process. A bit more than Matt would have been but less than others. Plus he's gone through the car and started a list of things that need repair.

jj

 

$85? New modules are more than that, and generally so is a used module plus a competent repair. I expect you'll be getting a used module that will eventually fail as the original did - from the same design issue. Another lesson.

 

If this one fails I will be sending it to Matt lol

So the indicator that shows the Average Miles Per Gallon fluctuates while I drive. It goes anywhere from 15 mph up to like 85 mph.

Any ideas or is this normal?

Thank you

 

I rather think you have it set for instantaneous mileage rather than average. Press the button until the mileage is accompanied by a slashed zero for average.

 

Are you talking the the button on the dash to the right of the display? If so I pushed it and all it does is reset the tripometer.
Do you do this while driving or parked?

Thanks

 

As you can tell I'm still new to my aging Passat lol. :icon_eek:

That Pic/button did the trick

Thank you!!!

 

:thumbup:

 

Anyone have an idea of what the 'average' MPG should be on this car? Now that I have my info center working again (by way of replacing the ABS module)??

2001 Passat V6 sedan FWD 195,000 miles

 

It really depends on how you drive. My city/hwy mixed usually ends up over 28 mpg. Strictly hwy I get a hair over 33.

1.8T AWM.

 

jjpark, your V6 will be notably less than a 1.8T.

 

I figured my v6 would be worse than the 1.8 but I know it's got to be better than both my Chevy trucks :thumbup:

 

Hey Guys i Might be having the same issue? My ABS ,Brake,Oil and Check engine are all on and on top of it The RPM Gauge Does not work Either

 

It's not a bad guess. Unplug the module and see if everything (except the ABS, of course) goes back to normal.


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