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Oh, so you will sell it to me! That’s nice, thanks! Let me know the price😜
Of course I'd sell it to you.
You know the saying, friends don't let friends drive drunk.
Well...
PassatWorld members let other PassatWorld members buy W8's. :p
 

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Probably a wise decision.
Something I should probably do, but that to me would be admitting that I'm getting to old and tired for this kind of thing. I'm just not willing to except that just yet.
Not quite old, but really tired. With one car and only 15K on it, I will never need it for me. The Golf went from 64K to 92K in a year with my son. The Passat is a 2nd car that does not get driven often by my other son. They share the newer X3 and alternate days in the office with work from home.
 

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Not quite old, but really tired. With one car and only 15K on it, I will never need it for me. The Golf went from 64K to 92K in a year with my son. The Passat is a 2nd car that does not get driven often by my other son. They share the newer X3 and alternate days in the office with work from home.

Our Grauwagen has come in handy the last three and half months……🧐
He still drives pretty well…….
 

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Of course I'd sell it to you.
You know the saying, friends don't let friends drive drunk.
Well...
PassatWorld members let other PassatWorld members buy W8's. :p
lol now I’m a little worried - especially after your and @PZ ‘s admissions… maybe my next project car should be a sail boat 😌
 

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I ordered a blower motor resistor for my Passat from Rock Auto, it is a Beck-Arnley. Watched the obligatory YouTube installation videos, and hey, guess what? It wasn't as easy to R/R as the videos showed. Why not? Previous owner or mechanic had done some sketchy reassembly of the duct work. I didn't mind figuring it out, but the fact that the resistor had a 5.5mm headed screw holding it in, rather than 6mm, that kind of annoyed me. The 1" decking screw was a cute touch, attaching the blower to the upper half of the ducting in lieu of the actual screw that was supposed to hold it in place (tab on blower motor was broken off, so they just tacked it on directly). Anyway, I inspected the blower motor while I had everything open, and it was seemingly in good shape. Spun freely as is should, no noise or grinding. So, I installed the new resistor, reinstalled blower motor, then TESTED before reinstalling glove box. Worked great once I re-plugged in the blower motor 😆 😆 derp.. All buttoned up, and cleaned out the glove box too. Aside from the sketchy previous work and the annoying mosquitoes, not a hard job. Now I can use my AC on any speed without it cutting out after a couple of minutes.

I figure I saved myself $100 in labor from a shop, so I'll pencil that on over to my "1963 Beetle account" towards the new interior panels I have ordered that are still on backorder.

Note to anyone doing this- remember that you're working with old plastic, and it tends to be fragile sometimes. Take your time, don't force it.
 

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lol now I’m a little worried - especially after your and @PZ ‘s admissions… maybe my next project car should be a sail boat 😌
No, you shouldn't even be thinking about a sailboat. Besides, sailboats are for uppity ups with to much money laying around.
You should be thinking about taking that W8 off my hands.

Seriously though, I've got a friend up in WI that bought a sailboat a few years back. That thing has turned into a money pit. And it's one of those boats with that huge rudder thingy hanging off the bottom of the boat. He's gotta plan his whole route out just drop it into some water. It sits way high on the trailer and when you live in a sleepy old town, modern bridges that are high enough to clear everything on the road aren't very common.
I think he's had it on the water 2 times in the last 3 years. It is a nice a boat though. :)
 
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Note to anyone doing this- remember that you're working with old plastic, and it tends to be fragile sometimes. Take your time, don't force it.
I hear that! Just looking at some of those plastic bits to long to hard will cause them to break.
 

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lol now I’m a little worried - especially after your and @PZ ‘s admissions… maybe my next project car should be a sail boat 😌
In our case, we both had injuries that dealt a brutal blow.

"A boat is just a hole in the water that you throw money into"
 

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I figure I saved myself $100 in labor from a shop, …..
Any shop up here would easily go 1.5 or 2 hours for that… So, you would have saved at least $150 (everything up here is $100/hr)
 

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Any shop up here would easily go 1.5 or 2 hours for that… So, you would have saved at least $150 (everything up here is $100/hr)
Wow-- I was piddling around, taking my time, and did it in under an hour. I guess I need to up my estimated time to maintain my reputation as "a miracle worker" :ROFLMAO: Seriously, though- if everything had gone perfectly right, with all the proper fasteners in the right places...that is a half-hour job at most. However, that being said, I shall allocate $150 to my Herbie slush fund.
 

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Well, my next project arrived..

View attachment 106722
Nice. Are you going to clean and seal everything? Bushings are probably the same as the A6 if you have trouble finding them. Since it's out, are you going to reinforce the fuel tank vent that causes leaks on a full tank?
 

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Nice. Are you going to clean and seal everything? Bushings are probably the same as the A6 if you have trouble finding them. Since it's out, are you going to reinforce the fuel tank vent that causes leaks on a full tank?
Please send me links or info on all of the above! I don’t know any of those!
 

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I meant the areas of rust for the sealing. The gas tank info is under the recall info, I can look late tonight. Mounting bushings; there are 2 for the back of the differential and one on the front. I believe they use the same bushing, but you have to look for a C5 A6 number. Here's a picture of the front mount bushing from mine and the poly replacement (not advised due to vibration).
Automotive tire Gas Household hardware Rim Composite material


Gas Bicycle part Circle Auto part Wood
 

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I meant the areas of rust for the sealing.
the poly replacement (not advised due to vibration).
Did you see my ‘light sanding’ of my disk brake dust shield I got from @Tortelious? Yes, this baby will be rust free. But I’m not satisfied with the brand of high heat black gloss paint I used: the finish is rapidly deteriorating. What is a good primer and paint brand to use that will survive a decent amount of time?

The poly mounts - I’ve heard of that and am avoiding those. Looking at Febi.
 

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Did you see my ‘light sanding’ of my disk brake dust shield I got from @Tortelious? Yes, this baby will be rust free. But I’m not satisfied with the brand of high heat black gloss paint I used: the finish is rapidly deteriorating. What is a good primer and paint brand to use that will survive a decent amount of time?

The poly mounts - I’ve heard of that and am avoiding those. Looking at Febi.
I wonder how Rust Bullet would hold up? It takes a lot of physical abuse well, used to undercoat aircooled VW pans.
 
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