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I'm worried about that too. Figured I just did an expensive oil flush. Its drained now and up on jack stands. Getting ready to get under there and drop the pan. We will see what happens when I fire it up.
What did you do to your Passat today?
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8,467 Posts
Not exactly the same scenario, when I bought my first Passat (98 GLS V6 5sp) back in 2006 it had a serious amount of crusty oil residue on the whole bottom side. Engine, trans, axles you name it, it was nasty.
I knew it was leaking oil, but I figured it was just leaking out from every possible seal or gasket. I pressure washed the underside to at least see where the major source of oil was coming from.
With the engine cold it wouldn’t leak. When it was hot, droplets of oil would magically appear on the ground. After hours of trying to figure where the oil was coming from, I put the car up on ramps and literally just laid underneath the car waiting for the oil to drip onto me.
As it turned out, when the oil got hot and thin, it would leak right through the oil pan. Yes I said through it. After removing the lower oil pan it was discovered that there were numerous hairline cracks in the aluminum. Just enough for oil to drip through only when hot.
It was one of those things that if someone else told me that, I would have thought they were nuts. I still have that oil pan by the way.
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Two bolts broke, so can't finish the job until tomorrow. At least they were two that were easier ones to get to.
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207 Posts
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207 Posts
I was looking at a parts Passat that was one of the most rust free I had ever seen. The front sub-frame was already removed and dumped into a hopper. It was shiny and black and looked perfect and nearly rust free, but upon closer inspection it became obvious the guy torched the bolts off and melted mounting holes all over it. I hate when that happens...You see something that looks really good until you look closer. The guy still tried to tell me it would be okay and tried to sell it to me. I didn't think it would be okay though...
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688 Posts
I decided to start removing the exhaust today to get it ready for new flexpipes. I found some 304 stainless pipe and couplings that I'll use this time instead of that flippin' galvanized nonsense.I got everything loose, just have to drop the subframe to get the downpipes out. I'm also gonna replace the engine/trans mounts while I'm at it.
But I lost my quotient of skin and blood for the day, so I'm done for a while.
But I lost my quotient of skin and blood for the day, so I'm done for a while.
Bled the RF brake caliper I installed over the weekend. Then I decided to attack replacing the rear wheel hubs. 19yrs, ~132k miles and all those winters in the snowbelt have not been kind. And WHY do they insist on using allen-key bolts for this kind of stuff ?!?! There's no way to get enough torque on them without stripping them out for cars that have lived this kind of life.
Broke out the angle grinder and will keep attacking them. Then I'll use an oxy-acetylene torch to try and get enough heat to allow the remaining studs to be turned out. Oh, and I've got to find replacement bolts...sigh.
![Helmet Sports equipment Wood Saw Bumper]()
![Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire Vehicle brake]()
@AndreasPassat - looks like I am re-living your pain from this post Rear wheel bearing hub - bolt size pitch? - Rear Bearing...
Broke out the angle grinder and will keep attacking them. Then I'll use an oxy-acetylene torch to try and get enough heat to allow the remaining studs to be turned out. Oh, and I've got to find replacement bolts...sigh.
@AndreasPassat - looks like I am re-living your pain from this post Rear wheel bearing hub - bolt size pitch? - Rear Bearing...
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I saw that picture and it was deja vu. Sheesh.
I heard that! Wrong application for Allen bolts (in my opinion anyways). It looks like you're going down the only path that's available. Good luck.
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23 Posts
Got the two broken bolts out and finished the job. Pressure washed the engine and underside. Don't see any leaks yet.
Trying to install a new head unit, so will head over to a different thread.
Trying to install a new head unit, so will head over to a different thread.
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28,086 Posts
I'm surprised you didn't drop the fuel tank and have them reinforce the nipple on top that fails. Those "New Mexico" control arms look rusty compared to a Texas car 😛
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1,241 Posts
I didn’t clean them yet. All I did was use windex and now they look like they are new. Just a small amount of rust on the bushing actually. I’m so impressed I went back to them and bought the lowers as well… oh - wait - the ‘in with the new shot’ in that post are still the rusted repaired ones that needed to be replaced; thus these new ones
and I believe the fuel tank recall was already done on the car.
Action shot of yesterday's work!!
![Hood Automotive lighting Tire Wheel Automotive tire]()
Both rear wheel hubs have been removed. A 6" cut-off wheel on an angle grinder made quick work of the wheel-hub-to-spindle/torsion-beam bolt heads.
![Wood Helmet Vehicle brake Auto part Metal]()
Then, as @AndreasPassat mentioned in his wheel hub removal thread, I hit the bolts (the studs that were left) with a ball peen hammer and then they backed out with a large vise grip.
![Automotive tire Crankset Bicycle tire Bicycle part Bicycle chain]()
![Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bicycle part Rim Automotive exterior]()
I used a dremel with a cut-off wheel to cut slits in the barrel on the back of the old hubs where the wheel speed sensor sits - the sensors would not pry out otherwise, due to the amount of corrosion. I cut the slits 180deg apart and then pried the barrels back until the sensor could start to wiggle. I used synthetic brake caliper pin grease to lightly coat the o-ring of the sensor when reinstalling it in the new hub.
![Gas Auto part Metal Wood Concrete]()
The driver side went back together last night. I'll get the passenger side reassembled today, and then on to replacing the engine mounts and I think I want to get the new valve cover gaskets installed, too (I already replaced all the PCV hoses this past summer, and I installed a venting oil cap, as well). I also have a new oil pressure sender/switch to install, in case that is showing signs of weeping oil.
Anything to slow down the engine oil leaks would be good! I'm still ~45k miles away from the next timing belt replacement where I would tackle the camshaft oil seals and front main crank seal.
Both rear wheel hubs have been removed. A 6" cut-off wheel on an angle grinder made quick work of the wheel-hub-to-spindle/torsion-beam bolt heads.
Then, as @AndreasPassat mentioned in his wheel hub removal thread, I hit the bolts (the studs that were left) with a ball peen hammer and then they backed out with a large vise grip.
I used a dremel with a cut-off wheel to cut slits in the barrel on the back of the old hubs where the wheel speed sensor sits - the sensors would not pry out otherwise, due to the amount of corrosion. I cut the slits 180deg apart and then pried the barrels back until the sensor could start to wiggle. I used synthetic brake caliper pin grease to lightly coat the o-ring of the sensor when reinstalling it in the new hub.
The driver side went back together last night. I'll get the passenger side reassembled today, and then on to replacing the engine mounts and I think I want to get the new valve cover gaskets installed, too (I already replaced all the PCV hoses this past summer, and I installed a venting oil cap, as well). I also have a new oil pressure sender/switch to install, in case that is showing signs of weeping oil.
Anything to slow down the engine oil leaks would be good! I'm still ~45k miles away from the next timing belt replacement where I would tackle the camshaft oil seals and front main crank seal.
New wheel hubs and engine mounts are installed and I took it out for a drive. The Good: it is shifting, driving and braking great! It rolls so much quieter with the new rear wheel bearings, and the engine vibration is so much better with the new mounts.
Here is a pic of the new mount vs. the removed mounts...
![Wood Circle Automotive tire Auto part Metal]()
The Bad: an ABS code is being thrown for the RR wheel speed sensor. My guess is that I damaged it during the removal because of all the corrosion. Also, I was going to replace the valve cover gaskets (I still will), but in the process of taking the plastic covers off of the engine, I noticed that the accessory drive belt is torn!
![Automotive tire Vehicle Motor vehicle Hood Automotive lighting]()
This was a Contitech belt (part of an ADK0048P kit I installed about 50k miles ago) that has a tear in it now. So, I need to order that, as well. Any recommendations? I would replace the belt and tensioner - any recommendations on a brand? Do I go with a Gates or Dayco kit this time around, or stick with Conti again?
And, while I'm at it I might as well order the O2 sensors and get rid of the ECU codes (I think I fried the 2 on the cats when I had to remove them to install the latest replacement flex joints).
Here is a pic of the new mount vs. the removed mounts...
The Bad: an ABS code is being thrown for the RR wheel speed sensor. My guess is that I damaged it during the removal because of all the corrosion. Also, I was going to replace the valve cover gaskets (I still will), but in the process of taking the plastic covers off of the engine, I noticed that the accessory drive belt is torn!
This was a Contitech belt (part of an ADK0048P kit I installed about 50k miles ago) that has a tear in it now. So, I need to order that, as well. Any recommendations? I would replace the belt and tensioner - any recommendations on a brand? Do I go with a Gates or Dayco kit this time around, or stick with Conti again?
And, while I'm at it I might as well order the O2 sensors and get rid of the ECU codes (I think I fried the 2 on the cats when I had to remove them to install the latest replacement flex joints).
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I have stuck with Gates, but I don’t have a lot of belt experience. Mind you, I did get 50 extra horsepower from my Gates blue racing timing belt, so there’s that…
This sounds like the next edition of “If You Give a Mouse a Cookie”, after the mouse reached driving age.
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207 Posts
Source the stainless tubing yourself, it could save you a lot of money and you sometimes you can learn some useful new information that you didn't know before.
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688 Posts
I found the half-couplings in the US, but the pipes had to come from China. 304 all around.
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23 Posts
Wet sanded the oxidized paint, washed it twice. Tomorrow will be compounding, polishing, and wax. Looks like it has a small coolant leak I need to track down. You can smell it burning off of the manifold.
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1,241 Posts
My turn signals don’t work… the 4-way hazards do work…
I’m guessing that it’s fuse#2 which is a 10 amp mini.
But researching the relay gave me a bit of a surprise. You mechanics out here probably already knew this….
The signal relay is built into the hazard switch and is not a separate relay that goes under the dash or hood. !! That switch / built-in relay is $35 CAD from the VW dealer (so about 10 bucks USD)
I’m guessing that it’s fuse#2 which is a 10 amp mini.
But researching the relay gave me a bit of a surprise. You mechanics out here probably already knew this….
The signal relay is built into the hazard switch and is not a separate relay that goes under the dash or hood. !! That switch / built-in relay is $35 CAD from the VW dealer (so about 10 bucks USD)
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