[muttony]

I found this kit for control arms. Mine are squeaking which must mean forseeable demise.

I have a stock standard 2000 V6 ATQ fwd manual. I've taken the spindle apart before to replace the shocks.

http://www.amazon.com/URO-Parts-8D0...d=1462061651&sr=8-3&keywords=control+arms+kit

Some of comments indicate that ball joints don't fit but I think they are talking about for an Audi A6. If anyone has used this kit or know please let me know.

 

[boyesreef]

Control Arm Kit - 8D0 498 998

on the website it has it listed.

i also have a 2000 V6 AQT manual, mine is a wagon!

 

[sirwired]

FCP Euro has inexpensive and well-regarded CA kits. (Get the one with upgraded outer TRE's) They won't necessarily last as long as OEM, but they aren't bad, and are lifetime warranted.

 

[Electron Man]

URO parts....

...only if you'll be selling the car within 4-6 months and doing the work yourself and don't plan on taking any long trips between now and the time the car is sold. Nah, they're probably not quite that bad, yet I woudn't pay to have these installed. :nervous:

Good Luck

 

[scotts13]

Frankly, the price alone would scare me off.

 

[AndreasPassat]

^^ X2
The price sounds attractive but you'll be buying more parts within a short amount of time.
ECS Tuning has Febi / Bilstein kits for a COMPLETE overhaul of the front end for $500. I have this kit installed on 2 of my Passat's and many others for other people. With the Febi kit I have only seen one upper control arm fail in less than a 3 year period.
$500 sounds like a lot but this kit has every piece needed and comes with all new hardware. Now consider this, if you buy a single lower control arm that's Genuine Audi / VW that will set you back at least $250.
FCP Euro has some kits that are around the $300 price point for the Vaico kit. They have a lifetime warranty.

You need to be aware that there was a change on the lower control arms. The size of the tapered pin that fits in the lower part of the spindle knuckle is different on some cars. Make sure you check your VIN# to make sure you have the correct ones. Also, some kits were being shipped that had the wrong size nut to secure the lower control arms to the spindle knuckle.
Some of the knuckles have a tapered sleeve in them, when assembled the lower control arm may seem like its secure, the kits with the wrong nuts will tighten the lower control arm to the tapered pin but not actually hold the tapered pin securely to the knuckle. Hence the lower control can separate from the knuckle while driving.
Can't remember who, but that actually happened to the wife of a member here.

 

[AndreasPassat]

Matter of fact, I'm doing a complete front end refresh on my wife's Passat this week.
I'll post pictures of the winded post I wrote above showing the differences and changes made.

 

[RobG-ADV]

I'm going to do the control arm kit on mine too, but I'll go with the $500 kit from ECS because I want 'em to last.

 

[muttony]

I ordered the fcp ones.

 

[AndreasPassat]

I thought I had one of the lower control arms from my 98 Passat showing the difference in taper size, but I don't.

But here is a comparison between a Genuine Audi / VW lower control and an FCP Euro lower control arm. Notice the obvious difference in nut size that holds the control arm onto the spindle knuckle.

 

[ecell]

TRW is the way to go (there's a kit on FCP). My OEM (or dealer replacement, VAG branded) was actually TRW and not Lem, I was a little surprised.

 

[muttony]

I'm shocked. I ordered the FCP control arm kit yesterday and it arrived today with free economy shipping! I guess I can do the control arms by the end of the weekend.

New thread for my questions.

 

[B5 Money Pit]

I think it was 2004 when the spindle changed to aluminum that they went to lower arms with a different size ball stud taper because of the metal sleeve they used between the aluminum spindle and the ball stud. Anyway, if you've got steel spindles, you won't have that extra sleeve, and the taper will be thicker at the top. My 02 (2001.5) GLS did not have that metal sleeve in the spindle. And the kit I used was MTC 4616, (also Amazon, at the time under $160) it had the correct size flanged nuts for the lower ball joints. 3 months on, and no quality concerns to report.

 

[VAGguy]

The only b55 Passat that had aluminum spindles was the W8 model. All other B5 4 cylinder or V6 or diesel had cast iron. The difference in the taper of the front lower control arm happened around 2002 or 2003 . There is an insert in that lower part of the spindle that has a different taper.

 

[valis]

^^ X2
The price sounds attractive but you'll be buying more parts within a short amount of time.
ECS Tuning has Febi / Bilstein kits for a COMPLETE overhaul of the front end for $500. I have this kit installed on 2 of my Passat's and many others for other people. With the Febi kit I have only seen one upper control arm fail in less than a 3 year period.
$500 sounds like a lot but this kit has every piece needed and comes with all new hardware. Now consider this, if you buy a single lower control arm that's Genuine Audi / VW that will set you back at least $250.
FCP Euro has some kits that are around the $300 price point for the Vaico kit. They have a lifetime warranty.

You need to be aware that there was a change on the lower control arms. The size of the tapered pin that fits in the lower part of the spindle knuckle is different on some cars. Make sure you check your VIN# to make sure you have the correct ones. Also, some kits were being shipped that had the wrong size nut to secure the lower control arms to the spindle knuckle.
Some of the knuckles have a tapered sleeve in them, when assembled the lower control arm may seem like its secure, the kits with the wrong nuts will tighten the lower control arm to the tapered pin but not actually hold the tapered pin securely to the knuckle. Hence the lower control can separate from the knuckle while driving.
Can't remember who, but that actually happened to the wife of a member here.

FB is(UTB) a trusted OEM, got a complete set for ~500, 4 years ago and the ride was excellent. However, i've been hearing from some mechanics that FB has now moved it's operations and now stamped by China ...... QUALITY spiraling downward?! I suspect my complete FB CA kit has around ~30-40K miles on them. Personally, I believe the longevity of these to be quite low for OEM with a 1Y warranty. Stock CA last nearly 100K+ CMIIW.

Haven't checked if mine were MIC stamped. Though started to hear front end creaking around Y2013, roughly a year after I purchased and installed them. Fast forward to today and it's even more noticeable, one of the UCA can be moved by hand in extreme heat/humidity and creaks, the creaking is multiplied x10 when driving. Also noticed that both UCA bushings are beginning to crack. So, not sure if I should replace the one or both UCA.

 

[AndreasPassat]

valis,
For whatever it's worth. As long as you're up inside there I would just replace both UCA's.
I would do it just for peace of mind knowing that both UCA's are in the same condition. But that's just me.

 

[wmj259]

valis,
For whatever it's worth. As long as you're up inside there I would just replace both UCA's.
I would do it just for peace of mind knowing that both UCA's are in the same condition. But that's just me.

That is a good point. Isn't it mandatory to do a wheel alignment after and control arm replacement? If it is then change both and save the $100 or so bucks on wheel alignments. Please the piece and mind on not having to open the wheel up again if the other arm goes bad.

 

[AndreasPassat]

Isn't it mandatory to do a wheel alignment after and control arm replacement?

The proper answer would be yes. I have however replaced upper control arms and gone about my business. It is my opinion that if you don't remove the lower controls from the sub-frame of the car, and or don't loosen the nut that allows for adjustment on the tie rod ends, everything should go back together the way it came out.
Here is my methodology behind this thinking:
Upper control arms have no adjustment (at least OEM ones).
All other attachment points are either tapered pin or straight pin with fairly precision locating. Which includes the upper control arms, both lower control arms at the bottom of the knuckle, and tie rod ends.
If you don't adjust the tie rod ends the toe in / toe out adjustment should remain the same.
If you don't loosen the lower control arms at the sub-frame then those never change position.
Camber and caster are essentially built into the OEM suspension leaving only toe in / toe out adjustment, which is adjusted only by the tie rods.
My '98 GLS (my daily driver) has had the steering / spindle knuckles completely removed from the car since I originally installed a complete refresh of Febi / Bilstein front suspension components.
I replaced both my CV axles and re-assembled everything and went down the road. That was 2 years ago, and my front tire wear is pretty damn even.

However, if the car at some point had a front end alignment done with worn components, either to bring it back into spec or for whatever reason(s) then all bets are off.
Then I would most certainly take it in to make sure everything is aligned properly.

 

[sipes216]

andreas is correct here.

an alignment is always good because chances are, you never got around to it anyways

the bushings in the lower arms are clocked in at a certain position to have a neutral affect on the car's camber/caster setup.

on the upper arms, they need to be secured/tightened at the "neutral resting position" that the suspension will most commonly sit at. you don't want them just bolted and tightened down to the position they "bolt in" at, while the wheel's off and up on stands. that will actually twist their inner bushings anywhere from 10-30 degree out of normal, causing increased wear rate.

the bottoms have the same theory as well. tighten them to the same angle they came out, or if you lower, find the suspension resting point, and fasten them there.

screw the workbook angle approach, too much work for the same affect

 

[AndreasPassat]

Blimey, no sooner do I taught about my success with Febi kits, I hit a sewer drain that was probably 6 inches below the rest of the road yesterday. Construction :banghead:
Now when I turn the wheel all the way left the right wheel skips on the ground. Something isn't right. Pretty sure one of the lower control arms let loose on that big hit.