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khnitz

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm facing having to change the transmission in my '04 Passat with the 2.8L V6.

There are a lot of 5 speeds available from the 1.8T equipped cars, but not so many from V-6 donors.

So, my question - other than gear ratios - are there any other issues I may encounter when trying to use a 1.8T tranny in a V-6 Passat? Not just in using it, but also in installing it - different mounting brackets, swap X & Y parts over to the new tranny, etc.?
 
Externally they should be the same. You will need to use the V6 driver's side trans bracket and mount. The car will run about 600 rpm higher on the highway ( I don't remember the exact rpm).
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
PZ, thanks for that info. Turning higher RPM on the highway is not great, but it beats the alternative of not being able to drive it at all. Maybe it's a short-term solution I can consider while I get the original transmission rebuilt.

Speaking of which (rebuilding) - does anyone have recommendations for shops near SE Michigan (Detroit area and surroundings) that are trusted for this kind of work on a VW transmission? Worst case I could send it somewhere, too, but the freight would be prohibitive, I imagine.

And, if I have the original trans rebuilt, I would definitely consider a taller 5th gear to be installed, as well (and I've also read about recommendations for changing the 3rd gear for better spacing of the ratios, so maybe that, too).
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Yeah, used transmissions are running $200-250 or so, without shipping, but I'm mostly finding ones for 1.8T, or ones from high mileage donors. I debate installing a unknown used trans vs. repairing the one I have where I know most of the history of, but it's likely the input shaft bearing is bad.

Still, I may swap it for now, and take my time rebuilding the original and then hold it ready to put back in if something fails with the used replacement.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Thanks! I was searching ebay, as well...just trying to see if I can locate one not too far away. But, again, I would basically be planning to rebuild the one I remove and have it ready, just in case...as I wouldn't really know the history of the used one I buy and then would basically be anticipating it, too, to fail.

All in all, I'm pretty shocked that this happened to my manual Passat tranny (and has happened to others). I've driven VW manual transmissions for hundreds of thousands of miles and never had a failure. But, it can and does happen.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
PZ, I located a tranny though that website you mentioned and picked it up last Saturday. For $100, it was worth a shot.

Now, how bad a job is it to swap it? I'm comfortable doing the work. I'm planning to get at it from under the car (car will be up on ramps) and bring it back and down. How long a job to make the swap doing it this way? Any tips or tricks (ex: definitely remove the V6 exhaust downpipe/cats, tilt the front of the engine up by removing the front engine mount, etc.)? Can you make the swap without disconnecting the clutch slave cylinder line (ex: remove the slave cylinder from the old tranny and leave it hang, then attach it to the replacement tranny)?

I have a tranny jack available and the triple-square bits to remove the CV axles, too. And I'll put fresh gear oil in the replacement tranny before installing it, too.
 
It's not too bad if you are comfortable doing the work. You will need more clearance than ramps provide and they will really be in the way most of the time. You need about 18" of clearance for the bellhousing below the subframe, so add a few inches for the jack. The trans weighs about 100 lbs, so it's fairly easy to maneuver (compared to 300lbs for my 4mo tip trans). I bought a set of 6 ton stands so I have enough room when I pull a trans.

You do not need to remove the downpipes/cats but you might need to disconnect the back half of the exhaust and possibly remove it. You don't need to drop the rear subframe, but it makes it easier to reach some of the bolts and gives a bit more room to work with. You can pull the slave cylinder out and leave it hang. It can be a pain to install a new one, but an older one should be a bit easier. You might have a heater hose connector in the way of one bolt at the top. If you put too much side pressure on the hose, it can break the connector.

You can swap the trans in a day and some people can do them in half a day.

Make sure all of the bolt holes on the replacement trans are clean. The last one I installed had dried mud from the junkyard plugging several of them and the speedo connector had some corrosion on the contacts. I would replace the trans mounts (if original) since they will be out, most people don't realize they are bad until they remove them.

Good luck.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Good call on replacing the transmission mounts while I'm in there...I just ordered them (they are likely original, so they have 80k miles and 12+years on them).

I'll be careful of the hoses around the bellhousing bolts.

I have low-profile race ramps with the detachable ramp portion, so that should let me get around under there OK. I think they are the 10" high ones, so clearance should be OK, but I'll confirm with the replacement tranny on the tranny jack first and make sure there is clearance to move it around under there.

I haven't swapped a tranny since I did on my old '81 VW Caddy diesel. Had to swap it twice until I got one that worked (original 4spd was changed to one 5spd that sounded like there were marbles inside, to finally another 5spd that worked great). That second swap I got done in just a few hours alone, since I had the practice from the first time ;) This will be a different animal, though :)
 
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