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HELP! I have a 2004 Passat 1.8t manual sedan and I set the alarm off my opening my trunk about a week ago after that my key fob stopped working my trunk my windows my sunroof and my fuel door don’t open. It’s got low power as soon as I shift to third I have to floor it to get any speed going. My husband thinks it may be in some sort of dummy mode from me not disarming it correctly. None of it bothered me until i started losing power and I figured out I can’t even put fuel in my car cause we can’t figure out the emergency latch on the fuel door so now my car is sitting in my drive way waiting to be driven but I can’t because I refuse to pry my fuel door open. My poor girl is sad, thirsty and alone out there! SOMEONE HELP!!! Btw it’s not the fuse all the fuses are good and fuse box has been tested.
 

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2004 B5.5 Variant 1.8T
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Moved this to the correct forum.

There is no "dummy mode" with the alarm system. There is an immobilizer, but that won't let it run more than a couple seconds.

Did you replace the battery in the keyfob yet? Also, unlock with the key in the door to disarm.

It still can be a fuse. Pull one at a time and visually inspect them. Beyond that, it could be the ignition switch. Before the trunk issue, where there any other things that weren't working? Your statement about "none of that bothered me" makes me think some things not working could be ignored if not needed.

Low power could be a clogged fuel filter or it needs some maintenance. How well is this car maintained?

The fuel door has an emergency release. Open the passenger side compartment in the trunk and you'll notice some thinner wiring when looking in there towards the front of the car. Follow it to the fuel door actuator. There should be a thin cable attached to the actuator that you can pull to release the fuel door.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Moved this to the correct forum.

There is no "dummy mode" with the alarm system. There is an immobilizer, but that won't let it run more than a couple seconds.

Did you replace the battery in the keyfob yet? Also, unlock with the key in the door to disarm.

It still can be a fuse. Pull one at a time and visually inspect them. Beyond that, it could be the ignition switch. Before the trunk issue, where there any other things that weren't working? Your statement about "none of that bothered me" makes me think some things not working could be ignored if not needed.

Low power could be a clogged fuel filter or it needs some maintenance. How well is this car maintained?

The fuel door has an emergency release. Open the passenger side compartment in the trunk and you'll notice some thinner wiring when looking in there towards the front of the car. Follow it to the fuel door actuator. There should be a thin cable attached to the actuator that you can pull to release the fuel door.
We noticed it all in the same day, except the fuel door cause I havent needed gas. I’ve been using my key to manually lock and unlock the car. The cars been maintained very well I’ve only had it and drove it 2,000 miles bought it from a shop that got it from a girl who had regular maintenance done on the car then the timing belt broke. He showed me all records of the maintenance he had done before he got the car, he did all the top end work and replaced the head gasket and water pump as well. I bought a battery for my key fob but haven’t put it in yet since nothing been working. My husband has already pulled every single fuse 1 by 1 and replaced two that were bad but still have no changes. #14 is the fuse that actually goes to every thing that I’ve listed he even tested the fuse box as well.
 

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Fuse 14 does power the comfort system (CCM, comfort control module) as well as the fuel door release. You replaced it, but did it blow again? If so, what makes it blow, or does it blow right away? Note there are small holes on the back of the fuses--a pointy meter probe will fit there to measure voltage.

You said two fuses were replaced--which two? #14 & ?

Nothing you mention should affect engine performance (unless she's really thirsty). Do you have a check engine light or similar?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Fuse 14 does power the comfort system (CCM, comfort control module) as well as the fuel door release. You replaced it, but did it blow again? If so, what makes it blow, or does it blow right away? Note there are small holes on the back of the fuses--a pointy meter probe will fit there to measure voltage.

You said two fuses were replaced--which two? #14 & ?

Nothing you mention should affect engine performance (unless she's really thirsty). Do you have a check engine light or similar?
No check engine light and 14 was never blown two other ones were blown so we replaced them and they’re still in working order. I did get the fuel door open today and put premium fuel and a treatment in it and drove it a long ways and it’s better. Someone mentioned the ccm being bad. I’m going to check that next. But when I was on my drive my turn signals and running lights quit working.
 

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Darn! how come I never had noticed this till now?!!! :oops::oops::oops:
Did not know about it either, but member "Cuppie" directed me that the little openings are/can be used to interpret/measure parasitic draw. Super helpful as pulling the fuses often puts the car in an "awake" mode contaminating any parasitic draw results you might have measured.
 

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Did not know about it either, but member "Cuppie" directed me that the little openings are/can be used to interpret/measure parasitic draw. Super helpful as pulling the fuses often puts the car in an "awake" mode contaminating any parasitic draw results you might have measured.
This is just more convenient. Not like you can't do without. I always did my tests with the fuse out. But this is yet another way to quickly do the test.
 

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2004 B5.5 Variant 1.8T
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Did not know about it either, but member "Cuppie" directed me that the little openings are/can be used to interpret/measure parasitic draw. Super helpful as pulling the fuses often puts the car in an "awake" mode contaminating any parasitic draw results you might have measured.
Really? Shoot, I've been testing fuses that way for 25 years. I did cut my teeth in mobile electronics, though.
 

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I always just tested fuses in the field with multimeter/ohm set up a simple continuity test, But I had a parasitic draw, so I hooked up ammeter in series at battery......IIRC it was like 8 or 9 milliamps so I came back 10 minutes later and was like 2 ma. Started the pull fuse routine, I probably should have been more methodical, and sometimes I was seeing 8-9ma sometimes not, confused as hell. It was then pointed out to me that each time I would unhook the battery it would awaken system, if you waited it would go to sleep. Things like hood open, door(s) open can effect readings as well as pulling some fuses like the CCM's fuse etc. Weird ,wild,stuff.
 

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Oh that part, no. I thought you meant the testing continuity or voltage between the openings on the top of the fuses you didn't know about.
 
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