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I need to get off my butt, grab a set of gauges, and recharge mine. Year 2 without air, but I only drive it about once a week. Hey, it took my 5 years to replace the windshield I cracked :LOL:.
My 98 GLS has a crack about 6 inches long right in my line of sight. That's been there at least a year maybe two.
Now that's something I really have to get done soon before rainy season starts here. The adhesive bonding on the glass to the body has been compromised and leaks copious amounts of water inside the car.

Have you ever broken something, and thought I should stop now.
Well that didn't happen. So I was fixing my headliner, and getting the proper grey rear view and parts installed on the wagon. While getting the very stuck tan mirror off, I scattered my windshield. Well I tried not to let it bother me. Then it escalated extremely quickly and before I knew it, I destroyed my shifter, ash tray, and the center console piece that holds them. 😡
Luckily I have an entire setup to use, but still.
When I was a dumb 20-something, I destroyed the windshield on my TR7. I was trying to pry off the chromed aluminum trim around the windshield with a flat blade screwdriver. Within seconds the windshield was toast. That was beginning of the end for that car.
I'm not proud of some of the mistakes and expensive at that I've made in my lifetime but at least I can man up and admit that I made them.
 

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Installed new plastic clips on the driver's door window regulator of my wife's car. Thank goodness for youtube. The clips came out in about 20 pieces so I had no idea how they went back in. Fortunately I found some old youtube videos that had enough pictures so I could figure it out. The door still fought me most of the way and I had a heck of a time trying to get the metal pieces that hold the window inserted into the clips. My hand strength just isn't there any more and they were a very tight fit. Now I need to decide whether or not to tackle the rear door window or put it off.
 

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When I was a dumb 20-something, I destroyed the windshield on my TR7. I was trying to pry off the chromed aluminum trim around the windshield with a flat blade screwdriver. Within seconds the windshield was toast. That was beginning of the end for that car.
I'm not proud of some of the mistakes and expensive at that I've made in my lifetime but at least I can man up and admit that I made them.
I didn't have an ice scraper in my 1st car while living in NJ, but I did have a hatchet. It left plenty of scratches across the windshield, but at least I made it to work.
I also didn't have a spare, a jack, or a lug wrench. Lost one front wheel after I bought the car and I found out the lugs were never torqued, then lost a couple of bolts from the other front wheel on the highway months later.
 
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I didn't have an ice scraper in my 1st car while living in NJ, but I did have a hatchet. It left plenty of scratches across the windshield, but at least I made it to work.
I also didn't have a spare, a jack, or a lug wrench. Lost one front wheel after I bought the car and I found out the lugs were never torqued, then lost a couple of bolts from the other front wheel on the highway months later.
My dad had a delivery car for his business and during the summer months I’d drive it for him so the regular driver could go on holidays. A 1981 Mazda 3. I was supposed to keep it topped up with oil as it had a leak and he didn’t want to pay for the repair; oil was cheap. Well. Coming back from a neighbouring city, what passes me but an RX7, Mustang, and Camaro, doing at least a buck-10. (That’s MPH at the time - no one cared about KPH). So. My teenage good common sense kicked in that I needed to keep up with these guys! (Of course, right!?!?) … ok, did you ever watch those war movies when the old Avro Manchester heavy bombers had an engine shot up and exploded in black smoke? Those babies had nuddin’ on this 3 when the engine blew. Later, we saw piston rods sticking out the side of the engine block, but from the front door handle back, and ten feet high, I was a blaze and a ball of black smoke at that speed and quickly came to a stop… it was sad when the engine actually just couldn’t anymore and completely seized…

but did I learn anything in all these years? A little while ago, I ‘popped’ the corner of the windshield on the Passat trying to pry off the wiper arm… sooo smart
 

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Not today, but yesterday. Drove it in to town and, of course, the ABS/BRAKE/ beep beep beep greeted me. I also noticed that the engine seemed to be lacking power and the transmission was shifting funny. Those were new symptoms and weren't happening the last time I replaced the ABS controller. So not it will sit until I get a chance to throw on a new controller. And I will try to rebuild the old ones - the repair doesn't look too difficult. The hardest part seems to be removing all that conformal coating from the circuit board components.
 

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Not today, but yesterday. Drove it in to town and, of course, the ABS/BRAKE/ beep beep beep greeted me. I also noticed that the engine seemed to be lacking power and the transmission was shifting funny. Those were new symptoms and weren't happening the last time I replaced the ABS controller. So not it will sit until I get a chance to throw on a new controller. And I will try to rebuild the old ones - the repair doesn't look too difficult. The hardest part seems to be removing all that conformal coating from the circuit board components.
If you know how to do this, might you consider just getting (making) a new circuit board and making a new one? Parts are parts, right? In my home town area, there is an electronic parts ‘superstore’ with isles of bins of resistors, cpu and/or logic gates, actuators (and so much more! Come on down!) And for any custom VAG item that doesn’t pass the test, find other used ones to scavenge and test?
 

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If you know how to do this, might you consider just getting (making) a new circuit board and making a new one? Parts are parts, right? In my home town area, there is an electronic parts ‘superstore’ with isles of bins of resistors, cpu and/or logic gates, actuators (and so much more! Come on down!) And for any custom VAG item that doesn’t pass the test, find other used ones to scavenge and test?
Way too much of a headache. The connections that cause the trouble are easy enough to repair, but there are also quite a few connections that use very very very fine ( hair thickness ) gold wire. They break easy just by trying to remove the conformal coating and that coating makes resoldering the pads damn near impossible.
 

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Noticed this while doing my monthly oil change, after putting a donor hatch with no rust and swapping the guts too.
I can’t tell what’s going on there - is that the front lower engine mount?
 

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I discovered the true reason for the rattle noise from the backend. The passenger rear alignment post hole in the subframe was compromised from not being tight, and it looks like some already tried to fix it:

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Wood Rim Bumper


so I’m practicing MIG welding and I gotta say, it’s
Wheel Automotive tire Rim Automotive wheel system Circle

super easy! My very first welds ever look absolutely perfect! I should switch careers, right?:cool::sneaky:

Well, maybe a bit more practice, just because it’s fun…
 

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Well, I pulled 2 ABS modules from the junkyard yesterday. I removed mine today and connected the "new" ones. VCDS couldn't communicate with either one. So I pulled 2 already broken modules or the communication problem is hiding somewhere in the wiring. I hate trouble-shooting electrical problems.
 

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I discovered the true reason for the rattle noise from the backend. The passenger rear alignment post hole in the subframe was compromised from not being tight, and it looks like some already tried to fix it:

View attachment 106456

so I’m practicing MIG welding and I gotta say, it’s View attachment 106457
super easy! My very first welds ever look absolutely perfect! I should switch careers, right?:cool::sneaky:

Well, maybe a bit more practice, just because it’s fun…
Making some popcorn there Rob? :p
 

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Well, I pulled 2 ABS modules from the junkyard yesterday. I removed mine today and connected the "new" ones. VCDS couldn't communicate with either one. So I pulled 2 already broken modules or the communication problem is hiding somewhere in the wiring. I hate trouble-shooting electrical problems.
So what, did the original just stop working / communicating?
 

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So what, did the original just stop working / communicating?
Yeah, the original gave me the ABS/BRAKE beep beep beep. This was before I had VCDS to tell me what exactly where the problem lied. It was also what I believe brought me to this site. Consensus was a faulty module, so I found one from the junkyard that was compatible and didn't need coding. That one lasted until a few days ago. Now that I have VCDS the code is 18014/P1606/005638 - Rough Road/Engine Torque Signal from ABS: Electrical Malfunction which comes back immediately after clearing. I'm gonna troubleshoot the connector to make sure that all the power and ground pins are powering and grounding.
 

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Rectangle Font Electric blue Circle Symmetry

Well, after a lot of dicking around I should have known that it would end up being an easy fix.
I should have thought more about the Rough Road error and that the beeping didn't happen immediately after starting the engine. It only beeped after I started moving.

Turns out that fuse #7 had a hairline break that sometimes completed the circuit & sometimes didn't.
I had to use a magnifying glass to verify this, but after putting in a new 10A fuse, problem solved.

I still have all the stuff I need to attempt to repair a known faulty module, so maybe I'll give it a shot and make a how-to.
 

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View attachment 106483
Well, after a lot of dicking around I should have known that it would end up being an easy fix.
I should have thought more about the Rough Road error and that the beeping didn't happen immediately after starting the engine. It only beeped after I started moving.

Turns out that fuse #7 had a hairline break that sometimes completed the circuit & sometimes didn't.
I had to use a magnifying glass to verify this, but after putting in a new 10A fuse, problem solved.

I still have all the stuff I need to attempt to repair a known faulty module, so maybe I'll give it a shot and make a how-to.
Glad you figured it out. I tend to lean on the method of just straight up replacing fuses even if they test good and advise to do the same when there isn't an obvious cause.
 
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Checked my obd2 live data, and found out that the iat was 96 Celsius and the coolant temp was 208 Celsius. The dash needle says 190?? Just another thing to throw money at, I suppose.
 

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Ignore it, it's normal. The gauge will sit at 190 despite the temp rising and falling a certain amount. It's when the gauge starts to go higher that you have to worry.
 
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Looked at the last Passat in the family last weekend. It's sitting most of the time as my son only goes to the office twice a week and takes their newer car. Dead battery and probably still under 100K on it.
 
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