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Where exactly is the PCV valve located in a 2002 1.8T AWM? Specifically!

28K views 73 replies 9 participants last post by  axenstar 
#1 · (Edited)
I have watched many videos on YouTube and read many posts on this forum and vortex. No matter what, I am simply not able to locate the PCV valve. This is so darn frustrating to me.:banghead:

Could someone very specifically mention where exactly the PCV valve sits in a AWM engine (1.8T 2002 B5.5).
Thanks.
 
#3 ·
Locate the intake casting. It's one piece, then branches off in to four parts, one per cylinder.
The PCV valve is around 4 inches below the rear-most branch. It essentially hangs in the air--one end is in a tee, the other end connects to the hose that connects to the rear of the cam cover.
I tried to see it but couldn't. How do you access it if it's below the rear-most branch?
 
#4 ·
Lift the coolant tank (unplug electrical connector, leave hoses connected, as you probably know). If your hands aren't too big you can get to it, but beware of other brittle stuff down there (e.g. vacuum lines).

I changed my PCV and the associated hoses without removing the intake, but it was a chore. Biggest caution: frontwards of the tee where PCV valve connects is an elbow down to the engine. That piece will be very brittle, and the pieces want to fall in to the engine (!). It's held in with a very reluctant clip. Don't remove it if you don't have to.

I installed an 034 Motorsport silicone hose & billet aluminum PCV kit, which replaced all the above parts, so I undid all the PCV valve clamps after it was out of the car. But then I spent the next two hours fighting with the above mentioned elbow and picking parts of it out of the engine (and praying I didn't miss any).
 
#5 ·
Lift the coolant tank (unplug electrical connector, leave hoses connected, as you probably know). If your hands aren't too big you can get to it, but beware of other brittle stuff down there (e.g. vacuum lines). I changed my PCV and the associated hoses without removing the intake, but it was a chore. Biggest caution: frontwards of the tee where PCV valve connects is an elbow down to the engine. That piece will be very brittle, and the pieces want to fall in to the engine (!). It's held in with a very reluctant clip. Don't remove it if you don't have to.
I installed an 034 Motorsport silicone hose & billet aluminum PCV kit, which replaced all the above parts, so I undid all the PCV valve clamps after it was out of the car. But then I spent the next two hours fighting with the above mentioned elbow and picking parts of it out of the engine (and praying I didn't miss any).
The way you describe it seems to me a crappy job to do (as usual! :rolleyes:). I only have the valve but now I get scared that may be the attached T or hoses get ripped during removal. So I don't know if I should order those as well. The valve is factory original and never was replaced. The engine suffers serious lack of power and I'm thinking may be that's because of a defective PCV valve. So I decided to replace it after 18 years but didn't know what kind of ordeal I might deal with. So far a kudo for the German engineering :crazy:
 
#6 ·
there are two "PCV" valves by name(will explain later as cramped for time) ,but the one you are looking for is a Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve, it is located as previously described under the rear most intake manifold runner and to the rear of the oil filter housing, it is inserted "flush" to the two hoses connected to it (vertical orientation) it will be hard to see as only the middle of it can be seen, about 1/4" of it. The failure usually is not so much in the hoses (they do split) but there is a plastic (metal interior reenforced) elbow that is "clipped" to the block that from your maintenance description has probably cracked or went south completely, they are inexpensive to replace while you are there ,care needs to be taken to not let the crap get into your oil pan, difficulty of job I give an honest 2 just because of limited access. as a reference and of the check valves ( the PCV valve is just a big one) all free flow should go towards intake manifold or engine
 
#7 ·
Thanks Chief. So you're saying that I need to buy the elbow (S-shaped) hose too? I think based on your description that it is wise to do so because if I start with this and that hose cracks then everything will be ruined. I should take no risk here. :thumbup: (P.S. what's the part number for that?)
 
#8 ·
My younger son and I did mine (2001 AUG 1.8T) several months ago. We left the intake manifold intact, but the job was a bit challenging. I had started the job earlier and quickly concluded that I should abort, buy new elbow and T fittings, and then not have to worry about damaging the old ones. I bought the whole kit and confirmed that being able to destroy the old hoses and plastic fittings made the job go much faster.
 
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#9 ·
Yes I have to the conclusion that it's the best way to do this. It costs a bit more but it's more secure. I'm going to order the hoses and wait a couple of weeks so the weather is a bit warmer. It's no fun to work on the car in open air in this cold condition.
 
#11 ·
I've done the "PCV" a few times. The proper name for that valve is the "bleeder valve". Bad valve symptoms are usually misfires due to a vac leak or loss of boost pressure. The stopper in the bleeder valve (one-way valve) can become off center and allow air through when boost rises under a load.


#6 or 6a depending on the year. 2003+ got 6A
Diagram Line Auto part

You'll want to replace #2, #5, #10 and of course, the bleeder valve at least. That L-shaped tube at the far right that leads up to the back of the valve cover is metal. Just run some cleaner and a brush through it.

It's not a hard job if you have EVERYTHING on hand. Don't plan on trying to save any of it. Not worth it. Cleanest way ids to remove it all, including the metal tube and install the 034 kit. The metal tube can be a PAIN to remove. It is bolted to the firewall and has a couple of wires clipped to it.
 
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#12 ·
Bad valve symptoms are usually misfires due to a vac leak or loss of boost pressure.
I certainly do have the loss of boost pressure. The engine struggles especially when it's cold.

You'll want to replace #2, #5, #10 and of course, the bleeder valve at least.
What are the names (part numbers) for #2 and #10. I already have the bleeder valve. So need to order the other two hoses only.

That L-shaped tube at the far right that leads up to the back of the valve cover is metal. Just run some cleaner and a brush through it.
Yes I can clean up the inside of it with some cleaner.

The metal tube can be a PAIN to remove. It is bolted to the firewall and has a couple of wires clipped to it.
I have noticed it. But what is actually easy on these cars? :rolleyes:
 
#13 ·
I wouldn’t remove the metal tube unless you are replacing it all with the 034 kit. Leave it in place if just cleaning.


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#15 ·
Here ya go with part numbers. I know I have a new "T" hose (5), upper Y hose at the valve cover (13) and possibly even the Bleeder valve (6A) laying around I can make you a deal on. Whatever you do, DO NOT buy an aftermarket breather tube #2. They just don't fit right into the metal bracket or at all. I bought all that before deciding on just getting the 034 kit after effing around with an aftermarket #2 breather tube.
Text White Line Font Diagram

2) 06A 103 213 F breather tube
5) 06A 103 247 valve housing
6A) 06B 103 245 bleeder valve
13) 06B 103 221 F breather hose
 
#16 ·
Here ya go with part numbers. I know I have a new "T" hose (5), upper Y hose at the valve cover (13) and possibly even the Bleeder valve (6A) laying around I can make you a deal on. Whatever you do, DO NOT buy an aftermarket breather tube #2. They just don't fit right into the metal bracket or at all. I bought all that before deciding on just getting the 034 kit after effing around with an aftermarket #2 breather tube.
View attachment 89581
2) 06A 103 213 F breather tube
5) 06A 103 247 valve housing
6A) 06B 103 245 bleeder valve
13) 06B 103 221 F breather hose

Thanks for the part numbers. I already have the bleeder valve (6A). I have also recently removed and cleaned the Y hose (#13). So I'm in need of the T hose and #10 hose (I say #10 per your earlier post).
 
#17 ·
Which bleeder valve did you get? 6A is not the correct bleeder valve for a 2002 AWM. You need #6, which is 035 103 245 A . You may also need a suction jet pump (058133753B), it clogs easily.

Your breather system should look like this instead of the 2003+ image above.


Also, I would go ahead and remove the intake manifold, It's not hard at all. Makes everything so much easier.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Woodward is correct. I didn't have the early AWM/AUG breather pic to attach. Even if you got a 6A by mistake, you can always just put a vacuum cap on the side port of it.

You don't really need #10 hose up to the intake manifold if it's not torn or abraded. The SJP is a good idea if you've never replaced it. Just waiting for mine to split or clog @172k

I don't know why my pics are so tiny when they upload.....
 
#21 ·
You don't really need #10 hose up to the intake manifold if it's not torn or abraded.
After watching a few videos, I think I'm comfortable to remove the intake manifold. This way, I will have plenty of room to chnage these suckers and not breaking (hopefully!) anything. This will also let me to take the fuel injectors out and clean them (for the first time after 18 years!).

The SJP is a good idea if you've never replaced it.
I recall a few years back I did replace a 3-way valve. I think that was SJP if I'm not mistaken.

I don't know why my pics are so tiny when they upload.....
That's because the pixel sizes of your pics are too big. Open them in "Paint"and resize them by percentage. For instance, open the pic and resize it to the 20% of its original size. Save and upload. That should correct the issue.
 
#26 ·

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#28 ·
There is an O-ring at both ends of the injector. If just pulling the rail in one piece, then you just need the bottom ones for the manifold. At least you’d have the rest if something went wrong or you decide to do the o-rings at the fuel rail end of the injector.


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#29 ·
There is an O-ring at both ends of the injector. If just pulling the rail in one piece, then you just need the bottom ones for the manifold. At least you’d have the rest if something went wrong or you decide to do the o-rings at the fuel rail end of the injector.
Good point! Actually I want to to completely take out the injectors and clean them througly. They've been sitting there for 18 years now and I'm sure they need a major clean up. No wonder engine doesn't have any power. So, I'll get the 8 ring packet from Autozone because that's the cheapest I found. Even on eBay they were more expensive. Yesterday we have a big snow burst. It's freezing so I need to wait a few days to get a better weather.
 
#30 · (Edited)
Cleaned the injectors and replaced their o-rings. Didn't notice much difference in power or fuel economy. But it was a cheap and relatively easy thing to do so I'm not disappointed.

While at work, believe it or not :p, after nearly 8 years I finally found the damned bleeder valve. It was too late and rain started so I just quit. But my next move it to attack the valve. I saw two one-time clippers which I'm sure will be tough and frustrating to remove. But, hey, after 18 years on top of her I'm scared of nothing no more.

Bad News: I'm not sure but I think the oil cooler is leaking. I had cleaned the area underneath of it a few days ago and today I saw a spat of oil there again. If that's true I think I will mourn for 7 days. I don't think changing that gasket would be straight forward.
 
#31 ·
#33 ·
Today I discovered that I've never changed the PCV valve in my car. That big 3-way plastic valve it is. May be that's the reason for lack of power. Is there any test to see if the valve is alive? I think I'm gonna order it anyway.
 
#36 ·
The suction jet pump isn't the PCV valve but I've used a 'kit' from Amazon that included a few check valves, the SJP, hoses and clamps, etc. The valves look good but I'm less certain about the quality of the hose. Still, it should last long enough and since there is such a mess of connections back there that it is a lot easier to just replace the lot than try to disconnect and replace the SJP by itself.

Be careful when installing it since there will be lots of brittle plastic bits holding hoses down and other connections that can break if stressed.
 
#37 ·
The suction jet pump isn't the PCV valve
So the mystry still carries on as what exactly is the PCV valve :D

Be careful when installing it since there will be lots of brittle plastic bits holding hoses down and other connections that can break if stressed.
With all those one-time clamps out there I think I am gonna have a hard time removing things easily. But as you suggested will be careful as much as needed. Worst case I'll use zip ties if those plastic bits break.
 
#40 ·
The little valve on the right of the clamps is the actual Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve. The pancake valve is also part of the PCV system and probably should be changed. Depending on the year, it's either near the back of the valve cover or on the turbo intake hose, to the right of the airbox.

The suction jet pump uses a venturi effect to increase vacuum to the power brakes. Here is a great writeup on it: https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthr...uction-jet-pump-what-it-does-and-how-it-works
 
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#41 ·
The suction jet pump uses a venturi effect to increase vacuum to the power brakes.
I'm almost sure SJP is shot because it's been for a long time that my brakes are soft and not as they should be.
If replacing SJP doesn't correct the lack of power for brakes then I'm thinking to replace the master cylinder which by itself is yet another journey to hell.
 
#43 ·
I only replaced the SJP along with the hoses attached to it, basically the pile-o-parts on the left side in your picture.

If you are planning to replace everything in the picture I'd plan on taking off the air intake and get the gaskets for that as well before starting.
 
#45 ·
I deleted the SJP on my car when it started leaking, no difference in braking, but the idle was smoother once the vacuum leak was fixed. The engine looks better without the extra hoses.
 
#51 · (Edited)
I have been trying to replace the PCV valves and tubes today. I was able to remove everything except one of clamps attached to the T connector hose. Spent hours and finally got so tried that had to give up for today. Even removed the manifold but still was not able to remove that damn one-time clamp.
The major issue that the overlap point is behind and I cannot turn it toward me to pry it off.

Anyone has any creative idea or tip as how I should proceed with this? :banghead:
 
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