If the CCT timing is correct (Notches line up with CCT extended), then I would start checking the wires and grounds. Usually, you would get a code for timing for setpoint not reached, advanced or retarded.
Did you swap remove the sensor wheel when you replaced the CCT? If not, it can be bent and cause that issue. If so, are you certain it was properly installed? I once had a reputable shop rebuild a head and put the sensor wheel in 180 out, and bending the tab flat.

 

I did have the sensor wheel off way back when I did that and it has been good for a few years. I did remove it to make sure it was correct and verify it will only go on one way unless you crush the tab. I also started it with the sensor off to watch it spin and make sure it wasn’t out of round or something like that. I have a parts car so when I get the new cam position sensor I my go ahead and swap the other wheel since it’s so easy.
I checked the connector with the key on and I have ground on the black wire, 4.98v on the middle wire and 10.04 on the other. Not sue what they are supposed to be, I may put a battery on the parts car and compare.
Thanks for the reply PZ.

 

16724/P0340 - Ross-Tech Wiki

wiki.ross-tech.com

 

I have seen that. The timing is not misaligned unless the VVT solenoid is doing something crazy when it is running. I question if it may have low oil pressure but not low enough to set off the alarm. With the timing correct and the voltage at the connector, I guess That leaves me to see what the new cam position sensor does.
Thanks for the reply

 

Put the new cam position sensor on and am still getting the p0340. When I clear it and refresh it’s gone, after a few seconds i refresh again and it is pending 🙁. I’m not sure how to go about testing the wiring but it looks ok. Here are some pics of my timing marks, all is good to me.

 

Just ohmed out the cam sensor wires back to the ECM. They are all good....

I can’t help but think there is an issue with the oil pressure or the VVT portion of the cam chain tensioner. I guess I will check the oil pressure next and then if no issues then, I will change the chain tensioner...

 

I can't be sure from your angled pics, but it looks like it is set at 15 links.

Confirm the chain link locations.

https://www.passatworld.com/attachments/cam_timing_chains-gif.102122/

NOTE: V6 Bank 1 pic is not correct, it should be like the 1.8T.

 

It is 16, sadly I wish it was at 15, so I could fix it.

 

Did you check it against the pic that I posted ?

 

Yes sir

 

I will try to get some better pics tonight with paint marks on links 1 and 16

 

Well... oil pressure doesn’t look to be the issue. 35psi at idle after about 10 minutes of running, goes up to 60 at 1500rpm

 

1st and 16th pins marked

 

Isn't there a small screen inside the CCT, sort of its own filter? Maybe that is clogged up or the CCT itself is just no good.

 

I guess that will be my next step. I’m a little skeptical but I’m not sure what else it could be. The car is keeping the chain tight and the code comes back at an idle. Surely it’s not the ecm.

 

I'd suspect the sensor rings before the ECM. Is there a way to read the timing advance with VCDS?

 

I swapped the sensor rings as well as the crank sensor just for good measure. The same problem still exists...

I am sure there is but I don’t have VCDS. This is a $1900 car if the check engine light was fixed, so I am not too crazy about buying any software, although I don’t know what that would cost.

 

It now appears that the chain is set to 14 rollers, but I can't fully check because you didn't post a clear pic of the whole chain.
The CCT is too low.

If you post 3 pics like the following, I should be able to check.
Exhaust cam:

http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y334/a777fan/2000%20Passat%20GLX%204Motion/D3FD3F89-7A06-4012-B29C-CA1989237A2C_zpsplsj8mf2.jpg

Intake:

http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y334/a777fan/2000%20Passat%20GLX%204Motion/61BE40FA-ABEA-4220-A655-AB739B83D21C_zpsthveseiu.jpg

Overall:

http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/y334/a777fan/2000%20Passat%20GLX%204Motion/79C9DD47-4EF4-4334-BB9C-19A442E10166_zpsnctfga9p.jpg

 

I am having a tough time as I am a bit spaced out, but here is what I can see.
Pic 1, the timing mark is just a hair behind the mark from that angle, so it might be ok, or it might not.
Pic 2, the timing mark is 1 tooth behind the mark from that angle. It should be 1/2 tooth forward of the mark on the valve cover.
Pic 3, the chain count looks good, but the CCT is too low. Should not happen if the engine is rotated clockwise to TDC.
Pic 4+5, same as Pic 3.
Pic 6+7, can't tell without a full pic of the CCT and chain to compare count, but probably good.

I suspect the timing belt is 1 tooth off and the CCT is failing to raise fully (unless you turned the engine counterclockwise to line up the cam marks).

 

I am positive there are 16 links and the chain is correct, but you may be on to something with the cct being low. The car is a 5 speed and I put it in gear and just rolled the car forward while watching the crank pulley marks. The lower pulley was about a 16th of an inch from tdc which would translate to 1/32 on the cam pulley. I feel like the next tooth forward is going to be 1/4” off. You say they are usually 2/2 tooth past the mark ton the valve cover?

 

The cam pulley mark should be 1/2 tooth ahead of the mark on the valve cover. From that pic, it looks like it's behind the mark. It could just be the picture, since the exhaust cam seems to line up properly.

 

If both cam notches are aligned with the cam cap marks, and the CCT is too low, and the chain is tight, the roller count is less than 16.

 

Only the exhaust cam is aligned to the cam cap perfectly. The intake cam is past the mark by about 1/8 inch. Between the cct being low and the cam chain with 225,000 miles. I figure that accounts for it.
Sounds like I need to replace both.

 

You guys are going to laugh. Considering the above and since I have two cam sensor reluctor rings.. I just cut about 3/32 off of the tang of one of them so that I could retard that ring a few degrees and the code is staying clear now.
Looks like you are correct and that cct is staying too flat. Time for a new one. I appreciate the help and advice. I didn’t realize it was suposed to be sitting higher than that, but I did suspect it was a cheap eBay part. It lasted a few years I guess. I am thinking of putting the factory VW CCT back on with new shoes. The only thing wrong with it a few years ago was the shoes were falling apart.

 

you cannot over tighten on install with the installation tool or otherwise you will bend/deform the stop pin (which is inside the top shoe/piston assembly within the internal spring) I suggest when you remove the existing one you do an internal forensic on the current one you have in the car. It is common to over tighten the tool with the thought, "the more I tighten it the easier it will be to install the chain" ,not so. Sorry, the belt on the crank to exhaust cam may "stretch" a teeny bit, but the cam to cam chain may wear a miniscule amount but not to the extent one presumes, none,nada,zippo, if any stretch to worry about.

 

I think it is unlikely that you have a faulty CCT.

Try the following. Use a socket on the crank centre bolt to turn the engine.
Turn crank clockwise to TDC, if you go past TDC don’t go back, turn another 2 turns clockwise and stop at TDC.
Don't touch anything else.
Take 3 pics, as shown in post #19.