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Well, I did something very simple...

Old:
99580


Used this:

99581

(follow instructions carefully)

Got:

99582


Very impressed with results for the first time ever doing this kinda thing... taking sandpaper to headlights... yikes!
 

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Replaced my ignition coil pack on a V6 GLX 4mo (200883 odo miles)
Whoa... that's a $470 USD part (dealer price). Where did you get yours from? After market? Reconditioned? I'm thinking of doing the same...

99601
 

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I run 17x8 et 30 all around wrapped in 225/45's. I like really low but not tucking. This setup worked really well for what I wanted. For the B5.5's I think 18's can achieve that nicely.

Did you buy the smoked marker lights that fit in the bumper cover? That is one SWEET looking ride!!
 

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Not so much today but in the last week ive been taking advantage of the quarantine and installing a bunch of stuff Ive been piling up...



Most of it was replacing or rebuilding much of the front end.



Rebuilt the axles which was a pain but cheaper...





Then replaced the lower control arms with TRW units, and adjustable upper control arms from KSP. My rack had been leaking so after going through 2 liters of CHF11s ($$$$) I finally replaced the power steering rack with a rebuild from The Rack Doctor. Which by the way I ordered a ZF rack but the sent me a KOYO that they painted silver. I tried contacting them over 3 times and no response. Luckily the rack looks fine and Im only using it till I rebuild the OEM rack I took out. Threw some Meyle HD TRE's on there. Raceland has a lifetime warranty so they sent me out some new shock bodies in 2 days (good service). I changed out the upper mounts while i was in there. Wheel bearings were getting up there in age so I pressed in some new *** units.





I was gonna rebuild my k03 but when I took it apart there were alot of cracks on the exhaust housing so I went with a new MAHLE K03. Does anybody know how well these have performed, I mean I should be finding out soon myself haha.



Next few days will be finishing up a bunch of little things like rebuilding my calipers, new rotors and also building a bracket for my new intake setup.
MASSIVE suspension envy... my steering knuckles suck A** as you can probably see in my images in previous posts of mine... Where did you pick up your suspension parts? I saw your workbench from ECS tuning; did you get everything from them? or some from dealerships? I find that SOME parts are cheaper from the dealer and SOME are cheaper from 3rd party, but I really compare shipping costs and, for me, the exchange rate when considering that comparison.
 
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I got a ngk from rock auto. After the vcg, plugs, wires and all were changed I still kept on getting misfires on cyl 2. New ngk coil, no more misfires.

I think it was a little cheaper when I got it. Was around 80 to my door.

ok - see? That part is massively cheaper from Rock Auto - thanks!
 

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SULUDOS.. TRAIGO UN DETALLE CON MI PASSAT V6 2.8 AÑO 2001.. REQUIERO SABER COMO VAN COLOCAS TODAS LAS MANGUERAS DE VACÍO (CON TODAS LAS RAMIFICACIONES) OJALÁ Y ALGIEN TENGA UN DIAGRAMA ENTENDIBLE O FOTOS, O ALGO QUE ME AYUDE A HACER TODAS LAS CONEXIONES..
Welcome! - Go the various support channels here on this site for this kind of question. Many will answer!

(Pido disculpas por mi español, ya que solo es traductor de Google)

¡Bienvenidos! - Encuentre los diversos canales de soporte aquí en este sitio para este tipo de preguntas. ¡Muchos responderán!

Sugeriría el canal B5 para tu auto: B5 Garage

Puede obtener más respuestas si publica su pregunta en inglés. Solo usa el traductor de Google.
 

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I am painting my bumper. LA7W. Some of the paint got on my finger nail....Hmm kinda looks good... you know women might like this kinda thing. This might start a trend! If you add some polish it might look better though. Hey, I’ll call it nail polish! I bet I could sell that!
 
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Yesterday before I found out my new turbo had a dub wastegate and my day was ruined I finished my new intake setup. Built a little bracket so my intake doesn't flop around like an uncooked hot dog when I rage. Put a little edge trim on it to keep from tearing into nearby hoses.



Personally, I would have appreciated a video of the uncooked hotdog flapping of the intake, but you don’t always get what you want do you?
 
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True story, wife as my witness.
I had a simular problem last year on our way to work one day. Our trip to work is 13 miles one way. 10 of that is freeway. When I exited the freeway the car suddenly started running like absolute crap. Missing, low idle, no power.
At the end of the day we jump in the car and take surface streets, I thought the car would never make it home. Every stop light the idle would drop well below 500, had to feathering the gas pedal to keep it running. Finally get home, scanned it, a boat load of codes. Fuel trims, misfires, cam positions, MAF. I cleared the codes and left it for the next day for any work needed to be done.
Next day I go out to the car and start it up so I could see some measuring blocks in VCDS. It ran like nothing ever happened. To this day I have no idea what the deal was or why it would suddenly do that and then 'fix' itself. I just smirkishly folded up my laptop and went back inside. Told the wife "cars fixed". 😬

How can the car run so horribly one day and the next be just fine?
Pretty much purposely forgot about the event and I'm in a state of denial admitting (to myself) that it ever happened. I figure that way it'll never happen again.:unsure:
All I can hear in my own head is Gordon Ramsey saying "your in complete denial".

I know this is of absolutely no help to you, but I am really curious to know if you come up with a solution.
Classic computer problem? “Have you tried turning it off and on again?” (IT Crowd) In this case, resetting the codes did it, or if someone disconnects the battery for more than 8 hours, the engine management computer reboots and figures everything out from scratch?
 
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New engine and cabin air filter. Finishing paint layer on the front bumper and prepping for clear-coat. Ordered both front fog light assemblies on Amazon for $75 CAD total, which includes the $17 CAD shipping fee and 15% tax. Going to pick up both front marker lights, bulbs and fog light grills from the dealer (all WAY cheaper than any online aftermarket price). Busy busy busy
 

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Fixed wagon tailgate lock... I couldn’t open the rear door without racing from the driver’s side door after flicking the switch in the door. So the lock actuator motor worked. Something else didn’t. So I pulled apart the whole backend to find out. The main problem was that dirt wasn’t allowing the finger grip release latch to be in a ‘resting’ mode, or off position. The computer always things you’re holding the handle and never let it go. You can easily take it apart and it breaks down to a rubber sock cover, an open metal box, and a metal hinge panel with a pointy part that clicks a button on the box part:

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That’s actually an image of a video where you can hear it going clickity-click.

The second part of the issue is the clamp that holds it into place. The clamp was too tight and being too tight, it forced the rubber sock to also engage the switch once more making the computer think you’ve never let go of the handle:

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here, I scrapped off all the rust and gave it a coat of Tremclad rust paint and also some grease. Anyway, when installing, tighten the sides (T-25) only until the switch doesn’t work, then ease off a little until it does.

Finally, I paint matched the lock to the car colour:

99742


This picture was when I was trying to get the key slot to work again as it was completely gummed up with dirt. I used both brake cleaner and PB Blaster to get it functional again...


Now all locking and unlocking functions via finger release handle, key, and electronic fob all work again. The computer thanks you for finally letting go of the handle... it’s actually funny how other functions on the car now work - sounds I’ve never heard before.
 

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That would be then a double-jeopardy. To me just a 3.0 for a sedan is way more than enough.
My Acura RDX 2015 has a 3.5L engine with 270hP and I feel it's flying. Now, imagine you have a 3.0 in a much lighter weight sedan.
I think all I need to say is RS6.. I found one from 2004, and I think that's my next step :D
 
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Driven on the street, under 5K rpm, it would have 100hp/100tq. With a turbo big enough to flow 1000hp, even with the electric motor helping spin the turbo, it has no boost until over 5K.
Boost from electric motors starts at zero RPM - ie anything gained from KERS is on tap from a standing start, or any speed or engine RPM
 

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I placed two magnets on the transmission pan.

Made sure they don’t touch the little ones in the pan.

Will do a fluid change soon.

Let’s see if the magnets will do any good.
View attachment 99844
No fair. Another car with zero rust under it... Geeze cars must last forever in SC/AR/TX
 

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After replacing valve cover gasket with extreme patience and research (listening to many here) I saw more oil mess/leak to the tune of a half litre of oil after a short road test. So, put on my “I coulda avoided this by going to a shop” hat and started my investigation. One thing I’ve learned over the years is don’t assume anything and quickly told myself to shut it and changed the hat to “research and learn”. I actually watched the Humble Mechanic on YouTube to know how to investigate an oil leak as it was moderately informative. Remember, I do not know what I’m doing, so anything helps! HM could change his format slightly but he has lots to share. So I started to pull stuff apart and get busy. I started from the top and worked my way down. After putting my valve cover gasket job under a microscope I only saw the dry and clean corners I finished the job with, and that wacky trapezoidal gasket wedge was also surprisingly dry... what a dumb design. Anyway, a pat on the back and moved on down. The head gaskets also seemed as dry and clean as when I last finished cleaning there, and no pools under the inter-cooler. The rear main seal was also dry and no stains. But I start to see stains around the driver’s side and coming towards that front side, some drips. Then I see spray everywhere as I come forward... For 10 points, what am I looking at, if the coolant is completely bright pink? The oil pipes look drenched but in need of replacing, but behind the oil cooler, it’s a mess of new oil. I just changed the oil. So my very next project will be replacing the O-Ring ($3) on the oil cooler, the oil cooler itself ($160), the ‘fitting’ connector ($18) and those two lower hoses ($18 & $93 plus 4x smaller o-rings @ $2 each and that x plate for $4)...
 

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Why replace the cooler? I wouldn't if there is nothing wrong with it. If it leaks externally, it is almost always the o-ring seal for it. Intercooler? On a V6?
Oh, that’s not an inter cooler then I suppose? Just a fancy integrated intake manifold?

Oil cooler. I’ve heard of so many issues of oil cooler failures and how long it takes to flush out the oil from the coolant once it does fail. I simply do not have the time for that. I’ll be replacing other stuff down there so it’s worth the peace of mind that I won’t be spending 4x as much time getting back in there to replace it AND so much flushing. I’ve heard some guys say 3 days worth. I don’t have endless amounts of time to spend and the point of this is to have a car to drive, not a car that sits in the garage :) I really didn’t mean to make this reply sound angry; much respect! I just want my son to drive the car and have some confidence it will be reliable. So, the oil cooler has to go.
 
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