Volkswagen Passat Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,564 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Happy Independence Day everyone! Enjoy:







Nice thing about doing this is, I'm able to ensure I have all the right number of bolts and ensure the gaskets are correct. As it turns out, I do need to purchase a set of carburator studs/nuts. Another thing I "might" do, but not 100% on yet, are the valve cover bolts. I found it a little annoying and now understand why some use studs instead (kept slipping off the valve heads). Also realized I need to chase the threads on the heads and spark plug holes. Just little things come to mind everytime I do a mockup. Good exercise and keeps me focused for this long-term project.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,302 Posts
Herman - make sure you spray the carb gaskets with silicone spray. That way they'll just peel off when you do a rebuild or you want to rejet it. No chiseling them off one of the body parts...

Nice o/a...will you track this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,564 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Green_Hornet said:
Herman - make sure you spray the carb gaskets with silicone spray. That way they'll just peel off when you do a rebuild or you want to rejet it. No chiseling them off one of the body parts...

Nice o/a...will you track this?
Green: it'll be tracked more than the Passat that's for sure. It'll mostly be on the streets but usually with these things, it doesn't take much to put it on the track. I need to seriously put in a REAL scatter shield to make it legal and a set of track tires (non-period correct ) along with some serious pads. I've always wanted to try places like Button Willow or Thunderhill; most of the CA Cobra Clubs usually hold races in those spots.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,564 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Specs are as follows:
Short Block as purchased:·
Summit 5.0 block bored .030" over ( 4.030" x 3.250" )·
4340 Forged Steel Crank·
4340 Forged Eagle "H" beam rods with ARP 12pt. bolts
Ross Racing XL400 Forged Aluminum Pistons (w/60cc head: 10.15:1 CR)·
Clevlite bearings·
ARP Main Studs with 3/8" steel girdle·
Melling 68HV oil pump

Valvetrain:
Competition Cam Extreme Engergy #35-518-8: 274 int/280 ex @.555, 224/[email protected] Max. Lift: .555" in./.565" ex., 112 deg. lobe seperation.

Competition Cam Roller Lifters #851-16
Competiton Cam Valve Springs #986-16 ( Seat Load 120lbs. @ 1.75", Open Load 280lbs. @ 1.25")
Competition Cam Roller Rocker #1044-16 (1.6 ratio)
Competition Cam Timing Chain and Gear Set
Competition Cam Pushrods (TBD)·
Ford Racing "Polished" Aluminum Valve Covers #M6582-E202P

Intake:
Ford Racing 13" chrome air cleaner # M-9600-A302
Holley Street Avenger 670CFM #80670 (Electric Choke, Vac. Secondaries)
Professional Products "Hurricane" Aluminum Intake Manifold (Victor Jr. copy)
Edelbrock Performer RPM #60259: 2.02" In./1.60" Ex., 60cc vol.

Other Components:
MSD Billet Aluminum Distributor w/steel gear #8598
MSD Blaster 2 Coil #8200
Canton Oil Pan #15-630
Canton Oil Pump Pickup #15-61
Canton Oil Dipstick #20-850
ARP HD Oil Pump Shaft #154-7904
Misere Electric Water Pum #WP-311

There are other bits but those are the major ones.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
9,668 Posts
Looks great Herman... really enjoy talkin to you every once in a while about this project. Every time I ask you questions... you always seem to hyped up about this. And that body and chassis is going to look really nice with an engine like the one above gets in it.

Cant wait to see the finished product.

Steve
 

·
1st Gear
Joined
·
17,568 Posts
Awesome Herman....let me ask you this.....how the hell do you know what you are doing ? Were you ever a mechanic? Experiance?

Are you just going by the book?

The reason Im asking is because I would love to do a similar project one day....but my experiance (working with engines) is rather limited.

Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
521 Posts
Herm, nice combo...Please chase all of those thread holes. You'll be happy you did. :thumbup:

It seems like a tiny bit too much cam. The duration looks good, but thats alot of lift. :suspicio: With that Victor Jr, and that cam, this thing is gonna rev to the high heavens!
What gears are you gonna be running? And what do those Edelbrocks flow straight out of the box?
I'm sure you've already done this. But if you haven't, get on the phone w/ Comp Cams and Lunati and Crower and Crane and Summit and Jegs. :lol: They all have great cam tech lines, and if the majority of them suggest a similar cam grind for your combo, then you are good to go.

Like I said, great combo buddy. Glad to see your dreams happening... :thumbup:

BTW, your combo would take a nice 150 shot, no problem...The cam almost looks like a N20 cam.... :eek: :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,564 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, DECADES ago, as a teen, I took Autoshop in High School; built my first hemi but it really wasn't much of a feat since all he had us do was tear down only the cylinder heads and put them back together and slap them back on. I guess we must of got a rough timing set because it did fire up on the first shot! We were like the first or second team to get the engines going (we had 5 teams of 4 people or so).

From then on, I sort of knew I was mechanically inclinded; tore down a CB550 engine all the way and rebuilt it. It fired up.

For this build, it pretty much looked like a regular engine. The fact I don't deal with FI/Computers/Turbo's is irrelevant. It's still basically an airpump; all engines are airpumps. Just so happens the air it uses get's burned up to create a different kind of air to push the piston down. I've read all the books I need to (i.e. How To Rrebuild Ford Small Block Engines by Tom Monroe, and a typical Chilton's manual.); once you've seen how an engine is put together, just about anyone can build one. The devil is in the details. That's why for example, I didn't buy pushrods. These should be measured to ensure you don't destroy the drivetrain. And the dial indicator is probably the most critical tool in rebuilding. I didn't know that back in highschool and this is where reading books helps so you can basically "blue print" your motor by setting everything to spec.

There's stil a tremendous amount I "don't know", but other people have done this before so I visit my FFCobra.com forum regularly when I come up to something that doesn't make sense or there's no spec for. For example, a simple oil filter adapter (the thing you spin your filter onto). That wasn't part of the short block! Bought one but realized it didn't have a built in nut to torque it into the block. I ended up simply buying a 3/4"-16 nut and with some antiseize, torqued it into the block at 80 ft-lbs. Nut came off nicely and it's done. A "detail" but very necessary and one less thing I have to think about on this block.

Many have suggested you simply buy a junked engine that's basically complete and just begin tearing it down (rent an engine hoist, buy the engine stand), and taking note on a spiral bound, on what went where and special reference marks on various components that require it like the camshaft or crankshaft. Once it's completely apart, you actually know how it's built and to some extent, know how to put it back together. The only special tool for putting it back together will be the ring compressor and probably the vavle spring compressor. (Remember, this is just to familiarize yourself with basic engine part recognition).

I don't know if this really answers the question. But if you have the real desire to try it, then you pretty much KNOW the answer. :)
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top