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So I was able to get 5.5L of transmission fluid back into the car overall.. hmmm I wonder about that. Everyone says 6..

Also put on the summer tires
 

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As long as when you filled it per the whole procedure, and the oil level checks out by just dripping out with the drain plug removed, you'll be fine.
 

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5.5L is fine, I usually got 5.5-5.75L on most cars. I only managed more on my car when I blew out the lines to the cooler and let it drip overnight.
I used a 2gl pump spray tank with a metal wand that I bent into a hook shape to easily fill the cars since I did so many of them (several a year). I'll have to look to see how the Tiguan is done to see if I keep the bottle.
 

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I used a 2gl pump spray tank with a metal wand that I bent into a hook shape to easily fill the cars
Ditto. My spray tank was a brake bleeder. Works great although I do spend too much time and worry cleaning it when I switch between trans fluid and brake fluid.
 

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Re-connected the washer fluid hose that came undone when I swapped in a junkyard rear hatch on my daughter's wagon. You know the one....it's back by the Monsoon amp and there is a little plastic clip that the hose elbow clips into. There is about zero slack to it though so this time I put some heat shrink tubing on it to hold it together. I think that will work well since I couldn't budge it by tugging on it. This was about plan D. I tried some clamps, zip-ties and a few other things before reaching for the heat shrink. In retrospect, it was easy and made for a very solid connection.
 

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Re-connected the washer fluid hose that came undone when I swapped in a junkyard rear hatch on my daughter's wagon. You know the one....it's back by the Monsoon amp and there is a little plastic clip that the hose elbow clips into. There is about zero slack to it though so this time I put some heat shrink tubing on it to hold it together. I think that will work well since I couldn't budge it by tugging on it. This was about plan D. I tried some clamps, zip-ties and a few other things before reaching for the heat shrink. In retrospect, it was easy and made for a very solid connection.
My rear washer sprayer stopped working when I worked on the tailgate release long ago... I think I pinched the hose? If you hold the rear sprayer, nothing comes there, and eventually comes out the front sprayers!
 

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My problem was the little plastic elbow by the rear driver-side tail-light. You can access it by just removing the plastic cover in the back area. It's quite possible you have the same problem since that connector tends to come unplugged if you just look at it wrong. You should see an approx. 1/8" ID plastic tube coming down and connecting to an elbow. You might have to feel around for it since there is about zero slack on each side but it should be easy to find.
 

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The rear window washer never worked in my wagon. Somehow I never got around to fixing it over the 15 years I had it.
 

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I found about 1" of blue gelatin in the bottom of the compartment of my first wagon above where the elbow is. I guess it had been broken for a while.....
 

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I found about 1" of blue gelatin in the bottom of the compartment of my first wagon above where the elbow is. I guess it had been broken for a while.....
haha - no, I think mine is not broken - just pinched because it eventually 'backs-up' and squirts out the front jets if you keep holding it.
 

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For the 'special oil fill hose' I used a large diameter brake/fuel line with hook bend in it.
You get the award for most worked on car in this forum!!! I had to do my oil pick up tube and damn glad I did. Light came on and had that feeling. So I pulled the pan and those 2 bolts that need to use a wobble head socket were a treat to get out. Especially when one bolt falls in between the housing and gear - once while removing and once installing. Ugh. But it’s done. I’ll have to post pic of what I found!
 

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Before it gets too hot, I need a new temp switch (the one that goes in the lower front rad hose) and the matching rad fan... Mine are toast. oh, yeah, I need to get those two rad hoses - at least the lower one as it's lookin' pretty shaggy... Oh, and the wacky serpentine pulley (with the hidden 5mm and 6mm hex head bolts) the viscous fan attaches to; that bearing seems shot and just spins - oh, and I need new rear brake disks as they're lookin' a bit lippy - oh and a part of the wiring harness for the passenger fog light - it's ripped off and I tried to repair it by my soldering gun isn't hot enough... oh yeah, I need to re-attach the heat shields above the cats and beside the gas tank as those are floppin around makin noise.. .. nuhhhh enough...
 

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You get the award for most worked on car in this forum!!! I had to do my oil pick up tube and damn glad I did. Light came on and had that feeling. So I pulled the pan and those 2 bolts that need to use a wobble head socket were a treat to get out. Especially when one bolt falls in between the housing and gear - once while removing and once installing. Ugh. But it’s done. I’ll have to post pic of what I found!
 

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what is that stuck in there?
 

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X2, what the heck is that shaving of whatever?
 

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You get the award for most worked on car in this forum!!!
Hmm, don't know about that. But there for a while it seemed as though I was pulling engines just for fun. :cool:
 

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I did a bit on my car, the suspension (3 times), the engine (2x), the trans (3x), the full dash harness, but I had it for 15 years.

That looks like sealant from the oil pan.
 

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I today had one of those rare cases where everything made sense and the fix actually seems to work. Got a CEL with the P0456 code. Already had replaced the o-ring on the gas cap so checked the EVAP purge valve. Car has 210k miles and still had the original valve. Used a hand vacuum pump to test and indeed had a slow leak. Ordered a new part, received it today, and installed it. Then ran block 071 and now seems to be fixed. Reset the fault codes so hopefully will be back to normal tomorrow. Got to use my tools, was quick, and actually seems to have fixed the issue.
 
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