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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First off, I know my engine bay is dirty as hell :lol: , I plan on getting it cleaned after the winter!

There is this valve looking thing that has a hole in it & the car runs normal, but I am sure this valve thingy is there for a reason so I want to get a new one but I don't even know what it is, do you know what it's called, & better yet do you know the part #?

BTW - '99 1.8T tiptronic AEB

if you need a better pic let me know & I will post right away

TIA:thumbup:

 

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Yep, that's a check valve.

BTW, K&N filters (or any oiled type filter) work best after they
have accumulated some uhmm, mileage. A little dirt actually helps
the filtering process. Read the K&N package it says so right there.
I think they also state to clean every 50K. But I do it around every 20k
to 40k depending on condition.
 

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your "cold" air intake is almost kissing your turbo. a match made in heaven!!

cleaning often depends upon environment. i'd clean that baby about every 3-4 mesas.
 

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your "cold" air intake is almost kissing your turbo. a match made in heaven!!

cleaning often depends upon environment. i'd clean that baby about every 3-4 mesas.
Yes, your intake if anything is prob hurting your performance due to lack of heatshield and the fact that you got it cooking on the turbo. All your doing is sucking in superheated air which isn't a good thing....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes, your intake if anything is prob hurting your performance due to lack of heatshield and the fact that you got it cooking on the turbo. All your doing is sucking in superheated air which isn't a good thing....
"That's Africa, I know that" a quote from a great film, can anyone guess it :lol:

I took the heat sheild off for pictures, it covers the side of the intake next to the turbo & curves over the top of the intake, but thanks for the heads upanyway :thumbup:
 

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Why do you have the K&N anyway. The stock VW box gets its air from in from just under the hood, nice and fresh and as cold as it will get. If you don't like the stock filter element it can be replaced with a K&N type. Your setup will cause more HOT air to enter the induction system and it also loses any ram effect.

The item you pictured is a one way check valve for the vacuum system.
 

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I had a hole in the same check valve. I have a '00 ATW so I'm not sure about your vehicle, however, on mine it set a code and turned on the CEL - small leak in the evaporative emissions systems. I think this particular valve runs from the purge air valve which I think "catches" fuel vapors from the tank when the vehicle is off and recirculates them through the engine when it's running. On my vehicle there are three or four of these valves in different parts of the engine. They basically allow air to flow in one direction only. While I was waiting for the new check valve to arrive, I sealed mine up with duct tape. This was successful since the check engine light went out. I would encourage you to do the same until you get the new part, which is a little over ten bucks or so.
 

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I use the K&N filter elements on some modified aircooled VW engines with Webers. The K&N do not provide as good as filtering as the stock elements. I have to use a prefilter "sock" around the K&N style to stop the finer dust from entering the induction system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I use the K&N filter elements on some modified aircooled VW engines with Webers. The K&N do not provide as good as filtering as the stock elements. I have to use a prefilter "sock" around the K&N style to stop the finer dust from entering the induction system.
OK now you guys are scaring me, I think I am going to put my stock airbox back in, I have a K&N in that as well, I just thought the box itself restricted the air coming in more than a exposed filter like this :confused:
 

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B5in:

I live on a dirt rode and have driven the air cooled side in some dirty conditions. The reason I went to the outer sock was on recommendation from off road racers who had the same problem.

When I had dismantled the Webers after a short running time I always, not some of the time, found fine dirt or dust had gotten past the K&Ns into the float bowls. If it was there, it was also polishing down the sides of my cylinders and reducing the ring life not to mention getting into the oil.

For daily street driving the stock air box is a pretty well engineered thing and a K&N filter is OK. Now if all out performance is needed my drag buddies don't run air filters at all:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I just got off the phone with the local dealer & they quoted me $29.42 :Yikes:

How come everybody elses dealer prices are only a 3rd of mine here in Chicago :banghead:

On top of that they wouldn't give me the part #, probably because they know they are ripping everbody off & don't want their customers knowing they can get the same part for a 3rd of the price :mad:
 

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I just got off the phone with the local dealer & they quoted me $29.42 :Yikes:

How come everybody elses dealer prices are only a 3rd of mine here in Chicago :banghead:

On top of that they wouldn't give me the part #, probably because they know they are ripping everbody off & don't want their customers knowing they can get the same part for a 3rd of the price :mad:
The PCV DIY (Info Page) has part numbers for the check valves.
The Sticky ETKA PDFs have them too - if I remember right.

Good luck!
 
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