Vibrates worse after new engine mounts?

have you changed an axle recently?
that will give vibration also.

Haven't replaced an axle lately. About 6 months ago, I changed the CV boot on the drivers side axle. I disassembled the axle to replace just the boot, so the axle is the factory Audi axle.

Tonight I cleaned the throttle body. It helped some. There is little to no vibration in Park. In D or R there is some slight vibration. More than I would like.

Did you tighten the inner axle bolts to the proper sequence and specification? You may want to inspect the bolts and make sure they're not coming loose. You should use at least blue loctite on them when reinstalling.

In the meantime, as for the snub mount, mine looked completely intact, but it still had a lot of movement on it compared to the urethane one I installed. I would frequently miss shifts on my manual because of the bucking of the engine.

I'll check the axle mounts bolts, but the vibration is only at idle or when the car is stopped. At highway speed, it's smooth as can be.

I'm guessing it's the snub mount. I will try replacing it next.

I have always though this car was great, but now it's starting to nickel and dime me. It was the timing belt a few months ago, engine mounts last month, valve cover gasket a few weeks ago, the passengers door dome light swtich works intermittently and now looks like a new snub mount. Just frustrating for such a nice car to start needing so much work....

Check to see if you don't have a bleeding motor mount. It's quite common for the Meyles (and other made-in-china brands) to prematurely fail.

Recently, I've had a Febi/Bilstein fail on me after a week of use, and yes, I have a vibration. (bleeding brown fluid). Will be changing it next week.

Weird! I just experienced the SAME THING! I bought the specified engine mounts (all 3) from GermanAutoParts.com and had my mechanic install them. He was swapping out tie rod ends anyway, so I just had him do the mounts.

It now seems to vibrate more than before. Quite noticeable just idling in park.

This is quite disappointing, seeing as how I expected the exact opposite to happen. I was looking forward to a very smooth, vibe-free car.

Also, when going over sharp-edged bumps, the steering wheel will lightly "jolt" to one side or the other...and it didn't do that before the new tie-rod ends and mounts.

Chris611 said:

I have always though this car was great, but now it's starting to nickel and dime me. It was the timing belt a few months ago, engine mounts last month, valve cover gasket a few weeks ago, the passengers door dome light swtich works intermittently and now looks like a new snub mount. Just frustrating for such a nice car to start needing so much work....

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You have an 8 year old car, I think those are all repairs that are very justifiable given the age of your car. If you feel you are being nickled and dimed, might be time to buy a new car with a warranty.

Q Brizzle said:

Also, when going over sharp-edged bumps, the steering wheel will lightly "jolt" to one side or the other...and it didn't do that before the new tie-rod ends and mounts.

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The TRE mounts have to be inserted a specific distance into the hub carriers in order to not cause bump-steer. In theory, the TREs aren't made to fit perfectly without careful adjustment so that the height of the TREs can be adjusted as necessary to cancel out bump-steer that develops over time, but I think they just do it to make them harder to service.

aran said:

You have an 8 year old car, I think those are all repairs that are very justifiable given the age of your car. If you feel you are being nickled and dimed, might be time to buy a new car with a warranty.

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1. It's spelled "nickel".

2. A Japanese car wouldn't have half of these problems at 8 years old, and they would all be easier to fix, too.