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Update:

So far so good. The metal flange has no leak.

I don’t know if it is a coincidence but with the new coolant temperature sensor, the engine runs considerably smoother.

The vcds shows the coolant temp stays at 93 and drops as low as 88-89. It used to go up to 100.

bled the system, tested the heat. It blows at about. 180F. I can’t keep my hand on the vent more than 5 sec!

Fingers crossed.


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I have a stupid question.
Why is the bottom flange on the aluminum opposite the one on the plastic but the other features look to be the same?

100354
 
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Go back to your V6 and W8 engines :p The 1.8T has 2 bolts on the flanges and the flanges are just at different angles to the camera.
 
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You just gave me a heart attack Dave. :)

I was thinking how it isn’t leaking if I used the wrong part LOL




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Go back to your V6 and W8 engines :p The 1.8T has 2 bolts on the flanges and the flanges are just at different angles to the camera.
touché
 
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You just gave me a heart attack Dave. :)

I was thinking how it isn’t leaking if I used the wrong part LOL




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Sorry about that buddy. Carry on.
 

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When I replaced my coolant flange a few weeks ago, the old 'o-rings' were various shapes, none of them round. I do remember a square one, one that was sort of flatted and triangular shaped and one that was just disintegrated. Somehow, some of the connections on the flanges just seem to distort the o-rings. Hopefully the new ones will last long enough, I don't want to do that job again.
 

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I replaced all the calipers, rotors and pads with the complete Powerstop OE kit from Rock Auto this past weekend. I had to bleed the brakes twice. The first time, I don't think the back end of the car was completely level or slightly above the front - I got the STOP warning and the pedal feel was not returning. The 2nd time through, it was properly elevated, and a lot more air came through the front lines - now the pedal feels right, again.

Now on to replacing the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder and interconnect line to try and get a better clutch feel.

Also, seeing some of the recent posts here on coolant leaks...I have slight drip now out the passenger side (I'm at 120k miles now). Hopefully that can hold off without too much coolant use until the timing belt needs to be done again.
 

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I replaced all the calipers, rotors and pads with the complete Powerstop OE kit from Rock Auto this past weekend. I had to bleed the brakes twice. The first time, I don't think the back end of the car was completely level or slightly above the front - I got the STOP warning and the pedal feel was not returning. The 2nd time through, it was properly elevated, and a lot more air came through the front lines - now the pedal feels right, again.

Now on to replacing the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder and interconnect line to try and get a better clutch feel.

Also, seeing some of the recent posts here on coolant leaks...I have slight drip now out the passenger side (I'm at 120k miles now). Hopefully that can hold off without too much coolant use until the timing belt needs to be done again.
The calipers i got from RockAuto began to rust the next week. And now completely rusted out.
they refused to replace them.



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The calipers i got from RockAuto began to rust the next week. And now completely rusted out.
they refused to replace them.
Yeah, I don't hold my breath with these staying rust free. But, they gotta work better than the ones I took off - the rear pads on one side were losing chunks of friction material out of the middle of the pads.
 

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The calipers i got from RockAuto began to rust the next week. And now completely rusted out.
they refused to replace them.



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I could be wrong, but I don't think they have a warranty against rust. Either way, get some caliper paint, brush them down heavily, clean them and give them a spray.
 
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Had the RF window fall down on my son's sedan in Austin. Since regulators are so cheap now ($34 shipped), I just ordered one and will drive down next week to swap it. I think I have spare clips in the garage, but I don't want to get down there and find I needed a regulator due to a bad pulley. I had that happen on my own car a few years ago. I am also bringing a spare window (just in case) as he said it fell inside completely.
He just got a new battery, oil change and tire valves replaced. He mostly works from home now, but the battery kept dying and at least 1 tire kept getting low.

I also ordered a new alternator for my car. I'll try to fix it as it's been sitting for 4 months. After that, onto the Golf and my other son's wagon (needs to be prepped for sale).
 

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I could be wrong, but I don't think they have a warranty against rust. Either way, get some caliper paint, brush them down heavily, clean them and give them a spray.
It isn’t normal to see the calipers develop serious rust the next week I received them. Actually there were some rust spots on them even in their boxes.
Anyways. Lesson learned.

Caliper painting is on the horizon.


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Chewbacca at hyper speed.
 

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It isn’t normal to see the calipers develop serious rust the next week I received them. Actually there were some rust spots on them even in their boxes.
Anyways. Lesson learned.

Caliper painting is on the horizon.


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Rebuilt or new, they likely do not have the coating your OEM ones came with. It's not uncommon.
 
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Few weeks ago I cleaned the whole engine bay (included drain holes). Few days ago just replaced the oil pressure sensor, and today I ordered Sparco Settanta pedals because the current one is very slippery, I hope it will solve this issue. Also I found something cool: Car pedal covers Volkswagen Passat B5 v2 manual | eBay

I think I'll replace the EGR sealings on the next week, but we'll see.
 

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Those pedal covers are cool!
Alas, they have none for us two-pedal drivers. :(
I think if you send him a message about that he can make a two-pedal set for you. Its worth a try.
I am not sure why, but I ordered the Sparco instead of that custom pedal set. I'm starting to regret it. :(
 
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