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Trailer Wiring - D.I.Y.

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diy trailer wiring
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39K views 29 replies 15 participants last post by  Luckybarker  
L
#1 · (Edited)
After deciding to buy a trailer for my Variant, I went into research mode to determine how to wire up the lighting for the trailer I plan on buying in the next couple of weeks. 'pass-variant's no-splice method inspired me to figure out how to do this properly. As the rear of the taillight on his 2001 is quite different from the 2002 that I have, I had to get a bit more creative. One main difference is the additional takeoff for the side marker lights that are not on a 2001.

The hardest part was determining the German shortforms printed on the bulbholder which I have summarized on the wiring diagram. I was able to build my own harness, make it easily removable and did not have to cut or tap into any existing wiring! I am not an expert in wiring but it really wasn't that difficult once I had the parts. I had confidence it would work and tested all circuits, reviewed Bentley wiring diagrams and created a wiring diagram that I can now share with my fellow B5ers.

This wiring took me under 2 hours and estimated costs (in Canadian dollars) are as follows:
Converter - $30
16ga wire - $5
Male (4 pack)/Female (4 pack) Insulated Disconnects - $5
Heat Shrink Butt Connector (4/pack) - $5
VW wire (2) - $11
VW connecter plug - $1
Crimp tool - had it
Wire Strippers - had it
Solder and Gun - had it (from rear fog mod!)

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Download wiring PDF of above here


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Now I am just waiting for the hitch to arrive any day now ....
 
L
#5 ·
vwDavid said:
Where did you find your HH electrical converter for that price? Did you get it in Canada, if so, what store.

thx
Click to expand...
They have gone up a bit to around $40+. I picked it up locally at:

http://www.rackattack.biz/

Rack Attack Toronto
127 Laird Drive
Toronto, ON, M4G 3V4
Canada
tel : 416.424.1201

Since you're in Vancouver:

Rack Attack Coquitlam
Unit #5 1300 Woolridge Avenue
Coquitlam, BC, V3K 6Y6
Canada
tel : 604.526.7225

Rack Attack Vancouver
98 West 3rd Avenue
Vancouver, BC, V5Y 1E4
Canada
tel : 604.872.7225
 
E
#8 ·
How long have you had this installed?

Only reservation I'd have about the schematic is the trailer running lights. The schematic has them in parallel with the rear running lights which should still be the standard 21 watts.

If you end up blowing any fuses due to current draw issues, you could always install a larger fuse and check how hot the wiring gets after ~30 min. :Yikes:
 
L
#9 ·
Electron Man said:
How long have you had this installed?

Only reservation I'd have about the schematic is the trailer running lights. The schematic has them in parallel with the rear running lights which should still be the standard 21 watts.

If you end up blowing any fuses due to current draw issues, you could always install a larger fuse and check how hot the wiring gets after ~30 min. :Yikes:
Click to expand...
Over a year. Remember the original OEM VW tailights are supposed to have 4 bulbs and the NA version only has 2, so the way I figure it, it is the same draw with the same wiring harness. The convertor also has a circuit protection device....I am not worried.
 
V
#12 ·
Thanks to leadfoot.

I completeding my trailer wiring install today. I purchased a Reese Tow power trailer light converter from Canadian tire, on sale for $55. Model 74107C which is basically a rebranded Modulite controller with Circuit protection and it is powered.

I fished the + and - power lines to the passengar side and crimped them to a cigarette plug adapter. When I tow I simply plug this in to one of the two power jacks in the hatch area. When not in use I stuff it in the cubby.

Using leadfoots no splice method I connected all the taps, but, instead of soldering on a connection for the running lights I just used a quick-tap-lock thing. When towing I just plan to close the hatch on the cord and dangle it out the hatch. When not in use I'll roll it up in the cubby.

Tested her out and voila! perfect. Thanks for the beautiful instructions. cheers!
 
I
#13 ·
Thanks Leadfoot.

A few quick question:

- Should I expect to be able to get the VW specific parts (i.e., the wire and connector plug) from my local dealer, or will I need to order them?

- From the diagram, it looks like there are 3 of the VW wires used, but you only list two

- In the following photo, is the solder from you or was there already some there?

Image


and finally:

- The diagram lists three of the connections as "optional". Can you explain what will not function if they are omitted?

Thanks again for the help!
 
L
#14 ·
izzy said:
Thanks Leadfoot.

A few quick questions

- Should I expect to be able to get the VW specific parts (i.e., the wire and connector plug) from my local dealer, or will I need to order them?

- From the diagram, it looks like there are 3 of the VW wires used, but you only list two

- In the following photo, is the solder from you or was there already some there?

and finally:

- The diagram lists three of the connections as "optional". Can you explain what will not function if they are omitted?

Thanks again for the help!
Click to expand...
Here you go:
1) Wire and plugs available from your VW dealer. The VW wires should be in stock. The small plastic plug took a day to order in.
2) The wires come with two ends and you cut them in half, therefore you actually end up with 4 connectors - you'll have one left over.
3) I soldered the wire to ensure a permanent connection (can always be heated up and removed if required). It is very easy to do. If you can't solder you could wrap the wire on the metal or 'tap' into the SL line. Just buy a solder gun, read up online about soldering and try it out. What's the worst that can happen? I haven't done much soldering in my life but it isn't rocket science.
4) The 'optional' connectors only serve the purpose of if in the future I want to sell the car and remove the wiring harness without anyone knowing it was installed I can disconnect it. Or if under the chance the convertor needs replacing, it'll be an easy disconnect. In reality, I'll probably never need them but thought it gives me flexibilty in the future.

Hope that helps you out.
 
L
#16 ·
izzy said:
...question:

How do you get the green wire from the converter all the way over to the right bulb holder?
Click to expand...
I tucked it under the chromed/stainless steel trim piece that goes from side to side at the sill (around the latch). I used a bit of electrical tape to ensure it stays there...you could also use some silicone or caulking if you have it lying around.
 
B
#21 ·
trailer hitch install

Installing the hitch on the body of my '03 Passat wagon (2 wheel drive) was the easy part! The electrical kit from the same source was even easier. The hard part was figuring out which wires to splice into but Leadfoot's drawing withe the color-coded wiring chart made it possible, so thanks for that chart! The pdf link is dead so you have to print the one on this thread.
 
J
#22 ·
Will have my euro hitch installed soon on my 04 b5.5 TDI wagon and found this thread on a search. My questions are:
1] I can't find a t-type plug-n-play... seems none are made for this app.?
2] Can a typical euro to USA converter be spliced in the usual way? It seems this is really overthought or does this deal with other issues I'm unaware of? I realize it also about being able to remove it with no sign of ever having the wiring installed.
 
#28 ·
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