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Had some time to throw some black on the hood. Just need to sand it now. And wash the poor thing. The green is dirty from the primer.
View attachment 100984

I'm also going to paint the front of the bumper inside of the headlight area to match the hood. I went with flat black.
Also, does anyone know what green this is? The tag in the trunk is gone.
Glad to see cchief22 advised ya in color. I have same one an 03’ with 84k on it. Always leaking oil and always has a light on the dash. Call it a love/hate relationship. Food luck. Should redo those headlights one time. I used the Turtlewax headlight lense restorer and it worked great for $15 bucks 👍.
Good luck on the progress
 

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I have a kit to redo them, but I'm replacing them with a set from a W8 most likely.
I am also going to redo it to follow the hood line and repaint it in green. So now just have to do the bumper, roof, and decklid in black.
 

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Oil change. 82k and there are zero leaks or seepage on this car. :) I did notice the hose from the brake booster vacuum pump thingy was missing a clamp so I added that. I don't think I ever touched that particular hose so it must have been that way for some time (bought the car at 59k). Emissions tomorrow so I'll have to clear the MIL. It's from a very small leak intermittent in the fuel tank somewhere but after 3 gas caps I've decided to live with it until I can drop the tank. Fortunately, here in CO, if the MIL is off the car will pass even if the readiness for that system isn't set yet.
 

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Came to Florida. Tried to resuscitate the dead battery on my 98. It was bone dry.

Put some distilled water. No avail!

The trickle charger won’t be able to charge above 8V and shows bad battery.





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No way would I mess with a battery. Just buy new.
 

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Replaced the smashed chrome trim above driver’s side front marker light. Slowly upgrading everything back to ‘normal’. I will have to replace the bumper cover at some point.. it’s working for now, but too many broken bits in there to ultimately be a good job and connect to the car properly.

101049
 

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When I accelerate, there’s a bunch of rattling under the car.. heat shield loose? Muffler loose? It’s like a squirrel trying to hold on to the drive shaft when I get going - oh sorry, ahem.. like a beaver holding on... (this is Canada after all)
 

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Could be heat shields or something rubbing.
Did you replace the axles? the struts? Those are the items come to my mind that would make noise accelerating.


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I had a flex plate rub against a heat shield between the trans and engine once that only occurred when accelerating hard. That was after I replaced the trans so probably not your problem.

I'd guess the new motor mount install moved something a bit and when you accelerate, the engine moves enough due to torque to rub up on something. You could look for wear marks on any parts close to things that rotate since they will probably only rub when the engine is torqued.

PS, the car looks great and it's been fun following your progress!
 

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no motor mounts replaced... The noise is only at the back of the car. Even if I just go over a light bump to jostle the backend, it's like there's a couple of loose plates slapping together in the back as I go over the bump
 

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One thing to check, you've got a wagon so I don't know if it's the same, but on the sedans, the muffler in the rear has the pipe going into it front, center. The mufflers tend rust / rot out around that pipe joint and the muffler will delaminate. It might be that extra skin flopping around.

The other thing that comes to mind is the thin metal extension piece that holds the rear of the plastic belly pan.
That thing makes a twangy noise when the belly pan is NOT installed when running over bumps and such.
But that's in the front of the car, you say yours is coming from the rear.
 
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Then heat shields to the rear of the car end up corroding away where they attach. Does the noise increase or decrease when pulling through the drive thru at Tim Hortons.......could be a clue .......
 

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no motor mounts replaced... The noise is only at the back of the car. Even if I just go over a light bump to jostle the backend, it's like there's a couple of loose plates slapping together in the back as I go over the bump
The rear top shock mounts can make a clunk over bumps once they wear out.

This part: Rear Shock Mount - Priced Each
 

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Then heat shields to the rear of the car end up corroding away where they attach. Does the noise increase or decrease when pulling through the drive thru at Tim Hortons.......could be a clue .......
Well, I actually hate Timmies coffee. They used to have good coffee, but switched out to cheaper stuff to save money. Interestingly, McD’s is smarter and picked up the old supplier. So If I’m not close to Rogue Coffee in Saint John, or the Urban Almanac in Fredi (Fredericton), then I dont mind a McD coffee.

Any small bump at slow speeds makes the back end sound like metal plates slapping together.
 

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ATQ V6: How do you tune the hot engine so it doesn’t idle at 500 rpm? It gets jumpy down there. Is correct idle around 920 RPM?
 

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Took some pics of the Knight Rider in Florida sun.









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Now... now I have that theme music running through my head... thanks

Beautiful car though, even if it’s not a wagon. Looks like you’re making do.:sneaky:
 
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ATQ V6: How do you tune the hot engine so it doesn’t idle at 500 rpm? It gets jumpy down there. Is correct idle around 920 RPM?

From a few years back

Normal idle speed for the V6 is:
AHA FWD = 740 - 860 rpm
ATQ FWD = 710 - 860 rpm
ATQ AWD = 620 - 740 rpm

Here's a link to adjust with a VAG-COM. Ross-Tech: VAG-COM: VW Passat B5 Info

I have mine set to 790 - 800 rpm which provides a very smooth idle. If I drop to around 740 rpm, I feel more vibration. There's virtually no difference in vibration once I go about 800 rpm.
 
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Got a little done in 3 hours with a lot of help from Kevin, AKA "Twowagens" again. I tried yesterday and my asthma was so bad I did not even make it out to the garage. It was still pretty bad today, but we managed to pull the upper control arm mounting plate off the donor. Despite the stuck pinch bolt, I kept the lower shock attached to the control arm, removed the 3 bolts holding the plate to the body and pulled it down enough to get the inner bolts off the control arms. Then I removed the 2 nuts holding the mounting plate to the shock. Not the easy way, but better than heating or drilling a pinch bolt. I swapped new arms onto the good plate and put my old plate into the donor (with 1 stripped mounting hole).
I managed to get the upper arms attached to the spindle and torqued, but that was all for the day as I could not breathe and my back (pinched nerve) really started to hurt.
With any luck (and lots of meds), I will be able to finish this week. Tires need to be put on, oil change needs to be done after 1200 miles and 22 months (it was out of commission for 10 months) and I will install the H&R 32mm front sway bar I've been sitting on as well as finally put the 6pt upper strut bar back in. It's been out of the car ever since the motor swap 5 years ago. Depending on the handling, I still have the 24mm Hotchkis RS6 rear sway bar I can put back in. With the stock front bar, it had a bit too much oversteer. Fun in the dry, but dangerous when wet.
 
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