it can start getting slack in it before the bushing fails, James. tie rods aren't that hard to do...get the Meyle heavy duty ones.
Why (tie rod replacement)
Went and got my car inspected over the weekend and the guy says I need a new tie rod. They passed me, but showed me a "wiggle" when he moves the wheel back and forth.
I've heard of replacing tie rod ends due to bushing failure, but the bushing looks fine. It's almost as if there's "slack".
He passed me 'cause it's not dangerous "yet".
God, I'm tired of the $$ going into this damn thing.:banghead:
I've heard of replacing tie rod ends due to bushing failure, but the bushing looks fine. It's almost as if there's "slack".
He passed me 'cause it's not dangerous "yet".
God, I'm tired of the $$ going into this damn thing.:banghead:
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I checked 1stvwparts and they sell them as three seperate parts; the end, the rie rod itself and the boot. Talk about a pita.
Is this what would cause the clunk clunk clunk with my wheels turned all the way to one side at slow speeds? Or is that my known and obvious need of a pass. side raxle?
Is this what would cause the clunk clunk clunk with my wheels turned all the way to one side at slow speeds? Or is that my known and obvious need of a pass. side raxle?
when a tie-rod is starting to fail, there is little evidence.
the clunking at low speeds is your CV joint.
the clunking at low speeds is your CV joint.
R36: The good news is that tie rod ends are what usually fails first and they can go for quite a while before really needing replacement. Telltale sign is a nasty groaning/whining when turning at low speeds. If there was substantial play in the tire/wheel when lifted, though, that could really point to control arms.
In a nutshell, over the first 5-8 years and 80k-100k miles of this car, you can all but plan on needing new tie rod ends, new control arms, and possibly a new CV joint or two (though this is usually only an issue if you let a torn boot go for too long...I had a torn one for 6 months or more, but the joint was still fine)
In a nutshell, over the first 5-8 years and 80k-100k miles of this car, you can all but plan on needing new tie rod ends, new control arms, and possibly a new CV joint or two (though this is usually only an issue if you let a torn boot go for too long...I had a torn one for 6 months or more, but the joint was still fine)
My pass side boot has been crapped out for about 4 months. Replaced the driver side with a Raxle. Yeah, I know I need to replace it. The car was on a lift and it had a little bit of play from the passenger side. Weird thing was that I noticed the "clunk" after I replace the driver side (knowing I still needed to do the pass side), but it's only when the wheel is turned hard to the right at slow speeds, i.e., backing out or pulling in a parking space.
Jay: This what you're talking about? http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=L5B2010%2DI
Jay: This what you're talking about? http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=L5B2010%2DI
chances are you just need these:
http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=L5A2006-H
http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=L5A2006-H
....and if and when I do that, a re-alignment is necessary, right?
(sorry, never had to deal with tie-rods before)
(sorry, never had to deal with tie-rods before)
yep. you can get it close, but it is a good idea to put it on a rack after. look for a place that has a Hunter Rack.
James...whatever you do...DO NOT take it to a dealer for the TRE's......I learned that $1700 lesson the hard way. You probably already know that Curry's is your best shot...
They already ran through my head. Probably get the raxle and the t/r end and bring them both to them.James...whatever you do...DO NOT take it to a dealer for the TRE's......I learned that $1700 lesson the hard way. You probably already know that Curry's is your best shot...
Yeah....just a "tad" too hard to do at a GTG :biglaugh:
Oh come on! We'll just prop up the front end on a picnic table!Yeah....just a "tad" too hard to do at a GTG :biglaugh:
Between that and Ryan getting "another" ticket from the park ranger, I'm sure they'll want us back next year!:biglaugh:
If they only didn't have that damn speed bump half way down, it'd be a nice road to "test" your car out on.
Buy the Meyle heavy duty TREs from ECS Tuning if you don't want to have to deal with them again.
or blauparts.
on a related note, I just noticed that the driver's side tierod end that I replaced this past fall is shot. dammit.
on a related note, I just noticed that the driver's side tierod end that I replaced this past fall is shot. dammit.
I'd do the S4 tie-rod ends and S4 UCAs...heck, I think the LCAs from an S4 fit too. Just a thought...
Or ebay. Just as long as they're Meyle HD versions in original boxes, not a knockoff.
Do you know what caused this failure so soon?or blauparts.
on a related note, I just noticed that the driver's side tierod end that I replaced this past fall is shot. dammit.
i believe the B5.5s already have an upgraded version that looks just like the Meyle ones with the tiny blue strip at the bottom. b5s dont. Is your car a b5 and this happened? could be the new one will last longer.it can start getting slack in it before the bushing fails, James. tie rods aren't that hard to do...get the Meyle heavy duty ones.
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