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Well I think I finally found my last water leak. I've been checking my doors and after a hard rain I found water on the passenger door sill. Half a tube of permatex red and once the little water that got in dries up I will have a dry Passat for the first time since I bought it. 💪
We had a fierce rain where I'm in AZ last night. Dodged all the other monsoon rains as of recent but got hammered last night.
My trunk is like a gold fish pond right now. (n)
 

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That's a new one to me. You have a leak around the trunk lid? The trunk is the only dry part of my Passat.
Actually the rear window seal is leaking and it runs right into the trunk. :(
I had the rear window replaced a few years ago, not so good a job on the adhesive that holds / seals the window to the car body.
 
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Actually the rear window seal is leaking and it runs right into the trunk. :(
I had the rear window replaced a few years ago, not so good a job on the adhesive that holds / seals the window to the car body.
It can be tricky getting glass in. I installed the windshields on the Dodge minivan on the line on occasion and I broke a couple in the process. If you get them in on an angle the bead of adhesive grabs on one side, trying to get the window to flex to grab the other side can break the glass. They were probably too gentle trying to install it.

If the install was fairly recent, the butyl adhesive doesn't exactly cure and stays pliable for years. If you can find the edge that isn't sealed you might be able to heat it up on a hot day and put some weight on it to get it to reseal. It's not a guaranteed method but it might work.
 

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It can be tricky getting glass in. I installed the windshields on the Dodge minivan on the line on occasion and I broke a couple in the process. If you get them in on an angle the bead of adhesive grabs on one side, trying to get the window to flex to grab the other side can break the glass. They were probably too gentle trying to install it.

If the install was fairly recent, the butyl adhesive doesn't exactly cure and stays pliable for years. If you can find the edge that isn't sealed you might be able to heat it up on a hot day and put some weight on it to get it to reseal. It's not a guaranteed method but it might work.
You must be from Windsor, eh? ;)
 
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That job (windshield installation) has been robotized on most lines for probably 25 years now.

Grab the windshield with suction cups, move it under the butyl dispenser, then push it on.
Sounds about right. I actually only got put on the job after the robots started screwing up. I believe the robots were new at the time, which would have been a little over 22 years ago. Robots are great at laying a bead of butyl around the outside edge, but less adept at knowing how much pressure to apply during installation to get a seal without breaking the windshield. I got put on the line a few times to install windshields when the robots faulted out, and use a beanbag to tamp them down when the seal wasn't right.

By now I imagine most lines are set-up for robots to install the windshield and do it better. Pant 3 where I worked is probably over 75 years old. Robots need a lot of space (I had a robot try to put the whole side of a van through the roof) and for proper indexing a conveyer type underbody line, as opposed to an overhead carrier which swings randomly. Modernizing plants takes some logistics and a lot of money. I imagine in some of the older plants they might still do a manual install but not many. It's a job better suited to a robot, choreographing two people trying to pick up a windshield and walk backwards trying to align it in 48 seconds isn't easy.
 

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Replaced the LR caliper due to a leak at the emergency brake lever pivot. It was a Powerstop unit that had been replaced as part of a calipers/rotors/pads set for all 4 corners I had installed about 8k miles ago. The RR had failed this Spring. I think I'm done with Powerstop.
This time around, I went with a Duralast unit from Autozone (lifetime warranty, and it was available locally).
I also changed the oil & filter.

A question from while I was working on that: why would it look like the rear shock is leaking UPWARDS (see pic)? Is that how these fail?
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Gas Hood

I got this view because I had to take out and realign/reinstall the fender liner (my son tweaked it when parking by hitting some rocks at the edge of the driveway with the mudguards that USED to be on there).
 

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I think I'm done with Powerstop.
This time around, I went with a Duralast unit from Autozone (lifetime warranty, and it was available locally).
I chose Raybestos, or VW Remans from Cardone, but I really think it’s a crap shoot out there. I think you have the best option of lifetime warranty, tbh.
Depending on how the shock fails, I could easily see the top rusting through and the good juice spitting upwards. Very probable as I’ve seen just about every part fail on my ATQ 4Mo, and it wouldn’t surprise me! Any random direction if it fails
 
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An interesting possibility, but I've had it for 8yrs now and it was never oil sprayed while under my ownership.
Yah, I just know mine was done. No clue if it's factory, dealership or what, but the inside of my car is sticky. A couple of the body plugs are starting to leak and it comes out of the doors all the time.

WD40 will leave a stain like that for years as well.
 

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Finally, got my a/c recharged on my 98 GLS daily driver. Local shops want to charge minimum $200 for a just a recharge!
Went to Harbor Freight and bought myself a set of gauges. Got the gauges and Freon all for less than $80.
That minimum 1 hour / 50 mile drive home and having my shirt soaking wet when I get home, just couldn't deal with it anymore.
 

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Finally, got my a/c recharged on my 98 GLS daily driver. Local shops want to charge minimum $200 for a just a recharge!
Went to Harbor Freight and bought myself a set of gauges. Got the gauges and Freon all for less than $80.
That minimum 1 hour / 50 mile drive home and having my shirt soaking wet when I get home, just couldn't deal with it anymore.
So how do you do it properly? I’m in the same boat; I’ve rebuilt the A/C for the most part and so how did you do the vacuum test?
 

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This guy actually does a pretty good job stepping through the procedure. Gets down to the point without any rambling.


I didn't do a vacuum test because my fix is intended to be short term.

Harbor Freight sells a vacuum pump for around $125.
 
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A question from while I was working on that: why would it look like the rear shock is leaking UPWARDS (see pic)? Is that how these fail?
View attachment 106863
I got this view because I had to take out and realign/reinstall the fender liner (my son tweaked it when parking by hitting some rocks at the edge of the driveway with the mudguards that USED to be on there).
If the weather was warm, it's the body wax used to prevent rust. It melts in warm temps.
 
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