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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
If you have the right tools, they're on the same level as replacing brakes.
 

· PassatWorld Elder
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The 1999 Chevy k3500 didn't start today.
Fuel pump is working so I'm hoping it's the ignition module. Picked up a new one earlier today from Napa.
 

· PassatWorld Elder
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Changed the oil on the 05 Golf before it goes back up north. New driver's side mirror assembly too as it's broken inside from attempts at folding it manually. I put some PB Blaster into both mirror joints. I noticed a drop of coolant on the front of the belly pan, right under the radiator. He'll have to have it replaced in Cincinnati. It looks like the whole front has to come apart to get to it. 102K, but at least he's playing in town next weekend.
 

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Took some pics, it's worse than replacing the Passat radiator (apart from the trans cooler, which is not in the radiator on the Golf). Bumper cover, headlights, and front carrier had to be removed. a/c hoses are at each side and require tilting the radiator to slide it out.
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· PassatWorld Elder
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Filled the Tiguan at Costco for another trip south. 204 miles, 6.65gl. 54 miles of that was local city driving.
 

· PassatWorld Elder
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edit - vehicle info added

1999 Chevy C/K30 5.7L automatic


Does anybody here know anything about Chevy trucks?
My 1999 Chevy C/K30 truck starts intermittingly.
Column shifter won't go back into park because of something being bent or broken.

My question here is, will this issue cause a no start condition?
I've ruled out fuel pump failure and fuel pump relay failure.
 

· If I See a Problem I Tell Someone
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Does anybody here know anything about Chevy trucks?
My 1999 Chevy C/K30 truck starts intermittingly.
Column shifter won't go back into park because of something being bent or broken.

My question here is, will this issue cause a no start condition?
I've ruled out fuel pump failure and fuel pump relay failure.
Automatic ? Linkage might be bound up, causing the neutral safety switch to come into play.
 

· PassatWorld Elder
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Forgot that. Yes it's an automatic.

Back story, maybe this will reveal something.
Late last summer I was cruising down the road and the truck just quit running. I had it towed to my work because that was the closest place that I could leave it and be allowed to work on it without being under pressure to get it done.
The following day I went back to the truck and the shifter lever was in neutral (left there by the tow truck driver).
When I tried to put into park it would NOT go.
After some investigation I noticed this piece below was flopping around under the dash.
The end that connects to the steering column had become dislodged so I reconnected it. The shift selection lever then went into park no problem.
Gas Cable Auto part Metal Font
 

· PassatWorld Elder
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Using the truck for about 5 to 6 months with the (wrong replacement fuel pump) the not starting issue became more prevalent.
Also during this time, the truck would periodically die while going down the road.

About 2 weeks ago the truck just failed to start all together.
Checked fuel pump pressure. Fuel pump was faulty, not delivering enough pressure.
Went back to Napa (different store this time). They spent over 2 hours trying to find the right pump. Success!

Yesterday I swapped in the brand new (correct pump) and still a no start condition.

What I know at this point, when the key gets turned to the 'ON' position the pump does not run (most of the time).
If the pump does run the truck will start instantly. But this is a very low percentage of the time.
So the issue is something electrical that is not allowing the fuel pump to run.

Today I bypassed the mechanism in the above post - picture. With that being jumpered I'm assuming that will not be an issue that can contribute to this problem.
Unless there's some other interlock device that I don't know of the only thing left is the fuel pump relay. I suppose I can go get another one just for grins. I don't like throwing money at a problem but it's only about $15.
I've already spent over $700 on fuel pumps in the last 6 or so months. :mad:

I know Jack about Chevy's. What else is in line to make a fuel pump not run on this thing?
 

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· PassatWorld Elder
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When I last worked on a Chevy, the fuel pump was attached to the side of block.
Yikes.
Things have changed quite a bit since those models were released. Honestly though, that's the same for me. The last time I really touched a GM product was in the 80's.
Used to own a 1983 Pontiac J2000.
That thing went through ignition modules like tic tacs.
 

· PassatWorld Elder
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Call me a hypocrite but right now I'm just throwing money at the problem.
I can't get any definitive answers so I purchased a brand-new computer for the vehicle. The supposed Chevy guru at the local Napa store said those models (like mine) were notorious for failing fuel pumps and computers. Seeing as the only thing left in the chain (as far as I know anyways) is the computer. Well, why not.
Found one online for $114 all in. Send in my VIN# and it comes pre-programmed. Plug n play baby.
That's the one thing I have to admit that's nice about Chevy's, they made millions of parts that are / were used across multiple platforms. Makes parts a bit cheaper.
 
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Wife is finally ready to replace her 2010 Mazda CX-7. We test drove a Genesis GV70 and the new Lexus RX350. I really liked the Genesis quite a bit. She's on a list to get the Lexus though in the colors and options she wants. Probably the last new car she buys just for her so waiting for what she exactly wants.
 

· PassatWorld Elder
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Do you have a dealer in town? The GV70 is really nice, slightly shorter in length, and has more torque with the turbo engines, but the grill on either is a bit overdone. The CX90 is looking pretty good too if you need that much space.
I just wish VW sold the Tiguan Hybrid in the US.
 

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No local dealer. For either we’re a few hours away. My wife would have looked at the CX70 if it wasn’t a year out. The CX90 is too big and if she wanted that big the Palisade may have been her choice.
 

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Attempted the spark plug job on the 2015 GLK. This V6 calls for a tedious removal of the intake manifold, and a thin-walled spark plug socket. After enough videos, I convinced myself that I could do this with the manifold in place.
Passenger side was easy-peasy. Remove the air filter box, be careful with the coils and you’re golden.
The driver’s side is a different story. The genii who haunt the mystical chambers of Daimler engineering decided to park the engine control unit in that space. Removing the ECU itself is not difficult, but a very ornate bracket remains as an intimidating obstacle. Even that, however is not the problem, but the thick wire bundle that is the ECU harness is trapped between the #6 coil and the dipstick tube. I couldn’t figure it out before night approached, so I buttoned her back up with only 3 new plugs. I will research and come back better armed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Replaced the injectors and oil separator on the Q5 yesterday. 2017 2.0TFSI 136k miles. Everything on the engine is still original except plugs and filters.

In all my years, I have never needed to go as far as removing an intake manifold. Pretty straight-forward. All in, about 3.5hrs. That included a little bit of carbon cleaning, but was not prepared to dive into that. I just cleaned the flaps, airflow inserts, and manifold. This is a flexfuel model with a 5th port injector behind the throttle body to aid in cold starts.

I was going through possibilities of my P2177 and injectors seemed the most likely cause. I need to go do some fuel trim logging, but just driving it around town afterwards, I was getting better mileage than previously was getting on short highway stints lately. I'll see how much I can get the old ones flow tested and cleaned for. They can be a back up for my A4 or whatever.

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