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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Call me insane, but someone I know, his dad's selling his 1990 Audi Quattro Coupe S2. Engine is a 5cylinder 20v, said to have 164hp stock. Body is in great shape, has a broken passenger side corner lamp, scuffed drivers side rear bumper corner, and there are some scratches on the upper part of the drivers' front wheel arch. Car is located about 2.5-3 hours north from my house, and is not drivable.

The car needs some work, such as a new clutch, flywheel, etc. Window motors, front wheel bearings, and a suspension overhaul would be needed to really have it all inline. Also, the odometer has stopped working and stopped at $135,xxx miles. Its said to have roughly 145k but no idea how long the odo has been broken. I am wondering if its even worth the investment to try and restore this car and make it into the reliable car that I can autocross in.

I did a KBB value on it and it was listed at $2,875.00. Whats everyone think of this car?



Please let me know what you all think.
Steve
 

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Everything but the instrument cluster and the window regulators will be pretty easy/cheap to replace.

There is a place out in California somewhere that rebuilds VW/Audi instrument clusters for what I consider to be fairly reasonable prices, but the window parts will almost certainly be a dealer-only item. And not cheap.
 

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These cars didn't sell very well (less than 2000 total in the US) and neither did the shared-chassis 90, parts availability is not good. It's a classy old coupe but I'd avoid this one unless it's for a big project that won't get driven much - then it's perfect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Macabre said:
These cars didn't sell very well (less than 2000 total in the US) and neither did the shared-chassis 90, parts availability is not good. It's a classy old coupe but I'd avoid this one unless it's for a big project that won't get driven much - then it's perfect.
Thanks Mac - this car would be purely a weekend beater/autocross car. Im really not up to speed on it at all so it would need some true work.

Where I had my clutch done this past weekend, a tech has a light yellow S2, same engine, etc. Pretty nice. This red one would need some tinted tails, and would need the windows tinted. Maybe somenew wheels, or atleast some nice sticky rubbers.

Sharky, do you have the contact info for that speedo repair place? May be a wise thing to call up and see how much it would be to repair, etc.

Thanks, and keep the opinions coming.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Sharky. I guess.... I can look around for a few places. Wheel bearings, drivetrain, and the clutch is something thats most important. This thing may need to be trailered back to the house but I really dont want to do that. I want to make sure its drivable before I plop any money down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I dunno about a Scoobie though, I would prefer to stay with a VAG background since I have some knowledge already. Im not quite ready to venture out to the complete dark side of going to another make, yet.

It will be a heavy car to autocross but Im going to do some research and see what all can be done to this motor to beef it up and get a little more power from it.

Anyone else know of any other forums that I can check other then Vortex for other information about possible mods?

I did find these though on 'tex, pretty nice
Jedi801 @ VWVortex.com said:
I love that car.




Thanks,
Steve
 

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Scuba2001 said:
Call me insane, but someone I know, his dad's selling his 1990 Audi Quattro Coupe S2.

Please let me know what you all think.
Steve
First, you know that that is NOT an S2, right? That's a standard Coupe quattro or Sq. It came with a 20V NA engine, not the 20V turbo of the S2. Very rare and a LOT of people would jump at the chance to buy one cheap. Nice ones that need no work sell for over $6,000. Getting parts isn't very hard, except for the injectors. Here's what I know about them.

Specs on 1990 CQ

*Engine:
2309cc
82.5mm bore
86.4mm stroke
10.0:1 compression (some places in Bentley say 10.3:1, some say 10.0:1)
162hp @ 6000rpm
157 ft-lbs @ 4000 rpm
cast iron block with forged crank, forged rods, cast pistons, and piston-oil-squirters
aluminum head with dual overhead cams, hydraulic lifters, and sodium-filled exhaust valves.
EFI - Hitachi MPI, sequential fuel injection with electronic ignition control - 2 knock sensors, 2 crank reference senders, o2 sensor, TPS, idle switch, MAF, coolant temp, hall sender
early build have an equal-length tube header, late build have a cast iron manifold
progressive twin-plate throttle body - primary venturi 38mm, secondary 52mm

*Drivetrain:
5-speed manual transmission, series 01A
final drive 4.111:1
1st 3.55:1
2nd 2.10:1
3rd 1.430:1
4th 1.034:1
5th 0.840:1
reverse 3.50:1
Max speed (power limited) 136mph
front differential: open
center differential: TorSen torque-biasing differential
rear: open, manually lockable up to 15mph when it automatically disengages
bolt pattern 4x108mm, stock offset is 37mm
stock wheels are 15x7 and have 205/60VR15 all-season tires
clutch disk is 240mm diameter
hydraulic clutch

*Brakes:
front brakes: vented rotors measuring 10.9" diameter, 1" thick (276x25mm) with twin piston Girling 60 sliding calipers (not found on 90 models until 1993, equivalent piston area equal to a single 60mm piston)
rear brakes are 9.6"x.39" (245x10mm) solid rotors, and girling 38 single piston sliding caliper with emergency brake.
three-channel ABS (front right, front left, rear) with independant wheel speed sensors
25.4mm master cylinder
hydraulic brake assist provided by hydraulic pump (engine accessory)

*Suspension
independant MacPherson struts front and rear
front and rear suspension geometry is virtually identical
early build `90 models have 26mm front sway bar, no rear
late build `90 modelds have 28mm front sway bar and 14mm rear
late model cars have revised sway bar end links which also required a change in brake hoses
early `90 has stamped front and rear control arms
late `90 has forged front control arms with larger diameter bushings. rear remain stamped
factory "sport suspension" equipped on all models (not very sporty)

*Body
double-galvanized steel body panels
unique front and rear bumpers
unique front fog lights
unique front fenders
wider rear fender flares
full-painted trim package including door handles, mirrors, bumpers, etc. lower models did not have everything painted
zebrano wood-trimmed interior
"sport" seats (again, not sporty at all)
aux 3-gauge panel in center console
wood shift knob, leather shift boot
leather-wrapped steering wheel
early build have no airbag and a parcel shelf in the driver's footwell
late build have airbag, no shelf
automatic climate control with A/C
all NA cars have cold weather package - heated seats, mirrors, door locks
power tilt/slide sunroof (a few `91 have a glass moonroof)

And my brain just ran out of facts

As for tuning - chassis and drivetrain-related parts are all the same as 80q/90q from 88-92. There's a lot of parts interchange with even older models, and this front suspension design is basically unchanged since 1981. Engine mods are expensive and net little gains and most people agree the best way to make power is to go forced induction, usually in the form of a motor swap.

Weak points: power window regulators, hydraulic system, injectors. The low-beam headlights are not relayed and the switch can burn out. Otherwise, all standard rules about service history and maintenance apply.

I've been through about every system on my CQ and consider myself an expert on maintenance and repair, with the exception of the engine electronics. Rather than fix my failing electronics and tired tired 20v, I went with a motor swap.

This is a lot of info. I'm done yacking for now but feel free to ask questions because that is what this forum is here for, or check out http://forums.fourtitude.com/zeroforum?id=559 :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yeah, Im aware of it not being an S2 now. A motor swap can solve that though and I think it would be a pretty cool car as a weekend car, or track car. I dont really want to strip it out too much as it is a more rare car, but it would be fun to have a small project.

Most of the info above is the same posted form the Audiworld historic part, great info though.

If I do end up with it, Ill deff let you know if I have any questions.

Steve
 

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Buy it, with a little love that car is a total machine
 

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DO NOT BUY IT unless you have SEVERAL thousand dollars to sink into it, and are ok with not getting any of that $ back when you sell, or if you wreck it and have insurance total it....



i have a 1990 Audi 90 20VQ (same think you want but sean version)

these cars are really difficult to fix, maintain, and live with...


parts are easy to find, but the car and engine have so many downfalls it isnt even worth it.....

the Hitachi injectors and IAC are absolute crap. the car will never run right unless you get rid of the injectors.....and i dont mean new hitachi injectors for $200 EACH


electrical problems are many, and the whole central locking runs off a 600 vacuum pump and lots and lots of decrepid vacuum lines


wheel bearings are easy, suspension is kinda easy, but anything realting to engine and drivability, unless you are some kind of engineer, you will be paying someone lots of money to keep it running.....


the Coupe is heavier than the sedan, and is quite a bit slower too...


if it is for autoX, then i suggest you buy a different car unless you have a 20V turbo standing by with this thing....
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well I told the guy it really wasnt worth the $3500 that they were asking. It would just be too much to get it up and rolling. AND, its about the same weight as a Mk4 GTI which isnt really any better.

Oh well... I'll save up some more over the coming months and get into something smaller maybe. Or, just save up for a brand new Passat, or house, etc within the next year.

Steve
 
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