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I programmed a new key. They say there's no such as too much knowledge but the wildly varying accounts what what CAN and kant be done based on the cluster and immobilizer were intimidating. For my 02' it was as simple as grabbing the SKC from VAG Commander and popping that into VCDS. $20 all in for a new key ain't too shabby.
 

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Did you see my ‘light sanding’ of my disk brake dust shield I got from @Tortelious? Yes, this baby will be rust free. But I’m not satisfied with the brand of high heat black gloss paint I used: the finish is rapidly deteriorating. What is a good primer and paint brand to use that will survive a decent amount of time?

The poly mounts - I’ve heard of that and am avoiding those. Looking at Febi.
POR-15 is supposed to be really good at sealing and preventing rust. I've seen it in a lot of restoration posts.
 
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POR-15 is supposed to be really good at sealing and preventing rust. I've seen it in a lot of restoration posts.
Ok, thanks - what about good ol’ Rust-Oleum?
 

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Please send me links or info on all of the above! I don’t know any of those!
"SUMMARY:
VOLKSWAGEN (VW) IS RECALLING CERTAIN VW PASSAT 4MOTION AND AUDI A6 QUATTRO AND ALLROAD QUATTRO ALL-WHEEL DRIVE PASSENGER CARS. VW VEHICLES SUBJECT TO RECALL WERE MANUFACTURED FROM NOVEMBER 22, 2000 THROUGH MAY 31, 2005 AND AUDI VEHICLES SUBJECT TO RECALL WERE MANUFACTURED FROM JUNE 2, 2001 TO JUNE 1, 2005. THE NHTSA RECALL NUMBER FOR THE VW VEHICLES IS 08V-156 (VW ALSO IS CORRECTING DEFECTS RELATED TO HEAT SHIELD AND FUEL LINE HAZARDS FOR THESE VEHICLES AND FOR 1999-2000 PASSATS IN THIS RECALL ACTION.) THE NHTSA RECALL NUMBER FOR THE AUDI VEHICLES IS 08V-157. SINCE 2006, ODI HAS RECEIVED 17 COMPLAINTS OF FUEL LEAKING FROM THE SUBJECT VEHICLES' FUEL TANKS. THE 400 COMPLAINTS SHOWN ABOVE MAY INCLUDE DUPLICATE REPORTS TO ODI AND THE MANUFACTURER. WHILE THE CONSEQUENCE (FUEL LEAKS FROM THE TOP OF THE TANK) IS SIMILAR FOR BOTH THE PASSAT AND AUDI SUBJECT VEHICLES, DIFFERENCES IN DESIGN AND CONSTRUCTION REQUIRE A DIFFERENT REMEDY FOR EACH VEHICLE. ON THE PASSATS, THE VENTILATION LINE COULD HAVE BEEN INSTALLED IMPROPERLY WITH TENSION AND WITH AN INCORRECTLY POSITIONED CABLE TIE. THE TENSION COULD CAUSE CRACKED OR BROKEN NIPPLES ON THE FUEL TANK ROLLOVER VALVE. ON THE AUDI VEHICLES, A MATERIAL CHANGE (EFFECTIVE JUNE 2, 2001) WITH DIFFERENT AGING CHARACTERISTICS USED FOR THE ROLLOVER VALVE AND THE USE OF AN INFLEXIBLE ALUMINUM VENTILATION LINE COULD CAUSE CRACKING OF THE NIPPLE ON THE ROLLOVER VALVE. VW IS RECALLING ALL VEHICLES SUBJECT TO THESE DEFECTS. IT WILL INSPECT PASSATS TO ENSURE THAT THE VENT LINE IS TENSION FREE AND CORRECT THE INSTALLATION IF TENSION IS FOUND. IF A CRACK OR FUEL LEAK IS FOUND, VW WILL REPLACE THE FUEL TANK. AUDI WILL REPAIR ALL SUBJECT VEHICLES BY REINFORCING THE FUEL TANK ROLLOVER VALVE WITH AN EPOXY ADHESIVE. THIS INVESTIGATION IS CLOSED."

How to see it:

Pics too:
 

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Ok, thanks - what about good ol’ Rust-Oleum?
I don't know how well it holds up to road salt, but I've used it on a sway bar on the Golf and it looked decent. I won't see how it held up to salt until next year if he drives it home again.
 
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After about 4-5 months of having the brake light flashing on the cluster, I decided to add some brake fluid at lunch time today.
Guess what? No more light. :D
Topped off the p/s fluid while I was in there.
Next big ticket item... Oil change on the 1998 V6 GLS. I think it's been like 2 years since I've actually changed the oil. Can't wait to see how dark and thin that stuff is. :unsure:

On a side note:
My wife happened to find some Mobil1 15W-50 while we were at wallymart the other night.
Bought every jug they had. :giggle: Payback to all the other sorry chumps looking for oil like I have for weeks and weeks.
 

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Ok, thanks - what about good ol’ Rust-Oleum?
POR-15 is supposed to 'convert' the existing rust and then seal it up. I've never used it but have heard good things about it. Rust-Oleum, especially if it has some zinc in it, might work but it won't be as robust for the long term since it will be thinner.

If you are treating parts that can be removed, oxalic acid will remove all the rust and the piece can be primed and painted at that point.

I'd suggest some sort of oil-based coating as well to prevent future rust but it's been decades since I lived in a rust zone so I'd ask around locally to see what works best in your area.
 

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Used some 3M spray adhesive to reattach the cloth to the sunroof motor cover trim piece. Started coming loose after 18yrs/130k miles. Now we have an unobstructed view from the rearview mirror, again :)
Gonna have to do that to my black W8. Looks like a sleazy hotel curtain hanging down right now.
 
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After about 4-5 months of having the brake light flashing on the cluster, I decided to add some brake fluid at lunch time today.
Guess what? No more light. :D
Topped off the p/s fluid while I was in there.
Next big ticket item... Oil change on the 1998 V6 GLS. I think it's been like 2 years since I've actually changed the oil. Can't wait to see how dark and thin that stuff is. :unsure:

On a side note:
My wife happened to find some Mobil1 15W-50 while we were at wallymart the other night.
Bought every jug they had. :giggle: Payback to all the other sorry chumps looking for oil like I have for weeks and weeks.
Changed the oil on Saturday. It wasn't as bad as I had expected. Maybe from adding all that oil to keep it topped off kept it clean. :D
With fresh 15W-50 oil in the sump, it sure is nice and quite on start up now. Zero cam chain rattle. Means my CCT's are still working. :p
 

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Honestly, it took me <15mins - and that included removing the IHF1000 Bluetooth Carkit button assembly I have custom-mounted to it, first. That 3M spray adhesive is the best (bought it at Home Depot, I think).
Hope you have better luck than me. I think it lasted two weeks before it (main headliner, not the sunroof part) started sagging again
 

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Put in the new TCU, good as new. Now for the water ingress...

Question: Does the sunroof tube have to run to the nipple? I couldn't fish the end out and I don't have a double square to remove the door to get at it. As far as I can tell it just runs down the A pillar and into a crossmember and out the bottom but I'm not 100%.

Tracking the water leaks on these cars is a nightmare and the carpets seem to hold a ridiculous amount of water.
 

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Put in the new TCU, good as new. Now for the water ingress...

Question: Does the sunroof tube have to run to the nipple? I couldn't fish the end out and I don't have a double square to remove the door to get at it. As far as I can tell it just runs down the A pillar and into a crossmember and out the bottom but I'm not 100%.

Tracking the water leaks on these cars is a nightmare and the carpets seem to hold a ridiculous amount of water.
I'm going to make a big assumption and guess that your car is a B5.5 like mine. That being said,

To fish the end out of that prohibitively small space and not have to remove your door, run a length ( I just fed it right off the spool) of thick weedtrimmer line down from the roof drain inlet, you'll see it inside the grommet hole after it has come through the drain hose. You can then grab the trimmer line-might have to use something to hook it and then guide the bottom of the drain hose out of the grommet hole. There's not a lot of excess, and you don't want to pull on the drain hose as you might pull it free of the roof drain up top (ask me how I know this is possible :rolleyes:) In my particular case, I'd misplaced my grommet somehow, so I simply obtained a piece of clear vinyl tubing from Lowe's and used it as a sleeve to fit over the drain hose, sliding it about 6 inches up the drain hose, adding enough length to extend well out of the pillar grommet hole. It's worked like a charm ever since. When I eventually find the grommet piece, I'll cut that dirt-catcher tip off of it, and reinstall it properly. Utilizing the trimmer line as a guide (anchored up top to keep it taut), you can feed the grommet back into place on the drain tube, making sure it's well seated. Then, put the grommet gently back into its hole. Of course, pour a couple of ounces of water down the drain up top, to verify that it's properly coming out the grommet end because, well... Murphy's Law.

long story short, yes, you need to either reconnect the line to the drain nipple, or otherwise route the flow out of the body of the A pillar.
 

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I'm going to make a big assumption and guess that your car is a B5.5 like mine. That being said,

To fish the end out of that prohibitively small space and not have to remove your door, run a length ( I just fed it right off the spool) of thick weedtrimmer line down from the roof drain inlet, you'll see it inside the grommet hole after it has come through the drain hose. You can then grab the trimmer line-might have to use something to hook it and then guide the bottom of the drain hose out of the grommet hole. There's not a lot of excess, and you don't want to pull on the drain hose as you might pull it free of the roof drain up top (ask me how I know this is possible :rolleyes:) In my particular case, I'd misplaced my grommet somehow, so I simply obtained a piece of clear vinyl tubing from Lowe's and used it as a sleeve to fit over the drain hose, sliding it about 6 inches up the drain hose, adding enough length to extend well out of the pillar grommet hole. It's worked like a charm ever since. When I eventually find the grommet piece, I'll cut that dirt-catcher tip off of it, and reinstall it properly. Utilizing the trimmer line as a guide (anchored up top to keep it taut), you can feed the grommet back into place on the drain tube, making sure it's well seated. Then, put the grommet gently back into its hole. Of course, pour a couple of ounces of water down the drain up top, to verify that it's properly coming out the grommet end because, well... Murphy's Law.

long story short, yes, you need to either reconnect the line to the drain nipple, or otherwise route the flow out of the body of the A pillar.
Yes, it's a 5.5.

I tried a ss shifter cable and a length of stiff plastic tubing, basically hollow trimmer wire but a little stiffer with no success. I can only get two fingers in the hole and try to grab at it like a crab. I think the way it's routed in the A pillar it's closer to the body and out of my reach. And because the silicone tubing is still pliable it's pointing straight down.

So frustrating. I just want to cross all of the potential water leak problems off the list. It seems to have had all of the recalls performed; the nipplectomy, the cabin filter seal, the drain plus in the firewall. But water still seems to be getting in, the carpets are wet and there's no point drying them until the leaks are taken care of.
 

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So who has the record for oldest timing belt on a 30V?

I'll go first. 21 years. With a March 2001 build date and an original belt I'm a little over the recommended service interval.

The car only has 70K km so I'm well under in terms of mileage but pushing the extreme limits of the age suggestion.

So not what I did today, but what I should have done today.
 

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So who has the record for oldest timing belt on a 30V?

I'll go first. 21 years. With a March 2001 build date and an original belt I'm a little over the recommended service interval.

The car only has 70K km so I'm well under in terms of mileage but pushing the extreme limits of the age suggestion.

So not what I did today, but what I should have done today.
Not on a 30V, but on a Jetta. Last summer I replaced what turned out to be the original timing belt on a 2.0L 2001 Jetta wagon that used to belong to my parents. It went through my sister and then to neighbor who basically doubled the miles on it before I bought it back in early 2019 with ~145k miles. I had specifically asked about the timing belt replacement, and they said it had been done - but it wasn't (maybe they got confused with the accessory drive belts). So while I was in there replacing spark plugs, etc., I decided to double-check the belt to calm my fears, and instead I found this...
Outerwear Sleeve Wood Collar Automotive tire


We did not start the Jetta again until the new timing belt kit arrived and was installed.

The new belts are supposed to be kevlar and rated for lifetime use, you just need to check their condition every so often for damage/cracks. I would still plan on a regular replacement at a 90k mile interval.

As for our 2004 30V, I've replaced it once, and still have 45k miles or so before the next replacement. But I know at that time I will be doing camshaft seals, too, and probably the crank main seal, as well.
 
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