[Rob.Achmann]

Rear wiper fluid to the rear hatch doesn’t work. You push the level forward, hear the pump, and nothing out the back… but soon, it comes out the front! Like it backs up or something. So I have a pinched line?

Where does the washer fluid line route through, from the pump to the back window?

I’m guessing I pinched the line when I put the dash back in, but not sure. I don’t remember seeing a line there.

 

[George & Whistling Death]

Do I go with a Gates or Dayco kit this time around, or stick with Conti again?

I've lost track of what engine you have (edit: DUH!!! I just read your signature line) but on mine, while replacing the drive serpentine, I'd replace the AC belt also. I went Dayco (5050510 51” belt 5PK1295) after my Conti went splitsville like yours. Also, for my AC belt I went with a Duralast 4PK860 338K4, which is .5 cm bigger than the original VW#o6B-260-849A . That stinking .196” means the world when it comes to ease of installation!

 

[Iowegian]

Where does the washer fluid line route through, from the pump to the back window?

I don't know the route from the engine compartment to the back luggage area but once the tubing is past the rear seats, it is behind the plastic cover of the luggage compartment. Then there is an elbow (accessible behind the driver's side tail light hatch) before the tubing goes up the pillar to the hatch hinge and then down inside the rubber boot to inside the hatch.

I've had that elbow come apart on a few of my wagons so I would start there. It's easily accessible and can get knocked loose while changing tail light bulbs, etc.

 

[Rob.Achmann]

I don't know the route from the engine compartment to the back luggage area but once the tubing is past the rear seats, it is behind the plastic cover of the luggage compartment. Then there is an elbow (accessible behind the driver's side tail light hatch) before the tubing goes up the pillar to the hatch hinge and then down inside the rubber boot to inside the hatch.

I've had that elbow come apart on a few of my wagons so I would start there. It's easily accessible and can get knocked loose while changing tail light bulbs, etc.

Thanks. I saw it all together back there and it running along under the driver’s side rear window. But maybe I should disconnect it there to see if the cllog is after that point or before?

 

[Iowegian]

That's what I would do. If you do need to track it down in the forward direction you could probably get some sort of wire in there to see if comes out in the engine bay. If it's after that it is probably the spray nozzle on the wiper arm or something else inside the hatch.

 

[Rob.Achmann]

Well, I got ...

Bad news... The Passat will need the floor to be completely remanufactured; $4200 (about $3100 USD) of floor work to rebuild the rotted floor. But I've spent double that on parts so far, and never mind the amount of time I've spent on it.

Good news : At least after this, the car will be sound and worth keeping.

They can start on the tear down on Monday, but can start the build of individual components now.

still yikes...

 

[PZ]

Ouch, that's rough.

 

[Rob.Achmann]

Ouch, that's rough.

Yeah. It was a decision of.. throw out everything I did so far and flush the cash down the drain, or jump in with both feet. Well, this hunk of rust has become something of a hobby and surprisingly found a place in my heart. I was thinking of doing this level with an old ‘64 Merc 230 SL. But it seems that the entry point for a rust bucket there far exceeds my means. Those prices got stupid a while ago, now starting at 30K USD and up. I thought the Passat would be a quick fix for an extra car for my son. I didn’t realize at the time how bad the car was. Initially, my logic was; “up to price ‘X’ would be a reasonable cost to fix it, as I can’t find another working car on the market for that price. At the same time, if I would buy another car at that price, then who’s to say It wouldn’t need a bunch of love as well? So that extended the price ‘X’ somewhat. Over time I’ve also then seen ‘A’ and probably ’B’ that could be replaced with cheap parts that I’ve found. So here we are. But I have come to love the car, how it now just doesn’t want to stop pulling on the road, and how well it drives. Next year, I’ll do the body and paint and really see it shine.

 

[khnitz]

It was a marathon repair session this evening. New valve cover gaskets, 4 new Bosch O2 sensors (used a generic and soldered them onto the old harness/connector), new air filter (might as well), new serpentine belt & tensioner (Conti) and both rear ABS sensors replaced (Hella). Cleared all the DTCs and took it for a 15mile drive and it is running great and DTC free (so far...the emissions cycle still has another 50+ miles to go).

The valve cover gasket set was WAY overdue to be replaced. For the last 20k+ miles, there has been some oil loss that has been burning off on the exhaust manifolds. I had already replaced all the PCV piping last summer, and I recently installed a pop-off-valve-equipped oil cap, too. And, when I replaced the transmission last year I replaced the rear camshaft plugs. So, it was time to tackle the valve cover gaskets.

The left (US driver, 4-5-6) gasket set was in VERY POOR condition. After 133k miles (I've owned the car since 39k miles, and I don't believe the valve cover gaskets were replaced prior to my ownership), the gaskets there were very brittle when removed. There was a lot of oil in the #5 and #6 sparkplug holes in the head. I used a shop vac to get a lot of the oil out, and then sopped up the rest with cheap Q-tips. The old gasket was very brittle and fell/tore apart as I removed it. The gasket on the right (US passenger, 1-2-3) side was not in that similarly bad shape, but it was also aged and leaky. There was some oil in the #3 sparkplug hole, but nowhere near as bad on the left/driver head. Some pictures...

On a positive note: after my post-repair test drive tonight, I did not smell the burnt oil that had been common after any recent drive (due to the leaky valve cover gaskets). Time will tell, but so far, so good. Oh, and here's an image that explains the tightening sequence and torque ( 84 inch-lbs) to use for the valve cover.

Here's a better picture of that torn serpentine belt. It had just over 60k miles on it.

 

[Rob.Achmann]

@khnitz Great pics! That’s a ton of work. I still need to replace the bank 2 O2 sensors so good reminder…

You didn’t want to get the half moon seals, hockey pucks, et al when in there?

 

[khnitz]

@khnitz You didn’t want to get the half moon seals, hockey pucks, et al when in there?

If by the hockey pucks, you mean the camshaft seals at the back of the cylinder heads, I did those last year when I replaced the transmission. I have to check which you're referring to, as everything looks like a hockey puck to you Canadians


As for the half-moon seals, I didn't want to remove any of the camshaft caps, for now, and once I had the valve covers off it was really obvious that the valve cover gaskets were the source of the leak trouble. Maybe when I do the timing belt again in ~40k miles I'll tackle those, too, along with the front and rear camshaft seals (the "ring" seals).

 

[Annunnakkip]

today a have removed all fuel injectors and cleaned all dirty inside the entry of injectors... the dirty acumalated on hole of the entry have almost 2mm of density.
to remove this dirty i have used a knife and lub... just. 379.000 km and 25 years have acumulated 2mm of dirty on injectors... so nice to know all is clean now! o/

 

[khnitz]

After the O2 sensor replacements last week, there were a couple of DTCs that popped up after the emissions learn cycle: P3296 and P3262. I replaced all of the sensors one at a time, so it is unlikely that I swapped connectors...but, I had DTCs before I replaced them, too, and that was after I removed the sensors to install the new flex joints last Spring.

P3296 - DTC 16543 035 - Bank2, O2 Sensor2: Slow Response
P3262 - DTC 19718 035 - references

I read these with a VAG 1552. I have VCDS, too - I can hook that up as well, if needed (it was just quicker to grab the VAG 1552 off the shelf).

I'll have to dig back into some of the materials I have from when I worked on the VW/Audi OnStar units at Motorola Automotive in the early 00's - I can't remember if "035" meant persistant/present/static at time of reading, or sporadic (stored, but not currently present).

 

[Tortelious]

I finally finished installing the new flex-pipes.

I still suck at stick welding stainless, but they don't leak and at least now I won't have to drop those damned down-pipes ever again.
I also put in new engine mounts while I was in the neighborhood.

 

[AndreasPassat]

Stainless isn't easy as steel. I have to say it doesn't really look that bad. I've seen some real peanut butter welds from 'experienced' guys.

 

[Rob.Achmann]

I have to check which you're referring to, as everything looks like a hockey puck to you Canadians

You obviously haven't seen my (highly specialized) under car bolt retrieving device from a year ago or so... (my Bauer hockey stick)

 

[Housemoney]

Got my antenna adapter in, so radio install is complete instead of the crappy job the PO did. Replaced the hood strut so I don't have to keep propping up the hood when working on it. Chasing a coolant leak today.

The tail lights I ordered from Ebay didn't fit. It has smoked tail light covers on it now that I don't like.

 

[Housemoney]

A lot of fail today. Tried finding the coolant leak that I think is coming from the CTS area but couldn’t get the duct over it out. There’s a T25 that is tough to get to.
Decided to look at the back windows that had wedges in them to keep them up. Drilled out the speaker so I could feel around and see if anything had fallen out. No such luck but I did feel a loose regulator wire. Started removing the inner skin and can’t get the piece off the window. Tapped a screwdriver, drilled with several sizes of bits. It’s still won’t release.
May try the passenger side rear tomorrow and hopefully finish one of the jobs I started today

 

[John_E]

Not today, but nine days ago I finished replacing the solenoid-controlled vacuum switch for the secondary air injection system. Without vacuum from this switch, the combi valve never opens. I took it for a 10-mile Home Depot and grocery run early last Saturday morning, choosing my route to include a couple of 2-mile 45-50 mph stretches, confirmed that I had indeed finally set my emission test readiness monitors, called up my usual go-to local smog test company, and passed smog that day. Don't believe people who claim that you should just keep driving until all of your readiness monitors set -- mine never would have.

 

[Tortelious]

A lot of fail today. Tried finding the coolant leak that I think is coming from the CTS area but couldn’t get the duct over it out. There’s a T25 that is tough to get to.
Decided to look at the back windows that had wedges in them to keep them up. Drilled out the speaker so I could feel around and see if anything had fallen out. No such luck but I did feel a loose regulator wire. Started removing the inner skin and can’t get the piece off the window. Tapped a screwdriver, drilled with several sizes of bits. It’s still won’t release.
May try the passenger side rear tomorrow and hopefully finish one of the jobs I started today

If you're talking about the hard plastic elbow that attaches to the throttle body, that bolt is actually a 5mm allen head. A mini ratchet and magnetic bit holder is what I use to get at that little bastard.