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Thank you for posting this alternate process! I hate having to fight with the clamp also! I will have to try this the next time I am changing a CV boot.
This was the most difficult boot ever, I've had a few that I had to extend (flatten) the crimp section to get it to close. This still would not go and I have another one that I still need to swap. For some reason, the new GKN CV joint with boot did not have this issue when I installed in on my oldest son's sedan.
 

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Fixed the hoist and test fitted the 2.0 in the donor with the V6 front carrier and the B6 A4 style snub bracket. Did not line up as I had hoped. I could have a plate welded in and drilled. Then tried the V6 snub bracket, looks like it would work if I use a 2x2x4 Aluminum block behind it to bolt it to the block and oil pan.
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97844


The V6 snub with only 1 bolt:
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If you need some custom machining...
I know it's difficult because of the distance between us.
 

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Paul, The snub cup that mounts to the carrier should take up a good bit of that distance.

The B6 A4 snub was so easy to change out. All I needed to do was unbolt the bracket from the oil pan.
 

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Picked up TCM harness "plug" at a local pull-a-part last summer and finally finished potting the wiring today.....concept is to check the complete wiring from TCM to; range sensor, transmission speed sensors, and internal solenoids for continuity and resistance with the ability to identify, verify, hardware problems...with a multimeter and/or megger...you can do it with a magnifying glass and powerful flashlight including an extra set of hands, not to mention micro probes etc. but this way I have some large easily identified terminals. and all I do is "plug" it in to terminus of TCM harness. Omitted non functional terminals
 

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You didn’t steal your megg from a Navy engine room did you? I didn’t think those things existed anywhere else.
You have to be careful stealing those things,LOL, two known sources Navy and Ebay . They are great for checking insulation integrity in wet conditions , like the interiors of Passats
 

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PZ, those are excellent pictures of the CV boot. A wild question I have about CV boots is do you all know anyone who found a small crack in the boot and instead of changing it, used a silicone glob to close it?
I used shoe goo about a month ago on the outermost face of my passenger inner CV boot. I cleaned it with acetone and applied over the crack which ran along the face like an arch. So far it's holding ok but the material is hard and not flexible. If I had to apply over one of the boot ridges I doubt it would work, it's just not that flexible and could cause the boot to break apart. I think you would need to do some research to find some liquid rubber material that cures really flexible to make it last.

For my passenger outer CV boot I had a full detach at the small end by the clamp. I used self fusing silicone tape to repair, and I'm sure that one is not going to last just because silicone tape has to be stretched to fuse and also very clean and it was just impossible to do that properly, it constantly got debris on it when I would wrap it around. I got it done but crushed the small end of the boot in the process. So that one is definitely going to have to be redone in the summer.
 

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Got the old V6 short block back in the donor with the old 4Mo trans attached. The bracket I made to hold the trans is a bit low as the tail of the trans sits about 3" or less off the ground. I'll have to pick up some metal or chain to hold it up enough. I cleared out everything of value from the hatch and pulled an old B5 rear twist beam (bent) from the attic and dropped it into the hatch. I still have to pull the steering rack and maybe the tail lights along with cleaning out the boxes of old headlights from the front seats.
Of course, this was after I pulled a bunch of storage containers from the attic as it's time to decorate for Christmas. My legs and feet are sore from climbing the ladder and crawling around above the garage so much. Now I have to figure out how to hang the lights with the new siding and metal covering all of the old wood. (I used to have bent nails to hang it all).
 

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….. Now I have to figure out how to hang the lights with the new siding and metal covering all of the old wood. (I used to have bent nails to hang it all).
I would go with 3M Command hooks. They even have a line made specifically for Christmas decorations (clear hooks, as well as wire clips.)
 

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That should work great. Now I have to find something for the brick sections that no longer have a downspout to tie them to.
 

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Got a call late last night from son #2. He had the alternator light come on and was in the middle of nowhere (north of Piqua,Ohio) while driving from Ft. Wayne back to Cincinnati. Luckily he found a place for the night before the battery died. He found a shop that would change it, but they ran out of time today. He is supposed to drive to Charleston, WV on Thusday. He might rent a car, not sure. I hate to think how much this would cost as I have a spare in the garage with new brushes :(
 

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Yep, it really stinks when the kids have a car break down on them. My daughter had a fuel pump go out on one of our Passat's while she was driving a team of kids to some tournament somewhere in Kansas or something. Luckily, she was a gas station at the time so it was fixed quickly but it was a $500+ repair bill IIRC, which is pretty steep for a fuel pump!
 

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I had similar situation years ago. Back in 2013 did a road trip from Milwaukee, WI to Burbank, CA. While sight seeing in Long Beach my fuel pump quit on me at an intersection. I was trapped and had no way of doing it myself at the time The dealership was less than a mile away, that cost north of $200 just for towing. Then the real cornholing commenced, 7 days later the dealership charged me $840 for the fuel pump and installation. And then they had the attitude like they did me a favor. That experience boils my blood to this day.

Now if I could've done that myself, even a Genuine Audi/VW fuel pump is around $350 plus or minus and would have taken about an hour. Just ain't right.
 

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Finally replaced my cracked flex brake lines with some braided ss ones. I neglected flushing my brakes since buying the car and there was still some ate super blue so who knows how long its been considering it was also partially black. Also sick of finding someone to pump my brakes so grabbed some quickbleeders and also a vacuum pump kit to use for the slave. Flushed it all with some pentosin super dot4.

The reservoir was super dark, now a nice clear amber.







Next is my zf steering rack and HD tie rods thats been sitting in my shop staring at me. I bought a 3 bay commercial shop a few months ago but immediately after cleaning the floors and the oil/water seperator I had to bring an attic worth of shit into the shop while I had the roof redone at my house. hopefully i can get it cleared out in a month and be able to finally use my lift.
 

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Nice. You may want to check eBay for some nice used brake fluid reservoirs to freshen that one up. Mine started disintegrating after 17 years, and I replaced it with one from an ‘09 Audi. Next would be the coolant reservoir, to get rid of that “old nicotine” patina.
 

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Nice. You may want to check eBay for some nice used brake fluid reservoirs to freshen that one up. Mine started disintegrating after 17 years, and I replaced it with one from an ‘09 Audi. Next would be the coolant reservoir, to get rid of that “old nicotine” patina.
Haha yeah I ordered a new coolant reservoir a couple days ago but Im kicking myself for not doing it when i did my water pump and all the belts a couple months ago. Thanks for the tip I didnt even think about the brake reservoir.
 

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Got the bill for the alternator as my son picked up his car today. $715 total, $380 was labor. Not bad overall as the V6 alternator is really a pain. They did leave his headlight unplugged (or not plugged in properly). I hate to see how the belly pan is.
 
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