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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The usual disclaimers apply: must have some mechanical ability, common sense, basic tools, etc. Also - should not be performed in front of children, your Preacher, or anyone else offended by colorful language!
BEST PERFORMED ON COLD ENGINE.

Items needed: new Airfilter for W8, clean rag, plastic bags, rubber band, shop vac, trouble or work light.

Tools needed: T20 torx socket/ extension/ratchet (1/4" drive), 10mm socket or wrench, slip joint pliars, 10" long 3/8" drive extension or extra long flat tip screw driver, Phillips head screwdriver.

Reference: Bentley Manual, section K 24-5 (Air cleaner, assembly).

STEP 1: Loosen the 3 phillips head screws that hold the Air Duct to lock carrier. Remove Air duct section from Air Cleaner upper part, as well as center air duct section going to section on lock carrier (leave carrier section attached).

STEP 2: Remove 2 - T20 screws from Air Cleaner upper part bracket (be careful not to drop them!) This allows you to move the harness connected to the upper box out of the way.

STEP 3: Use slip joint pliars to loosen round retaining clip that holds the MAF sensor housing to the intake manifold (tube to rear of engine) slide it up onto the intake manifold tube (do NOT remove). OPTIONAL - remove electrical
connector to MAF sensor to loosen harness even more (I didn't).

STEP 4: Loosen 4 spring metal clips that hold lower and upper aircleaner sections together - be careful, as they can drop into lower engine compartment. I also loosened the 10mm bolt holding the lower section to the fender - it allows you to wiggle things a bit (especially if you drop a clip and/ or tool). Remove upper Air cleaner assembly - be careful not to force anything - you could pull wires, etc. loose, or break MAF connector. Use plastic bag & rubber band to cover opening to Intake manifold tube to keep clean. Use second bag to cover Air Cleaner upper section to keep it clean.

STEP 5. Remove old filter, and remove slush screen (1 phillips screw) and clean it with hot water - dry out (I used hair dryer). Use rags and shop vac to clean out lower Air cleaner box, and 3 air duct sections.

STEP 6: Replace slush screen, put in new filter, and put everything back together in reverse order (removing plastic bags, of course).

Hints:
a) the rear clip is almost impossible to reach - I used the "fat" end of the 10" extension to pop it back on - a long screw driver should work too.
b) leave the 3 phillips screw loose on the lock carrier, as well as the 2 T20's until the 3 parts of duct are back together properly, then tighten them.
c) take your time, don't force anything, and be careful not to lose parts and/or tools.
 

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Good info, thanks for the tip on replacing the back clip. I was about to ask fellow w-8 owners what they used to replace the rear cli[ps.
 

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I've been driving around for three weeks without the rear clip fastened! I can't get on it. The airbox is sealed pretty tight without it, but it's still bugging me. I'm going to give it another shot with a long screwdriver tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Be patient, my fellow W8ers - you have to go more by feel than sight on the rear clip.
Once you get something on it, you can't see it very well anymore.
FYI - I will be tackling the sparkplugs later this week, or weekend.
I will do write up on that as well.
Unless I go to the Minnesota GTG on the 14th, which could delay the write-up a few days.
It looks like Rockauto.com is a good place for sparkplugs by the way.
Stock NGK BKR6EKUE's are $5.56 each (10 pack) with a 2 day delay.
NGK Iridium BKR6EIX11's (# 3764) are $6.58 each (4 pack) - my choice
Denso Iridium's (#5304) are $11.96 each, and
Bosch FR7HP222's are $11.44 each witha 7 day delay.
 

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I'll be changing my spark plugs this weekend also. I'm waiting for my Bentley manual to arrive. It's supposed to get here Thursday. I also ordered the NGK Iridiums from rockauto.com. I got them in 2 days. I actually ordered all my 40k service parts from rockauto except the oil. Saved a ton of money - mostly because of the bargain plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Are you doing the fuel filter?
I got my airfilter from the dealer, as I was in there picking up belly pan and hardware...next time I'll order that along with the plugs.
The plugs are definitely a $ saver.
ECS-Tuning wanted 125.00 for 8 stock NGKs!!!
 

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I bought a fuel filter, but I'm not sure when I'll get around to changing it. Plugs are priority #1 right now. I'll probably replace the fuel filter sometime in the next month or two.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I would think so - I ended up replacing mine with an ITG WB-447 which they list as being the same as for the 1.8T (I think K&N lists the same p/n for the 1.8T , W8 and maybe the V6 as well)
 

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Tom Parish, any chance of having a link to this write-up established in the W8Registry FAQ section you are running?
Absolutely. I'll get on it tonight.

BTW, that rear clip is a true test of patience. I'm about 2K miles (40K maintenance) of having to do the DIY myself along with spark plugs.
 

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I would think so - I ended up replacing mine with an ITG WB-447 which they list as being the same as for the 1.8T (I think K&N lists the same p/n for the 1.8T , W8 and maybe the V6 as well)
I can't remember the vendor but I got a charcoal one (Bosch?) that was about 1/2 the price VW charges.
 

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Is the air filter for W8 is the same as the regular (1.8t and V6) B5.5?
I just changed my Air Filter on the W8 and the 1.8T and it is the same filter.
The Filter that I put in is the K&N, part#33-2125.
Bought it at autoanything.com for $40.50 and free shipping.

The W8 Filter change was a heck of a lot easier than the change on the 1.8T

Best regards,

FS
 
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