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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone!

Bare with me, I figured one giant post is better than a billion little ones:

I own a 2002 W8 with 116000 on the dial. I got this car to replace me old 1995 Audi A6. The W8 does a lot of things as well, if not better than the old Audi :thumbup: , but there are a couple things that really annoy the living hell out of me that the Audi didn't have.

1. I notice that the illumination of these lights are not very good far away. :crazy:
-I did replace the low beam bulbs, they do better (even if they are cheap Chinese knock offs).
-The lights are slightly misaligned.
-I mean they are incredibly bright the first 20 feet and the next 30-40 is ok-ish but after that, it's like they hit a wall. Like a big black F#$%-your-sweet-xenon-lights wall.

Is this normal? is there any way around this? Can I adjust these with simple tools? If I pray to the almighty dear lord of all things that are kickass, can he help?




2. This may be obvious, but, the car almost feels a little floaty now than when I first got it. :thumbdown

It is like I have to keep making minor adjustments as I steer. I know, i know.... that is what driving through a corner is, but this is most noticeable when I drive on the highway over any bumps, around a turn, or if I go in a straight line (all on the highway). It feels like a strong crosswind is hitting the car and makes it slightly off when I hold the steering in the same spot. I don't remember this ever being an issue before. The suspension/steering was as tight at 80 mph as it was at 30 mph. Is this just the shocks that need to be replaced or is there anything else in the mix like one of those car level thingys that keeps everything level?


3. Is there any 6-cd changers left? Anything better? IS there a better way rather than be forced to mash repeatedly whatever iDevice I can find into the tape player in hopes of some music would play rather than the local noise, formally called Justin Bieber or Miley whats-that-twerk? :banghead:



4. Ok so I know what some of you might think... "Duh a Phaeton is better than a W8, and a 1.8T is even better than both with this economy..." :icon_eek:

But hold your blue tinted, metallic, leather wrapped gear shifter for a couple moments. :salute:

If I wanted a small 4 cyl turbo, I would by brand new with beer cooler in the armrest (I hate reaching for them in the W8's glove-box). I don't care much about normal (for that specific car model) repairs, gas prices, or maintenance costs. I rather have a W8 with a unique 4.0 over anything below that.

I'm looking to move up the proverbial corporate car brand ladder. I'm seeking real life owner experience, reliability, has anyone made the jump, is the maintenance cost much higher (than the w8 (real life examples, not "It is because random half pieces of misconstrued readings from the internet, 9 years ago told me so on aol.cars.whatever-their-URL-is.com")), what are some of the best features - like the hidden ones no one dares to speak, what are some of the worst, any pitfalls?

I heard it came with a free ice cream. Is that true? :D



So please help. I am asking here because I want read/hear what you have to say and ask questions. Research has gotten me interested, but I hope real conversations with make the difference.
Otherwise I'll say F$#% it and buy a Audi S6 5.2 V10 and :driving: into the sunset.
PS sorry for any mispellngs or, incorrected Grammer; :p
 

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from what i understand, phaeton and w8 are maintenance whores and have many issues. i personally would stay away unless i had alot of money in the bank
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well this is awkward.

I do own a W8 already and it has not been expensive or had much issues at all. I have owned it for years now without it being much difference from any other car I have owned that has made it passed 100,000 miles on it. It's just I'm about ready to move on to big and better things.

But thanks for the input :)
 

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^^Wow, big help, Bee5. :poke:

1. There should be some adjustment for direction, but you are right. The projector lamps have a VERY sharp cutoff. Even with the halogens of the "lower" models.
2. Have the steering and suspension checked. This includes the inner/outer tie rods and all bushings and control arms. Shocks, if original, should probably be looked at for replacement. That's probably where your floatyness is coming from. Constant steering adjustments while driving "steers" towards alignment
checks along with the suspension checks.
3. Just get a new in dash receiver. It will integrate just fine if installed correctly and you will reap the benefits of all of the up to date features of new technology.
4. I know nothing about the Phaeton other than they call it the poor man's A8 and it has a lot of off the wal neat little features. Look up Jeremy Clarkson's review of it way back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks VAGguy!

1. I figured as much about the lights. The lights have been a huge disappointment for me because I work and travel a lot over night.

2.The alignment is very very slightly off. I am leaning towards the shocks because they are original. If I do keep this car, I might go the route of S4 suspension and keep the stock rims. I wants something firm but comfy.

3.Will a new receiver remove the steering wheel controls? you don't get a pseudo lux family sedan without being a tad bit lazy :)

4. It's funny that you mention Jeremy Clarkson. His was one of the original reasons why I liked the car in the first place...about the only thing I can agree with him on. I hear good things from cars.com, kbb.com, ect, but I do have a lot of questions I would like to ask a real owner or someone who has owned both because then I would get a good reference point. I find it hard to imagine than no one upgraded from a passat to a phaeton or something similar. There is a great YouTube video about the features that put this car back on my radar. I do know there is exactly 1 phaeton owner where I live. But I only saw it once... Elusive bastard...


Thanks again for the reply.
If anyone else feels like replying, don't be shy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks TheColoradoRed!

I almost did but the only local 2008 S6 I saw, sold the day after I found it. :(

It even had the colors I liked the most on it. White w/ a tan interior
 

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You can still use steering wheel controls with the appropriate adapter provided the head unit is set up for it. Most of the midrange class of receivers have the capability.
 
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Re: the stock "mid-bass" speakers in each door. If these are the same as mine, they are secured to each door panel by rivets! (i.e. put there to stay)

If you plan on upgrading, plan to pull each window regulator panel to retreive the rivet heads after they are drilled out so they don't clog your door cavity drain holes...
 

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^^Wow, big help, Bee5. :poke:

1. There should be some adjustment for direction, but you are right. The projector lamps have a VERY sharp cutoff. Even with the halogens of the "lower" models.
2. Have the steering and suspension checked. This includes the inner/outer tie rods and all bushings and control arms. Shocks, if original, should probably be looked at for replacement. That's probably where your floatyness is coming from. Constant steering adjustments while driving "steers" towards alignment
checks along with the suspension checks.
3. Just get a new in dash receiver. It will integrate just fine if installed correctly and you will reap the benefits of all of the up to date features of new technology.
4. I know nothing about the Phaeton other than they call it the poor man's A8 and it has a lot of off the wal neat little features. Look up Jeremy Clarkson's review of it way back.
are they easy to work on? no
are they reliable? not really

for the cost of ownership of a w8 or phaeton you may as well get an actual A8L or S4.
theres a reason they didnt do too well and nobody really owns those. if you have one of the few solid ones thats cool. but dont rely on it to last.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Re: the stock "mid-bass" speakers in each door. If these are the same as mine, they are secured to each door panel by rivets! (i.e. put there to stay)

If you plan on upgrading, plan to pull each window regulator panel to retreive the rivet heads after they are drilled out so they don't clog your door cavity drain holes...
This sounds like a pain. Is this even worth the trouble?

I only ask because I do not mind the actual sound of the radio, just the lack of an aux or a droid plug
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for adding a little more info on this :)

I have spent close to $3000 on my W8 in the last 2 years. 4 new tires, new front axles, front arms, a bad ABS module, and some other cheap parts. That also includes labor as well. While I'm not excited about that, I do realize that is part of the cost of having a used car and don't expect to have to fix those for a while now.

But I totally understand your point. And it would be nice to not worry about looking for parts :p
 

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Projectors have a very sharp cut off. I'd say projecting 40-50 ft in front of the car is pretty nice though. I mean... that's what? 5 car lengths? What temperature bulb are you using? Changing the bulb temperature can change your overall visibility. 4500-5000k is close to direct sunlight (white-yellowish light.) The bluer the light the less visibility, and 6000k is right where it starts transitioning to blue.

You should be careful about adjusting the light up on HID lighting though. Better left to someone who knows what they're doing, but you can attempt to fiddle with the adjustment anyway. Only reason why I say that is because HIDs are MUCH MUCH more intense than halogen lighting on other driver's eyes. Even the OEM HID lighting can be killer. Doesn't the OE lighting Auto adjust anyway? Or at least have a rheostat to adjust the height? I know European B5's came with that, a little motor to adjust the light height.
 

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The B5 is a car that is quite DIY-able (although not so much the W8.) The Phaeton? I have no idea, but I do know that even if there is a "PhaetonWorld.com", it's not going to have nearly as much information on it as PassatWorld. It's a large, complex, luxurious car that's going to have a lot of things that can go wrong. If something goes wrong under the hood, it'll be no easier to service than your W8. And you'll have a tough time finding an experienced mechanic to work on it, even at the dealership, as the car was more-or-less a flop in the US. (And, on that note, why, oh why, is VW trying to bring it back here? A car line that includes a de-contented US-special Passat is a bit incongrouous with a Bentley Flying Spur on which has been affixed new bodywork and a VW logo.)

There's an excellent reason low-mile examples of the car, even with the W12, go for under 20k. (Cars.com even lists a W12 that's about the same age and mileage as my B5.5 for only a couple grand more than my car would list at. When an ultra-luxo-barge can list for around the same price as a Camry of the same age, that should tell you a lot.)
 

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I know European B5's came with that, a little motor to adjust the light height.
The rheostat is only for halogen headlights. EU regulations stipulate factory equipped HID vehicles will come with auto adjusting headlights, hence the sensors (front and rear) and other additional hardware on HID equipped VWs over here. If you check the ETKA files here, which I'm sure you're aware of, on page 45 (illustr. 941-25) you'll find the part numbers of the corresponding electronic controls. All this mainly comes from the tendency of vehicles being heavily loaded or pulling trailers causing the rear to lower.
 

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^^ to BEE5
understandable. just was pointing out that if you plan to keep a car for a long time, its good to research the crap out of it so you know if its going to be a headache/money pit, or something you wont be :banghead: about in the future.
my audi was super reliable for about 2 years, then it was one thing after another, and i ended up spending around $6,000 on it to keep it on the road. which is more than 50% of the cars value. and i always treat my cars right and dont abuse them, always warm them up prior to driving, even if the car has only sat for an hour or two, i let it run for a few min before going anywhere, and on cold starts i dont drive hard, i wait til the oil is up to operating temp. its just the way these cars are designed. audi/vw and bmw/mini have proven to be some of the most unreliable german cars.
 
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