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in dire need of an organic chemistry lesson
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have watched many videos on YouTube and read many posts on this forum and vortex. No matter what, I am simply not able to locate the PCV valve. This is so darn frustrating to me.:banghead:

Could someone very specifically mention where exactly the PCV valve sits in a AWM engine (1.8T 2002 B5.5).
Thanks.
 

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Locate the intake casting. It's one piece, then branches off in to four parts, one per cylinder.

The PCV valve is around 4 inches below the rear-most branch. It essentially hangs in the air--one end is in a tee, the other end connects to the hose that connects to the rear of the cam cover.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Locate the intake casting. It's one piece, then branches off in to four parts, one per cylinder.
The PCV valve is around 4 inches below the rear-most branch. It essentially hangs in the air--one end is in a tee, the other end connects to the hose that connects to the rear of the cam cover.
I tried to see it but couldn't. How do you access it if it's below the rear-most branch?
 

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Lift the coolant tank (unplug electrical connector, leave hoses connected, as you probably know). If your hands aren't too big you can get to it, but beware of other brittle stuff down there (e.g. vacuum lines).

I changed my PCV and the associated hoses without removing the intake, but it was a chore. Biggest caution: frontwards of the tee where PCV valve connects is an elbow down to the engine. That piece will be very brittle, and the pieces want to fall in to the engine (!). It's held in with a very reluctant clip. Don't remove it if you don't have to.

I installed an 034 Motorsport silicone hose & billet aluminum PCV kit, which replaced all the above parts, so I undid all the PCV valve clamps after it was out of the car. But then I spent the next two hours fighting with the above mentioned elbow and picking parts of it out of the engine (and praying I didn't miss any).
 

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in dire need of an organic chemistry lesson
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Lift the coolant tank (unplug electrical connector, leave hoses connected, as you probably know). If your hands aren't too big you can get to it, but beware of other brittle stuff down there (e.g. vacuum lines). I changed my PCV and the associated hoses without removing the intake, but it was a chore. Biggest caution: frontwards of the tee where PCV valve connects is an elbow down to the engine. That piece will be very brittle, and the pieces want to fall in to the engine (!). It's held in with a very reluctant clip. Don't remove it if you don't have to.
I installed an 034 Motorsport silicone hose & billet aluminum PCV kit, which replaced all the above parts, so I undid all the PCV valve clamps after it was out of the car. But then I spent the next two hours fighting with the above mentioned elbow and picking parts of it out of the engine (and praying I didn't miss any).
The way you describe it seems to me a crappy job to do (as usual! :rolleyes:). I only have the valve but now I get scared that may be the attached T or hoses get ripped during removal. So I don't know if I should order those as well. The valve is factory original and never was replaced. The engine suffers serious lack of power and I'm thinking may be that's because of a defective PCV valve. So I decided to replace it after 18 years but didn't know what kind of ordeal I might deal with. So far a kudo for the German engineering :crazy:
 

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there are two "PCV" valves by name(will explain later as cramped for time) ,but the one you are looking for is a Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve, it is located as previously described under the rear most intake manifold runner and to the rear of the oil filter housing, it is inserted "flush" to the two hoses connected to it (vertical orientation) it will be hard to see as only the middle of it can be seen, about 1/4" of it. The failure usually is not so much in the hoses (they do split) but there is a plastic (metal interior reenforced) elbow that is "clipped" to the block that from your maintenance description has probably cracked or went south completely, they are inexpensive to replace while you are there ,care needs to be taken to not let the crap get into your oil pan, difficulty of job I give an honest 2 just because of limited access. as a reference and of the check valves ( the PCV valve is just a big one) all free flow should go towards intake manifold or engine
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
there are two "PCV" valves by name(will explain later as cramped for time) ,but the one you are looking for is a Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve, it is located as previously described under the rear most intake manifold runner and to the rear of the oil filter housing, it is inserted "flush" to the two hoses connected to it (vertical orientation) it will be hard to see as only the middle of it can be seen, about 1/4" of it. The failure usually is not so much in the hoses (they do split) but there is a plastic (metal interior reenforced) elbow that is "clipped" to the block that from your maintenance description has probably cracked or went south completely, they are inexpensive to replace while you are there ,care needs to be taken to not let the crap get into your oil pan, difficulty of job I give an honest 2 just because of limited access. as a reference and of the check valves ( the PCV valve is just a big one) all free flow should go towards intake manifold or engine
Thanks Chief. So you're saying that I need to buy the elbow (S-shaped) hose too? I think based on your description that it is wise to do so because if I start with this and that hose cracks then everything will be ruined. I should take no risk here. :thumbup: (P.S. what's the part number for that?)
 

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My younger son and I did mine (2001 AUG 1.8T) several months ago. We left the intake manifold intact, but the job was a bit challenging. I had started the job earlier and quickly concluded that I should abort, buy new elbow and T fittings, and then not have to worry about damaging the old ones. I bought the whole kit and confirmed that being able to destroy the old hoses and plastic fittings made the job go much faster.
 
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in dire need of an organic chemistry lesson
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My younger son and I did mine (2001 AUG 1.8T) several months ago. We left the intake manifold intact, but the job was a bit challenging. I had started the job earlier and quickly concluded that I should abort, buy new elbow and T fittings, and then not have to worry about damaging the old ones. I bought the whole kit and confirmed that being able to destroy the old hoses and plastic fittings made the job go much faster.
Yes I have to the conclusion that it's the best way to do this. It costs a bit more but it's more secure. I'm going to order the hoses and wait a couple of weeks so the weather is a bit warmer. It's no fun to work on the car in open air in this cold condition.
 

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I've done the "PCV" a few times. The proper name for that valve is the "bleeder valve". Bad valve symptoms are usually misfires due to a vac leak or loss of boost pressure. The stopper in the bleeder valve (one-way valve) can become off center and allow air through when boost rises under a load.


#6 or 6a depending on the year. 2003+ got 6A
Diagram Line Auto part
You'll want to replace #2, #5, #10 and of course, the bleeder valve at least. That L-shaped tube at the far right that leads up to the back of the valve cover is metal. Just run some cleaner and a brush through it.

It's not a hard job if you have EVERYTHING on hand. Don't plan on trying to save any of it. Not worth it. Cleanest way ids to remove it all, including the metal tube and install the 034 kit. The metal tube can be a PAIN to remove. It is bolted to the firewall and has a couple of wires clipped to it.
 
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in dire need of an organic chemistry lesson
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Bad valve symptoms are usually misfires due to a vac leak or loss of boost pressure.
I certainly do have the loss of boost pressure. The engine struggles especially when it's cold.

You'll want to replace #2, #5, #10 and of course, the bleeder valve at least.
What are the names (part numbers) for #2 and #10. I already have the bleeder valve. So need to order the other two hoses only.

That L-shaped tube at the far right that leads up to the back of the valve cover is metal. Just run some cleaner and a brush through it.
Yes I can clean up the inside of it with some cleaner.

The metal tube can be a PAIN to remove. It is bolted to the firewall and has a couple of wires clipped to it.
I have noticed it. But what is actually easy on these cars? :rolleyes:
 

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I wouldn’t remove the metal tube unless you are replacing it all with the 034 kit. Leave it in place if just cleaning.


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in dire need of an organic chemistry lesson
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I wouldn’t remove the metal tube unless you are replacing it all with the 034 kit. Leave it in place if just cleaning.
I'm planning to just replace the bleeder valve and the other two T and hose.
 

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Here ya go with part numbers. I know I have a new "T" hose (5), upper Y hose at the valve cover (13) and possibly even the Bleeder valve (6A) laying around I can make you a deal on. Whatever you do, DO NOT buy an aftermarket breather tube #2. They just don't fit right into the metal bracket or at all. I bought all that before deciding on just getting the 034 kit after effing around with an aftermarket #2 breather tube.
Text White Line Font Diagram
2) 06A 103 213 F breather tube
5) 06A 103 247 valve housing
6A) 06B 103 245 bleeder valve
13) 06B 103 221 F breather hose
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Here ya go with part numbers. I know I have a new "T" hose (5), upper Y hose at the valve cover (13) and possibly even the Bleeder valve (6A) laying around I can make you a deal on. Whatever you do, DO NOT buy an aftermarket breather tube #2. They just don't fit right into the metal bracket or at all. I bought all that before deciding on just getting the 034 kit after effing around with an aftermarket #2 breather tube.
View attachment 89581
2) 06A 103 213 F breather tube
5) 06A 103 247 valve housing
6A) 06B 103 245 bleeder valve
13) 06B 103 221 F breather hose

Thanks for the part numbers. I already have the bleeder valve (6A). I have also recently removed and cleaned the Y hose (#13). So I'm in need of the T hose and #10 hose (I say #10 per your earlier post).
 

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Which bleeder valve did you get? 6A is not the correct bleeder valve for a 2002 AWM. You need #6, which is 035 103 245 A . You may also need a suction jet pump (058133753B), it clogs easily.

Your breather system should look like this instead of the 2003+ image above.


Also, I would go ahead and remove the intake manifold, It's not hard at all. Makes everything so much easier.
 

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Woodward is correct. I didn't have the early AWM/AUG breather pic to attach. Even if you got a 6A by mistake, you can always just put a vacuum cap on the side port of it.

You don't really need #10 hose up to the intake manifold if it's not torn or abraded. The SJP is a good idea if you've never replaced it. Just waiting for mine to split or clog @172k

I don't know why my pics are so tiny when they upload.....
 

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That's the right one.

The one in the above diagrams (for the late AWM's) looks like this:


Here is a better diagram. It says AUG, but it's the same as the early AWM's
 
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