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Discussion Starter #1
Performed a VCDS-Lite scan of a 1998 B5 passat due to remote, interior lights, and windows switches not working and suspecting a bad CCM.
Only can connect to engine(01) and ABS(03) module.

I would suspect at a minimum should also see instruments, airbags, central convenience, and radio.

Any insights?

Thanks in advance.

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Tuesday, 02 June 2020, 16:32:41.


Chassis Type: 3B - VW Passat B5
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,16,17,19,35,36,37,46,47,55,56,57,58,75,76,77

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: None
Controller: 8D0 907 557 P
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT MOTR HS D02
Coding: 06201
Shop #: WSC 06335
VCID: 3D0DBAF72469
No fault code found.
Readiness: 0110 0101

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Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8E0-614-111-ABS.LBL
Controller: 8E0 614 111 P
Component: ABS/EDS 5.3 FRONT D31
Coding: 0273004133
Shop #: BB 24304
VCID: 2B2984AFCA1D
2 Faults Found:
00285 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Front Right (G45)
30-00 - Open or Short to Plus
00287 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
30-10 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
 

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Do you have an aftermarket radio installed?
According to the Bentley...
An aftermarket radio should be disconnected if any scanning is to take place. Apparently an aftermarket radio causes issues with the CAN-Bus.

I was rather surprised to read that, seeing as many people have aftermarket radios installed, never of any issues related to that, other than functionality of the radio itself and the loss of steering wheel controls.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There is an aftermarket radio but it was disconnected. Also, I thought the early b5 did not have can-bus
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It also turns out that I can connect to the instrument and airbag modules individually but autoscan does not pick them up
 

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I've never used the Lite version of VCDS but maybe auto-scan is one of the features it lacks that the full version has. Also, I think there is a setup file that can enable/disable certain modules so an auto-scan doesn't waste time trying to scan them if they aren't present in your car, but I doubt that's the problem here.
 

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You can play with the blk_int number in the settings (55 is the standard, it goes from 25 to 750). I have had issues communicating with some things on my b6 a4 with it at 55.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
Only the registered version will do a full scan.
Try a scan of the CCM. 46 IIRC.
Thanks, didn't realize that. Is registering different than buying the license for $99?

Update: CCM issues were due to break in wiring harness. Fixed that and can now connect to CCM.
Windows and key fob now works. Only passenger side under door illumination lights work. not a bulb issue.

Current issue: the central locking seems to be screwy. takes two unlock/lock cycles for you to be able to open the door from outside or inside. Does this with two different lock mechanisms that I have on hand. Also, if you pull the outside handle while locked, the door will not open at all no matter the number of unlock/lock cycles.
 

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Thanks, didn't realize that. Is registering different than buying the license for $99? (The same)

Update: CCM issues were due to break in wiring harness. Fixed that and can now connect to CCM. (Good)

Windows and key fob now works. Only passenger side under door illumination lights work. not a bulb issue.
(If the light doesn't operate and it doesn't show door open on the dash, check the micro switch in the door lock mechanism and the red and blue wires from it to the PCB in the lock module. The fault is often cracked solder joints where the red and blue wires connect to the PCB)

Current issue: the central locking seems to be screwy. takes two unlock/lock cycles for you to be able to open the door from outside or inside. Does this with two different lock mechanisms that I have on hand.
(I haven't come across this, but it could be a setting in the CCM.)

Also, if you pull the outside handle while locked, the door will not open at all no matter the number of unlock/lock cycles.
(I am not sure of what you mean)
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thanks, didn't realize that. Is registering different than buying the license for $99? (The same)

Update: CCM issues were due to break in wiring harness. Fixed that and can now connect to CCM. (Good)

Windows and key fob now works. Only passenger side under door illumination lights work. not a bulb issue.
(If the light doesn't operate and it doesn't show door open on the dash, check the micro switch in the door lock mechanism and the red and blue wires from it to the PCB in the lock module. The fault is often cracked solder joints where the red and blue wires connect to the PCB)

Current issue: the central locking seems to be screwy. takes two unlock/lock cycles for you to be able to open the door from outside or inside. Does this with two different lock mechanisms that I have on hand.
(I haven't come across this, but it could be a setting in the CCM.)

Also, if you pull the outside handle while locked, the door will not open at all no matter the number of unlock/lock cycles.
(I am not sure of what you mean)
Have a spare CCM on the way so will plug it in to see if it functions differently.

What I meant was that if the drivers outside door handle is pulled when the door is locked, the door is not able to be opened at all(from the inside or outside) even when unlocked. Eventually it will open after dozens of attempts, seemingly randomly. I have not found a sequence or operation that will allow it to open consistently.
 

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What I meant was that if the drivers outside door handle is pulled when the door is locked, the door is not able to be opened at all(from the inside or outside) even when unlocked. Eventually it will open after dozens of attempts, seemingly randomly. I have not found a sequence or operation that will allow it to open consistently.
Likely there is some corrosion inside the door. I had some issues like this in my Nissan on my passenger's side.

There should be an access port on each door near the handle. you can pull the plug and shoot some teflon/silicon/pb blaster/etc in there. see if that helps.
 

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Have a spare CCM on the way so will plug it in to see if it functions differently.

What I meant was that if the drivers outside door handle is pulled when the door is locked, the door is not able to be opened at all(from the inside or outside) even when unlocked. Eventually it will open after dozens of attempts, seemingly randomly. I have not found a sequence or operation that will allow it to open consistently.
I wouldn't be replacing the CCM at this point, if you do, make sure it has exactly the same number.

That door problem description is more confusing than the original.
Using the inside handle, if unlocked the door should open with one pull or two pulls if locked. (Unless deadlocked) I don't think they used deadlocks in USA.
Using the outside handle, it will never open while locked, and one pull if unlocked.

If it won;t open with the outside handle when unlocked. Adjust the cable from outside handle to lock mechanism, (Move it one tooth tighter)
 

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What I meant was that if the drivers outside door handle is pulled when the door is locked, the door is not able to be opened at all(from the inside or outside) even when unlocked. Eventually it will open after dozens of attempts, seemingly randomly. I have not found a sequence or operation that will allow it to open consistently.
Try pushing the door in slightly while pulling the outside handle. I've had that issue with my oldest son's car, he likes to slam the doors. Adjusting the striker slightly looser has helped, but it returns. He's just heavy handed and does not realize how hard he closes the doors.
 
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