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Yesterday before I found out my new turbo had a dub wastegate and my day was ruined I finished my new intake setup. Built a little bracket so my intake doesn't flop around like an uncooked hot dog when I rage. Put a little edge trim on it to keep from tearing into nearby hoses.



Personally, I would have appreciated a video of the uncooked hotdog flapping of the intake, but you don’t always get what you want do you?
 

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True story, wife as my witness.
I had a simular problem last year on our way to work one day. Our trip to work is 13 miles one way. 10 of that is freeway. When I exited the freeway the car suddenly started running like absolute crap. Missing, low idle, no power.
At the end of the day we jump in the car and take surface streets, I thought the car would never make it home. Every stop light the idle would drop well below 500, had to feathering the gas pedal to keep it running. Finally get home, scanned it, a boat load of codes. Fuel trims, misfires, cam positions, MAF. I cleared the codes and left it for the next day for any work needed to be done.
Next day I go out to the car and start it up so I could see some measuring blocks in VCDS. It ran like nothing ever happened. To this day I have no idea what the deal was or why it would suddenly do that and then 'fix' itself. I just smirkishly folded up my laptop and went back inside. Told the wife "cars fixed". 😬

How can the car run so horribly one day and the next be just fine?
Pretty much purposely forgot about the event and I'm in a state of denial admitting (to myself) that it ever happened. I figure that way it'll never happen again.:unsure:
All I can hear in my own head is Gordon Ramsey saying "your in complete denial".

I know this is of absolutely no help to you, but I am really curious to know if you come up with a solution.
Classic computer problem? “Have you tried turning it off and on again?” (IT Crowd) In this case, resetting the codes did it, or if someone disconnects the battery for more than 8 hours, the engine management computer reboots and figures everything out from scratch?
 

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Man, shit hit the fan today! Started her up and the idle was down around 500rpm. Revved it up and things seemed fine. On the way back from the junkyard, it began hesitating when accelerating. Had to give it a lot of gas just to get moving, but once it shifted out of 1st gear it drove normally. Pulling into the driveway, it began loping severely. And, of course the CEL was on. Scanned and got :
17535/17537 Fuel Trim Bank 1/Bank 2 (Mult) System too Rich, sporadic.
17544/17546 Fuel Trim Bank 1/Bank 2 (Add) System too Lean, sporadic
16684 Random/Mult. Cylinder Misfire Detected
16687 Cyl 3, Misfire Detected
16689 Cyl 5, Misfire Detected
16690 Cyl 6, Misfire Detected

We had a lot of rain over the last few days and I hadn't driven the Passat during that time. Hope it's just moisture causing this. Will pull the plug wires and apply some more dielectric grease to both ends. Yet another weekend of troubleshooting.
before I replaced me coil pack on my v6, I would have WAY WAY WAY more misfires after rain than when dry.
Of course, since VCGs and coil pack were replaced (as well as wires and plugs, before the coil pack) I have had no misfires.
 

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Hi,

First of all, great car! I wish I had a wagon 😅 I'm wondering where you found that red pipe going to the air filter in the first picture?
Thanks, Ive always been a lover of wagons. I got the intake on Ebay. If you search for 1.8t Silicone Intake/TIP you will find it.

V6. Only the AEB had an ICM
MY bad I meant to say coil packs.

True story, wife as my witness.
I had a simular problem last year on our way to work one day. Our trip to work is 13 miles one way. 10 of that is freeway. When I exited the freeway the car suddenly started running like absolute crap. Missing, low idle, no power.
At the end of the day we jump in the car and take surface streets, I thought the car would never make it home. Every stop light the idle would drop well below 500, had to feathering the gas pedal to keep it running. Finally get home, scanned it, a boat load of codes. Fuel trims, misfires, cam positions, MAF. I cleared the codes and left it for the next day for any work needed to be done.
Next day I go out to the car and start it up so I could see some measuring blocks in VCDS. It ran like nothing ever happened. To this day I have no idea what the deal was or why it would suddenly do that and then 'fix' itself. I just smirkishly folded up my laptop and went back inside. Told the wife "cars fixed". 😬

How can the car run so horribly one day and the next be just fine?
Pretty much purposely forgot about the event and I'm in a state of denial admitting (to myself) that it ever happened. I figure that way it'll never happen again.:unsure:
All I can hear in my own head is Gordon Ramsey saying "your in complete denial".

I know this is of absolutely no help to you, but I am really curious to know if you come up with a solution.
Could it be something like water ingress in the Comfort Control Module?
 

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Well, it fired up and idled like the problems yesterday were all a figment of my imagination. Figures.

I was going to remove each individual coil to check their wiring, but I guess that they are not serviceable. Instead of removing the entire assembly, I think I'll leave well-enough alone.
 

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It's not uncommon to have cracked wires at or next to the coils. I had that and a cracked lock inside the connector that allowed the car to idle fine, but had too much resistance to fire under throttle.
 
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I have mostly dewalt and tekton. Even if I have done something stupid, and totally not their fault, they have replaced anything quickly.

Hell dewalt replaced a 5mm hex 3/8 socket that I lost (and I told them I lost it in the back of my engine bay) for free.
 

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New engine and cabin air filter. Finishing paint layer on the front bumper and prepping for clear-coat. Ordered both front fog light assemblies on Amazon for $75 CAD total, which includes the $17 CAD shipping fee and 15% tax. Going to pick up both front marker lights, bulbs and fog light grills from the dealer (all WAY cheaper than any online aftermarket price). Busy busy busy
 

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Today was rather disappointing. Looked over at the passenger side door panel and noticed that is beginning to come loose behind the grab handle.
99706

I am hoping that I can pull the panel then remove the handle to shoot some adhesive into the area.
 

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Today was rather disappointing. Looked over at the passenger side door panel and noticed that is beginning to come loose behind the grab handle.
View attachment 99706
I am hoping that I can pull the panel then remove the handle to shoot some adhesive into the area.
I hate to break it to you, but that won't fix it. The foam backing disintegrates and no amount of adhesive will hold the vinyl to the panel. You'll need to pull it off, clean it, reapply some foam and glue it all back together. I know. I'm at that point on all 4 doors.
 

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I hate to break it to you, but that won't fix it. The foam backing disintegrates and no amount of adhesive will hold the vinyl to the panel. You'll need to pull it off, clean it, reapply some foam and glue it all back together. I know. I'm at that point on all 4 doors.
Is it that much of a pain in the ass that you haven't yet tackled this job? If that handle section comes free from the rest of the panel, it shouldn't be that bad. I guess it's back to the salvage yard for a guinea pig.
 

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Is it that much of a pain in the ass that you haven't yet tackled this job? If that handle section comes free from the rest of the panel, it shouldn't be that bad. I guess it's back to the salvage yard for a guinea pig.
I don't drive it as often so I have put it off the last couple-three years. Yes. At least a couple hours a door.

Don't cheap out. Use foam or a foam backed replacement fabric/vinyl. That plastic armrest area is HARD. Very uncomfortable on the elbow.
 

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Fixed wagon tailgate lock... I couldn’t open the rear door without racing from the driver’s side door after flicking the switch in the door. So the lock actuator motor worked. Something else didn’t. So I pulled apart the whole backend to find out. The main problem was that dirt wasn’t allowing the finger grip release latch to be in a ‘resting’ mode, or off position. The computer always things you’re holding the handle and never let it go. You can easily take it apart and it breaks down to a rubber sock cover, an open metal box, and a metal hinge panel with a pointy part that clicks a button on the box part:

99740


That’s actually an image of a video where you can hear it going clickity-click.

The second part of the issue is the clamp that holds it into place. The clamp was too tight and being too tight, it forced the rubber sock to also engage the switch once more making the computer think you’ve never let go of the handle:

99741


here, I scrapped off all the rust and gave it a coat of Tremclad rust paint and also some grease. Anyway, when installing, tighten the sides (T-25) only until the switch doesn’t work, then ease off a little until it does.

Finally, I paint matched the lock to the car colour:

99742


This picture was when I was trying to get the key slot to work again as it was completely gummed up with dirt. I used both brake cleaner and PB Blaster to get it functional again...


Now all locking and unlocking functions via finger release handle, key, and electronic fob all work again. The computer thanks you for finally letting go of the handle... it’s actually funny how other functions on the car now work - sounds I’ve never heard before.
 

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Not today, but yesterday. Drove the wife's Passat to the Audi dealer to show it what's in store for it's near future.
Test drove an 2010 Audi A6 3.0T Premium. Wow, what a car. I must have one. That is a lot of car for the price point they are now at. I now see why many of the veterans go over to the dark side.
Going to kick the 2002 GLX to the curb and get something newer, waaay more comfortable, reliable and gets better MPG's.
 
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Not today, but yesterday. Drove the wife's Passat to the Audi dealer to show it what's in store for it's near future.
Test drove an 2010 Audi A6 3.0T Premium. Wow, what a car. I must have one. That is a lot of car for the price point they are now at. I now see why many of the veterans go over to the dark side.
Going to kick the 2002 GLX to the curb and get something newer, waaay more comfortable, reliable and gets better MPG's.
A chip will put it in the mid-300s in HP. Kind of wish we got our Q5 with the 3.0T.
 
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