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Here is a shot of the left side strip removed from the windshield.3
The blue dashes is where the weather strip snaps into place.
The plastic piece by windshield is held into place when they 'cement' the window to the body of the car.

If your window is leaking, it can only come from the 'cement' adhesive that has pulled away or cracked underneath the glass, not from the weather striping.

98410
 

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2004 B5.5 Variant 1.8T
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By the way, the “cement” is Urethane. Sika is one of the more popular brands the pros use.


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Thought about buying a new battery. Also thought I would research if any size other than 47/48 would fit in that space w/o having to remove the windshield cowl. No top-post alternatives, but a side-post #78 had slightly less depth, although probably not enough to prevent damage to that cowl while lifting it in/out. Plus, the +/- terminals were reversed.
And what the hell were they thinking using 2 gauge negative but only 6 gauge for positive?

While cleaning up the grounding point, I noticed that the battery tray should have a hold-down bracket. The one from my GMC Yukon did the trick.

Also noticed that the heater core hoses are leaking again. Though I had that problem solved. Have some t-bolt hose clamps coming tomorrow.
 

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There was a hold-down bracket - a weird stamping probably designed by the ‘95 intern who is a senior manager at Audi now.
 

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Managed to replace the Engine Speed/Crankshaft Position Sensor on the '03 wagon. Threw a code and was giving me starting issues. If I let it sit more than a half hour I could start it, but it obviously needed to be replaced. Removing it's mounting bolt was easy after getting the coolant tank out of the way, but because of it's location, I had trouble pulling it out of the bore (could get my hand on it and spin it). I was doing an oil change anyway, so I had the oil filter off. Still, I didn't have enough leverage room until I also moved the oil cooler out of the way. All good now.
 

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Ordered new heater core coolant hoses. After all the work I did to get the heater core flushed out, the hose ends loosened up so much that they no longer allow a leak-proof seal against the heater core pipes. For a stop-gap repair, I cut back the stock hose and installed a hose barb and a section of new heater hose. I ditched the hose clamps and used spring-type clips. Seems to be holding up.

While waiting for the new hoses, it looks like I need to do a lot of hand yoga in preparation for getting at those lower connection points.

I would surely appreciate any tricks/pointers on how best to do this swap.

Thanks.
 

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Just note that the heater hose problem could also be a heater core problem. The plastic inlet pipe cracks and starts to leak once engine gets to temperature.
 

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98523

Day #2 with my new Passat! Got the windows slightly tinted and did a simple wipe down. Planning to do the headlights and tailights next.
 
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