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Discussion Starter #1
I think myself and one other person out of all the members here in this forum live in AZ. Oops, ylwagon has a family member here in this state. So that makes it an unofficial 3. :p
So for the rest of you people, we had a major weather event here 2 days ago called, rain. Wednesday and Thursday we had spurts of ridiculous amounts of rain. Even had hail here Thursday afternoon in Phoenix. 馃槻
Never thought I'd see that white stuff on my car again, especially down here!
Anyways...
Back in WI, I had all of my water ingress issues fixed. Or so I thought.
Behind drivers seat, back seat foot well had about 2" of standing water in it Thursday afternoon.
I have a small sturdy cardboard box in the trunk with an emergency supply of coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid, jumper cables and a spare set of windshield wipers.
Yesterday I opened the trunk to toss in a package I received at work, to my horror that box was completely water soaked. So now I have to investigate that. I'm thinking with the heat from this last summer the rubber trunk seal has been compromised. Also going to take apart drivers side rear door and check out that window regulator seal.
Guess I've plans for the weekend now.
 

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Who was it that experienced a difficult to find leak and eventually traced it to the shrinkage of the trim seal on the rear door?
 

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how they ever built U-Boats is beyond me.......to my surprise my rear (back foot well) drivers side got soaked last summer also, I later discovered while installing rear speaker that the boot that goes between door and pillar was full of water as was the pillar electrical connection with water induced corrosion, there have been some posts within the last year as hu vw mentioned in regards to the trim seal on the rear door. I am ready to start drilling holes, seems like I would have less in there from water coming off the road than from above
 

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I would double check the sunroof drain tube connection at the roof side if you have not already sealed it. The heat warps the plastic tube and the rubber grommet hardens over time (and heat), so the water runs along the outside of the tube and drips.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Who was it that experienced a difficult to find leak and eventually traced it to the shrinkage of the trim seal on the rear door?
Are you insinuating that I was the one. :p

As matter of fact, I did replace both rear inner door seals a few months back. Picked up brand new ones from ECS Tuning for around $70 each. I don't think I ever posted about doing that though.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ARRRGH.
Went to move the car so I could work on it without getting harassed by the sloth maintenance crew here at the apartment, my check engine light came on! :mad:
Back all the way through the parking lot and into the apartment to get the laptop. Back out to the car.

After further investigation, it's apparent that water is coming through around the speaker and at the very bottom of the window regulator panel. I also discovered that my back drivers side window doesn't work. The plastic piece that the bottom of the window snaps into is broke off. The window just flops around when the window down button is activated. I can't remember the last time I used the back windows on my car, so I never noticed this problem.
Back a few months ago, I remember having conversation with LineInTheWater about water ingress issues. I've also recently bought all new outer window slot seals (the rubber squeegee strip that rubs on the outside of the window as it goes up and down). The one on the drivers rear door has rust on the metal skeleton part and has deformed the rubber so now it really doesn't contact the door or window allowing copious amounts of water through.
So today I ordered brand new window regulator panels for both back doors, figured if the one door is that bad, the other one is probably not far behind. Still the original window regulator panels from when the car was built. 21 years old.
In a couple of days I'll have the new regulator panels and then I'll install those along with the new outer window slot seals. Then I should be golden.

Still have to ultimately figure out how all that water is getting into the trunk. Although, I'm very suspect of the trunk seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
As I previously posted, still needed to check into the trunk seal.
That got bumped to the side because I wanted to scan the car to see what the deal was with the CEL.

This is just hell-o stupid but at least I can chuckle about it.
Not that long ago I dropped my old laptop that had VCDS on it. That laptop bought the farm. So I grabbed the wife's laptop and installed VCDS on that thing. Great, ready to rock.
Fire up the wife's laptop while I'm seating in the drivers seat, plug in the interface into the OBD port. VCDS fires up and has a screen that's about 2" square. So small I can barely make anything out.
Get into the window size setting area, it was set on 10. So I set it to 20. Click save and restart the program. Now the VCDS screen is so 'efing huge I can't get at any of the functions on it.
Now have a conundrum.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You could mess with screen resolution.
Yeah been there done that. Change the screen resolution to something different so you can get access to the other part of the active window.
But, unfortunately the window size on the VCDS program is so HUGE it's imposible to get at.

I un-installed VCDS, did a sweep of the Windows Registry and re-installed it. Now everything is normal again.
 

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Yeah been there done that. Change the screen resolution to something different so you can get access to the other part of the active window.
But, unfortunately the window size on the VCDS program is so HUGE it's imposible to get at.

I un-installed VCDS, did a sweep of the Windows Registry and re-installed it. Now everything is normal again.
Those damned gremlins !
 

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This Forum has the makings of a reality TV show........seriously....just have to laugh sometimes, the simple changing of a wiper blade can snowball into a weekend of repairs and posts "I need help,please"
 

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Discussion Starter #13
We are all anxiously waiting to the "what" and "why" the CEL came on ?
Patience Grasshopper.

This Forum has the makings of a reality TV show........seriously....just have to laugh sometimes, the simple changing of a wiper blade can snowball into a weekend of repairs and posts "I need help,please"
Right?
At first I was "what the... why me?" But then I just had to chuckle, such a simple deal just careened of the rails in epic proportions today.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here was what the VCDS looked like on the laptop.
As you can see there's not much I can do with that.

97815
 

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This Forum has the makings of a reality TV show........seriously....just have to laugh sometimes, the simple changing of a wiper blade can snowball into a weekend of repairs and posts "I need help,please"
I've seen a wiper replacement snowball into a windshield replacement a few times.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
And here is the scan from today.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 078-907-551-AHA.lbl
Part No: 4D0 907 551 AH
Component: 2.8L V6/5V MOTR HS D01
Coding: 06101
Shop #: WSC 02645
VCID: 6CD73EBF1C9AEA2F6B-4B00
2 Faults Found:
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System
P0411 - 35-10 - Incorrect Flow Detected - Intermittent
16825 - EVAP Emission Control Sys
P0441 - 35-10 - Incorrect Flow - Intermittent
Readiness: 0000 0000
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 15: Airbags Labels: 1J0-909-60x-VW3.lbl
Part No: 1J0 909 607 B
Component: AIRBAG VW3 S V03
Coding: 00066
Shop #: WSC 05311
VCID: 2C57FEBFDC1A2A2F2B-4AE8
2 Faults Found:
00588 - Airbag Igniter; Driver Side (N95)
32-10 - Resistance Too High - Intermittent
01217 - Side Airbag Igniter; Driver Side (N199)
32-00 - Resistance Too High
End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 05:12)--------------------------
 

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ARRRGH.

After further investigation, it's apparent that water is coming through around the speaker and at the very bottom of the window regulator panel. I also discovered that my back drivers side window doesn't work. The plastic piece that the bottom of the window snaps into is broke off. The window just flops around when the window down button is activated. I can't remember the last time I used the back windows on my car, so I never noticed this problem.
Back a few months ago, I remember having conversation with LineInTheWater about water ingress issues. I've also recently bought all new outer window slot seals (the rubber squeegee strip that rubs on the outside of the window as it goes up and down). The one on the drivers rear door has rust on the metal skeleton part and has deformed the rubber so now it really doesn't contact the door or window allowing copious amounts of water through.
So today I ordered brand new window regulator panels for both back doors, figured if the one door is that bad, the other one is probably not far behind. Still the original window regulator panels from when the car was built. 21 years old.
In a couple of days I'll have the new regulator panels and then I'll install those along with the new outer window slot seals. Then I should be golden.

Still have to ultimately figure out how all that water is getting into the trunk. Although, I'm very suspect of the trunk seal.
Ah, water ingress, my favorite topic!! Every Passat owner should be issued a bilge pump.

Remember when I was asking about new speaker water gaskets? Paranoia is justified! I caulked my Passat doors better than my bathtub.

If it's not coming in via your rear door, I'd strongly suspect the sunroof rear drain channels have a leak. As I'm sure you know, the drain tubes/nipples are behind the trunk upholstery sides. I'd get a hose and start precisely testing.
 

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And here is the scan from today.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 078-907-551-AHA.lbl
Part No: 4D0 907 551 AH
Component: 2.8L V6/5V MOTR HS D01
Coding: 06101
Shop #: WSC 02645
VCID: 6CD73EBF1C9AEA2F6B-4B00
2 Faults Found:
16795 - Secondary Air Injection System
P0411 - 35-10 - Incorrect Flow Detected - Intermittent
16825 - EVAP Emission Control Sys
P0441 - 35-10 - Incorrect Flow - Intermittent
How are those flex pipes? It may be better to just get the SAIP and rear O2 sensors coded out.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Flex pipes are brand new 2 months ago.
Took it to a custom exhaust guy, I was with him while car was on the lift. He used a sniffer and checked my whole exhaust system before and after. Obviously before hand with a torn left side flex joint the sniffer was screaming at us. The right side was just leaking a little bit hardly noticeable.
Afterwards, everything is sealed tight as a drum. ZERO exhaust leaks on the system.

Got to remember, this car is going on 22 years here shortly. I should probably get inside the drivers side rear wheel well and check that cartridge filter on the purge valve/pump. I'm guessing that thing is probably caked solid with road debris like sand, mud, leaves and roadkill.
Can't remember for certain, but I'm pretty sure the N80 valve is still original on this car too!
Easy enough to find out though. I can check my logs.
 

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Run an output test on the pump, check the electrical side of the combi vacuum port on top of the intake, vacuum test the combis and re-check the vac lines too. Check the plastic tube off the pump to the pipe at the front of the passenger side timing belt cover. A simple crack in that will cause intermittent codes.
 
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