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PassatWorld Staff
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Arg. Starting to show the beginning signs of valve guide seal wear at 152K. Slight puffs of blue smoke at throttle lift. Right now it only happens at warm idle after a heat soak, but of course it will get worse.

Is this a reasonable DIY? Or should I just pull the head and take it to a shop?
 

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the deal finder!
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depends on how mechanically inclined you are! :lol:

anyways, i don't think it'll be that hard, assuming you can pull off the head.
 

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You can do it Rusty :poke:

Just a matter of removing the cams and then using a spring compressor. You'll need a way of holding the valves in place (coiled rope in the cylinder or hooking up compressed air to the spark plug hole). Then it's a straight forward remove and replace on the seals. Just be careful not to nick the new seals. This can be avoided by wrapping the valve stems with tape at the notches.
 

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DIY. It's probably easier than tuning that K04.
 

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PassatWorld Staff
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
=
...coiled rope in the cylinder...
That's ingenious - thanks for the suggestion! Is that one of those old mechanics tricks like using shaving cream in the ports when you portmatch?

I assume a good PM while I've got the cams removed is a new cam chain tensioner?

And anything else while the valve cover is off?
 

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=That's ingenious - thanks for the suggestion! Is that one of those old mechanics tricks like using shaving cream in the ports when you portmatch?

I assume a good PM while I've got the cams removed is a new cam chain tensioner?

And anything else while the valve cover is off?
Cam chain tensioner is pretty expensive for PM. Wait until it goes bad (if it does). I would change the cam chain tensioner seals and gaskets along with the cam seals.

You might want to get new valve keepers. Not sure how much they cost though. There have been a few failures on Audis that have dropped an exhaust valve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Cam chain tensioner is pretty expensive for PM. Wait until it goes bad (if it does). I would change the cam chain tensioner seals and gaskets along with the cam seals.

You might want to get new valve keepers. Not sure how much they cost though. There have been a few failures on Audis that have dropped an exhaust valve.
Good ideas, thanks!
 

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Cam chain tensioner is pretty expensive for PM. Wait until it goes bad (if it does).
for an AEB/ATW its $140 list and you can get it for $100 at 1stvwparts.com.

if he's doing the seals, and has highmileage my advice is exactly the opposite. change it while you are in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
$100 is not expensive for PM on an old engine, especially if I'm not paying anyone to put the valve seals in (paid $90 to have it done on my 'rocco head). New tensioner it is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
...it's a straight forward remove and replace on the seals. ...
I have seen "valve seal pliers" that look like they'd be THE tool to remove the seals. Is something like this necessary, or will they come out easily with no special tools?

VW-style spring compressor = $120
VA 6010 = http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_VWAUDI_pg13.htm
VA 6022 = http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_VWAUDI_pg24.htm

Universal style compressor = $30-$40
KD 2078 = http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kd2078.html

Can I successfully use the universal-style compressor, or will the extra cost of the VW-style tool be worth it in terms of time and effort saved?
 

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You are talking about the "split cotter" that keeps the spring seat on the valve stem, and not the spring seats themselves, right?
Right. I have not heard of any problems with Passats, just a couple of A4. But you have to wonder if it was just diagnosed as a failed timing belt since the damage is similar.
 

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Replace those cam tensioners or else this could happen to you!
I pulled the oil pan off yesterday and look at those chunks (center of pic) of plastic chain tensioner. Notice how they collected in a nice little group, that starved the oil pump of vital fluid. And now the motor is junk.

Also notice all the lines in the oil pan. Those are hairline cracks from the car being bottomed out on railroad tracks when my sister in law still owned the car. When the engine was hot it would leak oil through the cracks.



Looks like I'll be shopping for a new motor. :cry:
 

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Arg. Starting to show the beginning signs of valve guide seal wear at 152K. Slight puffs of blue smoke at throttle lift. Right now it only happens at warm idle after a heat soak, but of course it will get worse.

Is this a reasonable DIY? Or should I just pull the head and take it to a shop?
take it to the shop (machine shop).
take the head off and take it machine shop tell them the problem it usialy cost around 300-450$+parts(getcoolparts.com) they will check everything in your head and then they will go over your valve seats and check the flatness of your head so i would take the head to the machine shop, especialy if you deside to do it yourself you will need allot of special tools like valve spring compressor witch is hard to find.... for our cars...
 

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Replace those cam tensioners or else this could happen to you!
I pulled the oil pan off yesterday and look at those chunks (center of pic) of plastic chain tensioner. Notice how they collected in a nice little group, that starved the oil pump of vital fluid. And now the motor is junk.

Also notice all the lines in the oil pan. Those are hairline cracks from the car being bottomed out on railroad tracks when my sister in law still owned the car. When the engine was hot it would leak oil through the cracks.



Looks like I'll be shopping for a new motor. :cry:

dam man with that kind of driving i think the oil starvation is the smallest problem there ...
 

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I have seen "valve seal pliers" that look like they'd be THE tool to remove the seals. Is something like this necessary, or will they come out easily with no special tools?

VW-style spring compressor = $120
VA 6010 = http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_VWAUDI_pg13.htm
VA 6022 = http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_VWAUDI_pg24.htm

Universal style compressor = $30-$40
KD 2078 = http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kd2078.html

Can I successfully use the universal-style compressor, or will the extra cost of the VW-style tool be worth it in terms of time and effort saved?
Get the VW style compressors if you are going to do this yourself. There are also other styles available that would be even better. The valve spring compressor that I am looking for is like a combination of the rail for the VW tool and the universal tool. The screw down compressor rides on the rail and you can crank the springs down and than you have both hands free to take care of those pesky keepers. I currently have the crank it and hold tool and it is doable, get a friend to help.
 
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