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Discussion Starter #1
1998 B5 1.8. Apparent bad bearing on passenger side.
Had the classic wheel bearing rumble. Got louder when turning left, when away when turning right.
Got a Rein bearing from FC Euro. Removed the knuckle and took both items to my mechanic to be pressed.
Reassembled and noise/symptoms are still there. Maybe worse. Got to work today and the wheel was too hot to touch.
What gives?
 

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Hmm, if the wheel is hot I would be more inclined to suspect a brake issue than a wheel bearing. Did the caliper give you any trouble coming off the rotor?

Did you torque the axle nut to the proper spec? I typically have to get a loanatool torque wrench to get to the required value.

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Discussion Starter #3
I have a Torque wrench. The spec for my car is supposedly 85ft lbs and a 180 degree turn.

Would too much torque be an issue? When just tightening through the center of the bearing?

And yes, the caliper was completely seized up so I got a new one, Could the ABS module be keeping the brake on?
 

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Some good info there about the siezed and now replaced caliper.

Did you replace the pads and rotor as well? Wondering if the noise was actually the warped brake rotors vs the bearing.

Has the brake hose ever been replaced? I have had a few cases where the inner liner of an old hose will delaminate from the outer and essentially create a check valve inside the hose. You may want to pull the caliper off and see if it is easy to compress or if it puts up a fight.

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Discussion Starter #6
I can't remember if the line has ever been replaced. I replace the calipers and rotors in 2014. Not sure about the lines. (been driving this for about 10 years now - 3003k on it)
There was indications on the inside of the old caliper that the rotor was scraping on it. The rotor shows signs of this as well. That makes me think that the wheel is wobbling. Could the hub cause this? The noise and vibration I feel seems more like bearing, but I will check the caliper to see if it releases. Also worth noting is that the tire on this corner is wearing oddly - like it is being torn up.

Another odd thing is that the Rein bearing had a two-piece inner ..race, or whatever you call that on a sealed bearing. One half of it appeared to be slightly smaller in diameter than the other half. I asked my mechanic to evaluate this and let me know if I needed to buy a different bearing. They said nothing so I believed it was not an issue.

At this point do I need to:
get a new bearing?
get a new hub?
 

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So the hub, when pressed properly into the new bearing and then that assembly pressed into the spindle and then the axle torqued down should not allow any wobble just in the hub unless...the hub is bent or your new bearing is bad.

If you noticed wear on the rotor, I would replace that as a first step. Rotors are cheap and it sounds like yours are pretty old...2014. Additionally, if the rotor is warped and it has odd wear that can actually make a lot of noise. I will probably catch some flak for this but if you want to do a quick test, switch the rotor and pads to the opposite side and see if the noise changes sides.

Other things to check; if you jack the car up and spin the wheel does the wheel wobble at all? Do you hear a grinding or scraping noise?

The wheel bearings on these cars are stepped as you describe. They have a larger ID and smaller ID and they need to be pressed into the hub in the correct orientation. I cannot imagine it being possible to press it on in reverse and if you did I would expect the hub to be ruined.

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Discussion Starter #9
I noticed that the sound and feel of the hub turning felt the same with the new bearing in place as it did with the old bearing. Not really a freely spinning setup in either condition. I know that a warped rotor can make noise, but I have only had issues with them when actually braking - never just driving along. I am not sure when the caliper seized, but the pads are barely worn and I did not replace them, just the caliper. So I will take it apart and see if the caliper piston can be pushed back in.to determine if that is involved.

Would there be a reason to replace the hub if there was no visible damage? Would even a wobbling wheel cause an issue with it? I am thinking that it could not as any wobble would be within the bearing itself, not against the actual hub. AND if torqued even close to correctly to the axle, any wobble would just tear up the CV Joint.
NOW - there is a little bit of odd noise within the CV Joint, so maybe it is getting ready to crap out, but the boot is not bad and there is no clicking, and I cannot imaging a bad CV joint making the racket and rumble that I am experiencing. AND the SUPER HOT steel wheel..... But if it is possible, I need to know....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
if they pressed it wrong and pushed the bearing apart could they have put it back together and pressed it correctly and caused an issue with it?
 

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If the wheel was that hot I wouldn't be surprised if the CV grease is shot. I'd check that soon too, or else you may need a new joint.

My $0.02 is that a bearing would self-destruct before creating enough heat to get the entire wheel that hot but that's just a swag. I have to assume the heat is either coming from the rotor against the pads or the rotor against the caliper or the hub against somthing or ???. Good luck and let us know you find out.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Probably correct about heat thing related to the bearing. I am at a loss. Will check brake line first. Then see what comes next. The rep at the place I got the bearing is working up a replacement ticket so that is a potential good turn. AND it is super easy to remove the axle - don't need to remove the knuckle.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
could the ABS module cause the brakes to stay applied? I don't know much about how they work....
 

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So I will say this. I purchased a rebuilt caliper a few months back and it was more siezed than the one I sent back. It's possible that the same thing has happened to you.

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I don't know much about how the ABS works either but I think that there is a circuit that releases the brake caliper when it detects no motion, ie it prevents skidding. If that's the case it seems unlikely to cause the brake to lock up but I really don't know.
 

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I agree with lowegian I doubt you would have the caliper get stuck closed, I would expect it to fail in reverse and instead stick open.

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Is it only that one wheel that gets hot ?
If it is just one wheel getting hot, it is most likely a caliper issue, or it could be a faulty fluid line to that wheel.
 

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I believe the boot of the caliper at some point has gotten/allowed water inside and rust has formed on the piston,etc.. The brake works on pressure but its retraction is based on the "relaxation" of the hydraulic pressure. At Tom says it is likely a caliper issue. Easy to confirm,jack up,apply brake, then rotate.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I am taking the car to my favorite alignment/suspension shop to have them take a look. I will let everyone know what they tell me.
 
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