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That's too bad, PZ. But I know the feeling of having too many vehicles and not enough time to drive them all.
I am juggling my Passat, a Dakota, and a Yukon. I bought 3 solar battery chargers and keep them all connected so I don't have dead batteries if I forget to show 1 or more of them the attention they deserve.
 

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Changed the oil in Edward. His brother, Klaus (2015 A4) got a new battery after the 6-year-old original one started coughing (dropped to 10V on starting). On the plus side, when I pulled the cowl cover to find that the battery isn’t there, I discovered a growing compost heap, so I cleaned out the leaves just like I had learned from this site.
 

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Changed the oil in Edward. His brother, Klaus (2015 A4) got a new battery after the 6-year-old original one started coughing (dropped to 10V on starting). On the plus side, when I pulled the cowl cover to find that the battery isn’t there, I discovered a growing compost heap, so I cleaned out the leaves just like I had learned from this site.
So you discovered that it's in the trunk under the spare tire, eh? Look into having it adapted to the car for efficient charging and voltage monitoring.
 

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Battery died while heading around the lake to Richard's
Even if the battery dies while you are driving, wouldn't the alternator supply the needed juice for the car's operation until you stop?
 

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Even if the battery dies while you are driving, wouldn't the alternator supply the needed juice for the car's operation until you stop?
Yes and no.
The older vehicles, yes you could get away this. Once the engine was running, the alternator / generator would charge the battery and supply electrical current to keep the engine running no matter what.

The newer vehicles need some kind of voltage input to the alternator for sensing. The electrical systems are much more involved / complex now-a-days.
 

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That's too bad, PZ. But I know the feeling of having too many vehicles and not enough time to drive them all.
I am juggling my Passat, a Dakota, and a Yukon. I bought 3 solar battery chargers and keep them all connected so I don't have dead batteries if I forget to show 1 or more of them the attention they deserve.
Yeah, I drive it every 7-10 days if possible, but it's usually only a few miles to the store. Now my wife is healed enough to drive, so I don't even need to drive it. She does not want to run errands in it at all as she does not trust it. Every time she has made a similar statement, we have sold (or junked) the car.

Even if the battery dies while you are driving, wouldn't the alternator supply the needed juice for the car's operation until you stop?
I never bothered to check what it was doing as I thought it was the instrument cluster (yes, I've been very lazy). I've only driven it a couple of times since it started over 7 weeks ago, even then it was less than 20 miles total. The bad battery could have caused the alternator workshop light as it would not charge, but it's possible the alternator overcharged and cooked the battery too. It's also possible the alternator was just bad and it took 20 miles of driving to kill the battery.
 

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The newer vehicles need some kind of voltage input to the alternator for sensing. The electrical systems are much more involved / complex now-a-days.
Yes but it's not like the car suddenly drops dead if the battery dies. The ride would be rough but still can get you to somewhere for repair (not very long distance though).
 

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I never bothered to check what it was doing as I thought it was the instrument cluster (yes, I've been very lazy). I've only driven it a couple of times since it started over 7 weeks ago, even then it was less than 20 miles total. The bad battery could have caused the alternator workshop light as it would not charge, but it's possible the alternator overcharged and cooked the battery too. It's also possible the alternator was just bad and it took 20 miles of driving to kill the battery.
My guess is more that because you didn't drive it long enough to fully charge the battery it happened.
 

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Well, I plan to put most of this back together over the next couple of nights.
new T-stat/housing/tb/cam seals/cctgs/valley seals (vcgs are new and in good shape, will clean and reinstall)

98754


As you can see in this pic (and I checked the other side with a mirror) there do not seem to be any valley seals at all, could explain a lot.
98753

pretty sure there should be a seal in there.

question, since I have it this far apart, and I have a set of brushes for the voltage regulator for the alternator, should I go ahead and swap those out or don't bother touching it if I don't need to?
 

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Um, yeah, the cam plugs (half-moon seals) are definitely missing. I can't say that I've yet seen an engine that actually spat them clear out of the heads....

You're doing a PCV rebuild on it, too, while it's apart? ;)
 

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You're doing a PCV rebuild on it, too, while it's apart? ;)
PCV (all the sections) was cleaned completely when the VCGs were replaced less than 5k miles ago. pancake valve and the valve above the air intake were also replaced. plugs were done then too, wires were done, coil pack has been replaced (after everything else was still having misfires on cyl 2, new coil pack, no issues since). parts of the vacuum system were fixed last year but will do all the hoses now that everything is apart.
 

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It’s easy to pop off the regulator and take a look at the length left on the brushes. That’ll tell you if you should replace them or not and to get a good look at the condition of the split rings and clean them up if need be. Can’t hurt.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Yes but it's not like the car suddenly drops dead if the battery dies. The ride would be rough but still can get you to somewhere for repair (not very long distance though).
It all happened within a mile. Rpm and speedo froze, then throttle cut to high idle and finally car bucked and stopped running. Driving was much the same as it's been for over a year, 3-4 miles once or twice a week, but slightly less as my wife could not drive and I had to add her car into the mix. The Tiguan gets a once weekly 20 mile drive to the allergist for shots.
 

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Well, I plan to put most of this back together over the next couple of nights.
new T-stat/housing/tb/cam seals/cctgs/valley seals (vcgs are new and in good shape, will clean and reinstall)

View attachment 98754

As you can see in this pic (and I checked the other side with a mirror) there do not seem to be any valley seals at all, could explain a lot.
View attachment 98753
pretty sure there should be a seal in there.

question, since I have it this far apart, and I have a set of brushes for the voltage regulator for the alternator, should I go ahead and swap those out or don't bother touching it if I don't need to?
The half moon seal is there, it's just covered in grime. They shrink over time due to the heat cycling, they are right near the cats.

I would go ahead and swap the alternator brushes in. I wish I had swapped in my spare V6 alternator into my son's car while it was here last year. His alternator died several months later on the road. Now it's going to into my car.
 

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The half moon seal is there, it's just covered in grime. They shrink over time due to the heat cycling, they are right near the cats.
That pic is from the driver's side, so it's nowhere near cat on that side :)

Many thanks for the input regarding the brushes.

I'll post again as things progress and I get a chance. My one day off the next week is this Sunday.
 

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I thought it might be as it looked like the metal plug is in the coolant port. The cam caps are on the back on both sides. I find the oil leaks start every 3-4 years depending on mileage, even with a clean PCV.
 

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I thought it might be as it looked like the metal plug is in the coolant port. The cam caps are on the back on both sides. I find the oil leaks start every 3-4 years depending on mileage, even with a clean PCV.
oh they were leaking slowly....but not sure when, the driver's cap either popped off or something, because there is a ton of oil back there now.

This pic is from one of the sides, and both looked this way. Right now the driver's side is way worse.

98755


Yes, the cam caps are also being replaced. I had lost the original pair that came with the Blauparts kit, so I ordered two more from RA, lost those, immediately found the first set. they are now taped to the car.
 

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Well, I plan to put most of this back together over the next couple of nights.
Every time I see a picture of a car in this situation I get so incredibly intimidated by its sheer task of getting it back together in a way that it runs normal again. I would never for the life of me be able to do it.

question, since I have it this far apart, and I have a set of brushes for the voltage regulator for the alternator, should I go ahead and swap those out or don't bother touching it if I don't need to?
If it were me I would have definitely changed them. It is a cheap yet valuable insurance against a failing alternator (of course the bearing still can give up).
 
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