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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently had a 17927 code pop up, and noticed the passenger side (which rattles for 1-2 seconds in cold starts) got louder at operating temp and idle. The ticking changes from normal to noticibly louder as it idles, at different intervals.

Just popped the VC off and things look normal, chains tight, and in debating what to do next. I can't afford a 1k replacement for both sides at the moment, so I'm gonna have to use what's available from trusted places like FCP and German Auto Parts (bapmic).

I have a video of the noise I'll upload and post once I'm home. I cleaned the n205 solenoid and wiring connector first time code popped up, and I noticed it's covered in oil again. Perhaps that seal is leaking and making it loose oil pressure? CCT, halfmoon, cam seals and caps and vc were changed 8k ago, the cold start rattle existed before but not the louder ticking at idle and engine warm.
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103489
 

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This has got nothing to do with your problem, but what is with all of that grit on the cams?
Did you open this thing up with the wind blowing around outside?

You'd better flush that junk down with some kerosene, drain the oil, put 5 quarts of CHEAP oil in, run it for a few minutes, stop the engine, drain the oil, and put good new fresh oil in with a good oil filter.

That will eat your crank and connecting rod bearings in short order.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I plan on giving it a good cleaning once I remove the intake cam and tensioner tomorrow, I always do a small flush with some cheap oil after doing the gaskets. Unfortunately I don't have a better place to work on it at the moment, and it's been difficult to work as cleanly as possible.

My w8 is getting towed to trans shop for diagnosis this week FINALLY and my daily starts to make all this noise this past weekend so I'm SOL at the moment. Trying to get this sorted asap.

New tensioner will prob be here by weeks end so I have plenty of time to clean everything up. Not optimal by any means 😭
 

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I didn't want that last message to sound like I was coming down on you.
Yeah I know what it's like to work under less than satisfactory conditions. It really is a bummer.

I've got (2) Passat's I'm trying to get ready to put up on the auction block, one thing after another gets in my way.

You've got a W8? Do tell...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No offense taken, it's sound advice regardless of how it came off, definitely need to clean it all out very well. I recently moved and the new property unfortunately isn't close to any my friends with a garage, and both bays here are taken up by a '54 Bel Air and a dumb amount of tools leftover from my father and grandfather that still need to be sorted. As well as dirt driveways 😭

I grabbed an 03 w8 Blue Spirit Pearl wagon for 850, 160k decent maintenance history. Has a weird flare from 2-3 under heavy acceleration, and a bit of a shudder. Sourced a used GAK for a steal worst case scenario, sending that Torque Converter to Eriksson Industries for a rebuild. But hopefully it's just a valve body/solenoid causing that shift issue, but if it needs a swap I have the spare just in case.

Hopefully once sorted, I can have a little fun with her!
103491
 

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Blue Spirit is probably my favorite W8 color.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I didn't realize how much I liked BSP until seeing it in person, up close. I couldn't say no, especially for $850.
 

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I didn't realize how much I liked BSP until seeing it in person, up close. I couldn't say no, especially for $850.
Even if you didn't like it, for $850? Pfft, parts alone are worth more than that.
 

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Sorry man, I completely derailed this topic. :whistle:
 

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If you can get a socket and a ratchet on the front crank bolt and give it a turn, the CCT should move up and down at least a little bit.
That top cam chain shoe looks pretty nice, is the bottom one still present?
How's the tension on the cam chain?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Chain tension is tight, from what I can see without an endoscope, the bottom pad looks intact as well. I found a what looks to be a genuine refurbished tensioner I'm waiting for in the mail. Might take the intake cam and tensioner out today to further inspect, I'll give it 2 rotations and see if it looks to be operating.


I was wondering if aside from the small screen on underside of CCT, is there any other reason it could be starved of oil? Perhaps gasket blocking pathways, I was also thinking back to changing my valley pan gasket earlier this year cause all the black paint was peeling and leaving chips in the valley.

I saw the 059103175f oil relief valves in the Valley and wondered if these could cause issues up top, particularly on cold starts when they're known to rattle or at any point during operation.

I'll post up new photos of tensioner once I pull it. The "OEM" refurb will be here Tuesday, and also waiting on a Bapmic brand just to make a comparison, I ordered the bapmic for 130 before I found the renewed OEM one on eBay for 80.
 

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There could be gasket material plugging the pickup tube on the oil pump (or JB Weld in my case). Apart from that, almost anything that makes it past the screen is ground up by the pump.
 

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if and when you get the CCT out, carefully unscrew install tool and pull out /off top shoe piston assembly ,inside should be spring and plastic pin. the spring should not be worn on the sides as metallic "dust" from wear may cause it to stick, and plastic pin should be straight,not bent from over tightening install tool. Actual piston should/tube should not be scratched as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I just want to verify a few things before I pull everything apart. I've seen conflicting posts about TDC while doing this job. I plan to only remove the intake cam and tensioner, and I've seen posts saying set TDC first, set TDC then go CCW 45 degrees, some have said it doesn't matter just make new marks on chain, sprocket and top face of cam to assure it goes back in at the same orientation.

Which one is it lol? I replaced the gaskets thousands of miles ago and didn't set TDC, but I only loosened the caps and rethreaded a bit, never fully removed the cam.

Is there anything else that commonly makes noise I should look out for aside from the tensioner? I was reading about the oil check valves or pressure release valves in the valley pan (which I replaced the gasket too cause it was peeling black paint everywhere when I replaced PCV and cleaned out the cover.
 

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I personally don't know about ant issues with the check valves, but that doesn't mean that there arent.
I would highly recommend lining up all of the timing marks (crank pulley and cams).
That way if anything goes wrong, you've got everything set to the reference they need to be re-installed at.
Eliminates any and all guess work and any worry about having to rotate the engine if something goes wrong.

For removal, just line up all timing marks and pull the intake cam and tensioner.

Here's a tip, make a reference mark on the side of the cam chain links and camshaft (both the intake and exhaust cams) so on reassembly your 16 roller count will be dead on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yes I planned to mark everything well, including the cam caps I remove with ° °° °°° °°°° °°°°° I be safe during reinstalling. I just feel like one or two of the posts of the 1000 I read this last week said with everything at TDC, there could be issues. And this
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was posted alongside that info
 

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(clarification)

On the V6 when the timing marks are lined up, the engine IS NOT at TDC (on #1 cylinder anyways)
Think of it this way, when all of the timing marks are lined everything works in harmony, correct? That would be a yes.
So, if you dis-assemble and re-assemble with all timing marks lined up, it's all relative.

FYI,
Most engines when referring to TDC it's #1 cylinder.
TDC is a loosely interpreted term when speaking about the 30 valve V6.
On a V6, when all the timing marks are lined up, the #3 cylinder is at TDC not #1.
If you look at the cam lobes with all timing marks lined up, none of the cam lobes are pushing down on the valves on #3 cylinder.

Trust me, nothing will happen if you line up all timing marks before taking anything apart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Awesome, thanks for clarifying! I get so lost after reading and reading through posts, just want to be as precise as possible to avoid any issues.
 
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