open driver side door
open panel where your fuse box is
get a flash light
look behind the fuse box and you should see some colored boxes with numbers
pull out the black box that says 173 on it.
BOOM no more DRL
I have been running two sets of VME HIDs, both with ultra slim ballasts, both 35W setups without relays for over a year now with zero defects or problems.
55W projectors are not necessary and are going to be very annoying to oncoming drivers if you do not have auto-leveling motors on your headlights, e.g. W8 projectors. 55W fog light projectors are silly, since the projector shutter intentionally limits the beam to about 10 meters in front your car.
For photography, daylight is considered 4300K, and that is also the daylight temperature of color proofing systems used in printing and indoor lighting. 35W 4300K or 5000K bulbs are very bright in low beam projectors, like your personal slice of daylight in front of your car. In my setup, my low beam projectors are 4300K 35W VME HIDs.
Note the color contrast of the 4300K with the incandescent city light before I swapped it out for a bright white Ziza LED.
The second set of HIDs I retrofitted to my fog light projectors in my lower grilles. Higher K temperatures produce more blueish light, blue light reflects off snow and fog, blinding the driver if used incorrectly. Fog lights are more effective in the lower K range because they produce more yellowish light that does not reflect back as badly on snow and/or fog and also sharpens contrast (like yellow lens shooting glasses.) My fog setups are 3000K 35W VME HIDs.
In this photo, the 4300K low beam projectors are off and the bright white Ziza LED city lights are illuminated with the 3000K fog light projectors.