[royler74]

Hey there, I still cant get my 2001 Passat AWM motor cranked up......It turns over, but doesnt start. I have good spark, fuel and air.

I got a cable and the VCDS lite program and it is hooked up, but I'm not sure what I need to be looking at. The only code that is showing up is

VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.0
Thursday, 02 July 2015, 13:03:23:0


Chassis Type: 3B - VW Passat B5
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,16,17,19,35,36,37,46,47,55,56,57,58,75,76,77

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: 06B-906-018-AWM.LBL
Controller: 4B0 906 018 CM
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0010
Coding: 0016551
Shop #: WSC 07134
2 Faults Found:
16497 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42): Signal too High
P0113 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
16622 - Shareware Version. To Decode all DTCs
P0238 - 001 - Please Register/Activate - Intermittent
Readiness: 0110 1101

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01V-927-156.LBL
Controller: 3B0 927 156 AH
Component: AG5 01V 1.8l5VT USA 0810
Coding: 0001104
Shop #: WSC 07134
No fault code found.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 8E0-614-111-ASR.LBL
Controller: 3B0 614 111
Component: ABS/ASR 5.3 FRONT D00
Coding: 00021
Shop #: WSC 00028
No fault code found.

So basically, in a no start condition, what would I look under for any issues?

Thanks for the insight!!

 

[Tomvw]

Check cam timing, and check compression and post the results.

 

[royler74]

Hey Tom, Thanks for the reply. The other day I had to change to CCT, as it had a crack in it and it was squirting oil on the fire wall. Any ways, got it all back together with timing marks lined up. See pick below.

Ok, so I did a "wet" compression check and the pressure shot up pretty high....Im talking about 250+ psi on the 2 cyllinders I tested. I got scared and stopped, I didnt want it to blow a gasket or something else. Could the high pressure be caused by the lifters being not pumped up correctly? Several months ago I checked it and all 4 were reading about 120-130....

 

[royler74]

Ok, I had to bleed off the lifters and here are my "wet"compression check readings

1: 175
2: 165
3: 165
4: 165

So, they all seem to be within the acceptable range and the timing appears to be on the spot.....

So I still have spark, air and I visually checked and saw the injectors squirting gas, still a no start. I guess I need to check the fuel pressure somehow?

 

[Tomvw]

I can't see from your pic if the timing is correct, but if the crank was at TDC it would be close enough to run.
The compressions are good.

The lifters can't cause excessive compression, the only thing that could cause that would be something (oil, coolant, fuel)
in the combustion chamber that should not be there.


I understand it was running before you replaced the CCT.
Check the work you have done, starting at the 2 sensors that are logging codes, and their connectors.

16622/P0238/000568 - Manifold Pressure/Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too High
16622/P0238/000568 - Ross-Tech Wiki

16497/P0113/000275 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42): Signal too High
16497/P0113/000275 - Ross-Tech Wiki
Use this link to check the meaning of codes.


If you still have a problem, do the following tests.
With everything connected including fuses.
And the ignition key in the run position:
What is the voltage between ground and each side of fuse #7 ?
What is the voltage between ground and each side of fuse #29 ?

With everything connected including fuses.
And the engine cranking:
What is the voltage between ground and each side of fuse #28 ?
What is the voltage between ground and each side of fuse #29 ?
What is the voltage between ground and each side of fuse #34 ?

 

[royler74]

Tom, unfortunately Iv'e had this issue for a while now. The only reason I changed the CCT was because it was cracked. Here are the results from the voltage checks


What is the voltage between ground and each side of fuse #7 ? 12.9
What is the voltage between ground and each side of fuse #29 ? 12.9

With everything connected including fuses.
And the engine cranking:
What is the voltage between ground and each side of fuse #28 ? 11.5
What is the voltage between ground and each side of fuse #29 ? 11.5
What is the voltage between ground and each side of fuse #34 ? 11.5

I'm going to check those sensors real quick.

 

[royler74]

I cleared the codes and they have not returned today. VCDS is reading 27*C in the intake, which it is around 80*F right now

 

[Tomvw]

Those voltages are normal.
What plugs are in it ?

 

[royler74]

If it's the plugs I'm going to scream!! Lol

I'll check when I get home. Thanks!!

 

[royler74]

The plugs are ac Delco 41-801 double platinums gapped at .32

 

[Tomvw]

I don't know anything about the Delco 41-801 double platinums, but the 1.8 engines are very fussy about plugs.
I suggest you try plugs that are known to work in that engine, the original NGK BKUR6ET or maybe the NGK BKR6E copper. (the coppers only last about 5 - 10k)

My Haynes manual says BKUR6ET. It appears that VW used a couple of different plugs in the 1.8 over the years.
I suggest you use one of them, and ignore what Advanced Auto Parts or anyone else, states are, or are not compatible.

PFR6Q or copper BKR6E. .032 gap. If chipped, go for .028 gap. that's it, end of story. Close the thread.......no, really.

Just found this-
According to the Chilton's manual, "routine maint and tune up: 1-39", NGK BKUR6ET is the oem plug.

 

[royler74]

Its worth a shot. I'll pick some up this afternoon and let you know what happens.

With everything that has been done to this car there is one thing I never asked about, but will it start is the "service" position?

 

[PZ]

Yes, as long as all of the intake hoses are still connected. Did you double check them? Sometimes the hoses at the crossover can pull off in service position.

 

[royler74]

Thanks for the reply PZ!! Yes, I did double check everything. I was just making sure.....Thanks.

Also, the only plug I can find local is the BKUR6ET-10 which has a gap of .40. I'm going to assume this is not the plug you are all referring to, correct? the BKUR6ET is gapped at .32, right?

 

[Tomvw]

I don't know if there is a problem with the Delco 41-801 double platinums, but to be sure.
Yes, you need one the types I listed, gapped at 0.32" (0.8mm)

 

[royler74]

Ok, thanks...For some reason, finding any of those in stock around here is proving to be difficult. I'll order them and report back after testing. thanks!

 

[royler74]

Ok, swapped the plugs yesterday (BCP6ET) and it sputtered for about 5 seconds then went back to the normal issue with no start. I went inside and tried it again today and it did the same thing. So I'm starting to lean towards a fuel delivery problem (possibly) Maybe the pump cant keep up with demand??.......However, I tried squirting some starter fluid in the intake and it did nothing. Driving me crazy.....

How does one check fuel pressure with no fuel check port? I'll do some digging? Thanks!

 

[Tomvw]

How does one check fuel pressure with no fuel check port?

You would fit a "T" in the fuel supply line.


Use VCDS to check what temp the CTS is reporting to the ECU.

Try starting with the MAF sensor disconnected.

Do the plugs get wet when trying to start ?

 

[royler74]

ok, im back after a quick vacation. I got back under the hood and something kept telling me it was a fuel issue, so I went ahead and ordered a fuel pressule regulator and a relay. I replaced them both and she finally fired up. It had to be the regulator because I watched it squirting fuel from the injectors previously. Must not have been getting enough fuel....... What a pain this has been, but she idles great now. I still need to make sure she drives good before I give it to my other son.

Tom, thank you for the help you gave me. It's people like you and your knowledge that make forums like this work! Thank you everyone.....Hopefuly I won't be bugging you guys again anytime soon.