I do not have a VR5 and haven't even seen one.
That small hose with a screw blocking it, should be connected somewhere. Check where the other end connects, that might give a clue.
To do the test suggested by PZ, you need to block all flow into the intake from that valve that you are pointing to in your 2nd pic.
I suggest you disconnect the hose from the LHS of that valve, and block the hose that connects to the intake.
When stationary, when I accelerate up to 5000 rpm. I hear explosions in the exhaust. I think the air / fuel mixture is not good.
Still nothing when reading the calculator. For it "everything" is fine. Guess I can rule out malfunctioning elements from the previous image?
Diag Data :
RPM : 5221 / Load : 18,0 / Temp 90 / Air Temp 57 / air mass : 31.72g/s // Absolute Position of throttle : 23,5%
When I autocheck with my software these data, I have a message telling me that the absolute position of the throttle body was 0.8% inconsistent, could this have all of these consequences?
I forgot to specify that the car did not pass the anti-pollution tests that we have in France.
The car has an EGR.
EDIT : I may have found a clue with the crankshaft sensor - Apparently it can cause this type of error
Not at all, after the "failure" at 4500/5000 rpms the car no longer exceeds 2800 rpms, but if I drive below that limit, no problem driving "for a long time".
But I no longer have any power.
I found a used throttle body, I would try the change when I receive it. Yesterday I reconnected my solenoid valves, maybe a bad connection, I changed a hose which also seemed dead.
I will try during my lunch break.
EDIT : test fail - Next Step I ll change my Throttle body.
I would say it's the MAF only if the throttle always shows open (90% or so) when the problem occurs. Since it showed closed on that one test column, it throws off the possible MAF issue as an inconclusive test. Hopefully, you can figure it out as I don't know if it's the MAF or an ECU command for some odd reason.
Do you think changing the MAF is useless? I can still cancel my order: p
When I unplug the MAF I still have the same symptoms and I have an error at the ECU...
Looks like the ECU is triggering a safe mode. But should I have error codes?
I still have solutions with the crankshaft and engine speed sensors...
But it's really strange that she manages to run it cold, but not once the normal temperature of the engine has been reached.
Could the heat from the engine cause another sensor to malfunction?
I would at least try it, they are not real expensive. It's just very odd that the engine rpm will not climb, the air mass is low and the throttle opening is also low. Have you tried looking in the throttle with the engine off, but key on after the engine is hot and see if it opens properly?
The ECU can cut throttle for wheelspin, overheating, and maybe knocking.
The 1st O2 sensor checks the SAIP and the 2nd checks the CAT. When the SAIP runs, it pumps extra air into the exhaust and the ECU pumps extra fuel into the engine. This heats up the primary cat faster.
Is it possible you have the wiring for the 2 sensors swapped? That would screw up the air/fuel mixture. They are usally color coded from the factory, but replacements may not match.