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Discussion Starter #1
My 2015 is already hitting 50k miles and needs some new pads. So I called two shops today and both of them told me they had to change the rotors out when the brake pads are changed. Something about not being able to turn them and something else about a wire. Both shops quoted me around 350.00 per axle.

What is the deal with that? Is that something you have to do on the newer models? My 2007 Jetta always could just have the pads changed out?
 

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I have one on the front with a tiny score on it. It's not large or deep... I need to take a photo. Maybe I have no choice? I was told they could not be turned.

One thing I was going to ask today was in regards to the "wire" the shops keep talking about. I searched around and found out that VW's have a brake pad wear indicator on them. I am wondering if the newer models all do or if it was an option? I am also curious if it's just on the front axle. I read on here that VW's tend to have rear bias, so maybe those are bad hence why I never got a warning light?

Anyhow my car is at just over 50k miles. Is that a normal amount for pad replacement? I assume the rotors if not damaged should last longer than that? Thanks for the help!
 

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700 does not sound like an unfair price for four new rotors and new pads plus labor, but what exactly does that buy. Are they all OEM parts? Performance aftermarket parts will retail for between 500 to 600. I did brakes almost three years ago. I bought Zimmerman solid rotors and EBC Red Stuff pads. That was forty thounsand miles ago. Everything seems to be wearing well and the car stops reliably.
 

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I have no idea if they are OEM. They just told me they had to replace the rotors due to their material (not being able to be turned down). And the pads. They then mentioned "a wire" which now I realize is connected to the pads. The one thing that brought to mind was why the indicator didn't go off? Or if these wires are not on the rear. As I mentioned I am not sure if the sound is coming from the front or rear. At least I know 700ish isn't bad (thank you).
 

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I used to have my rotors turned years ago. Most auto parts stores will do it for you. They have the specifications on file and will measure the thickness of the rotor faces to determine whether enough material is present. IMO, turning them diminishes their mass which makes them more prone to warping.

Are you opposed to changing them yourself for <$300?

The wire they mentions may have been just to intimidate you a little bit to justify the high cost. It is a sensor that is built into the front pads to provide the driver a warning light when the pads are worn.

I would never pay $700 to replace brakes. If you can change your own oil, you can change your own brakes. The hardest part is lifting the vehicle up securely to remove the wheels. Brake service tools can be rented from AutoZone for free.

https://www.amazon.com/Autospecialty-KOE2963-1-Click-Replacement-Brake/dp/B00AN5UY3A/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1515680111&vehicle=2017-74-979-2598--1-6-5-19307--1-1-2317--1-0&sr=1-2&ymm=2017:volkswagen:passat

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/volkswagen,2015,passat,1.8l+l4+turbocharged,3310264,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor+&+brake+pad+kit,13824
 

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Disk Brakes - IMHO

1. They are brakes people, not breaks!
2. Rotor scoring, generally caused by metal deposits in the pads, is not a problem, unless and until it causes accelerated pad wear or uneven braking.
3. Replace pads when they get thin, replace rotors when they cause shuddering and or uneven braking (glazing?).
4. These days, turning rotors is rarely economically the best choice. It may cost a bit less than replacing but it leaves you with rotors that are less able to dissipate heat, which can lead to brake fade and/or shuddering (see below).
5. Changing the brake pads (pad slap) and/or rotors is easy and all men (and willing women) should learn how.
6. Most brakes-only shops are disreputable and many are outright thieves!
7. Brake fluid flushes can be done less frequently in arid climates.

The cause of brake shudder in the vast majority of cases is not a warped rotor, it is instead an unevenly worn rotor. Aggressive or high-speed braking, terminating with the pads in prolonged contact with the stationary rotor, causes the metal in that area under the pad to become harder and subsequently wear less than other parts of the rotor, leading to variations in the rotor surfaces (both sides). To minimize this phenomenon, you should release the brakes after aggressive or prolonged braking. In other words, if you slam on your brakes, or come down a steep hill, to a dead stop, don't sit at the stop with your foot on the brakes. Release the brakes, even if you have to put the car in park while you wait. This will let the rotors cool evenly.
 

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1. They are brakes people, not breaks!
?? I don't see any references to breaks by anyone here ??

3. Replace pads when they get thin, replace rotors when they cause shuddering and or uneven braking (glazing?).
Glazing is pad material deposited to the rotor surface and can be removed by sanding. The rotor surface is never smooth by the time the pads are worn out, so it just didn't seem right to put new pads on old rotors, even when bedding them. By the time you have the caliper's off to replace pads you're 80% there. Just do it!
 

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My 2015 is already hitting 50k miles and needs some new pads. So I called two shops today and both of them told me they had to change the rotors out when the brake pads are changed. Something about not being able to turn them and something else about a wire. Both shops quoted me around 350.00 per axle.

What is the deal with that? Is that something you have to do on the newer models? My 2007 Jetta always could just have the pads changed out?
As mentioned before. if you're handy with tools you can buy both rotors and pads for under $100 at a local parts store. Do the job in about 2 hours and you'll have new brakes and save quite a bit of dough....
 
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