From: pete1
To: tregate
Subject: Re: Vac Lines on ATW
These posts may help... http://www.clubb5.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=55015&highlight=
http://www.clubb5.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=299186
There are four braided vac lines on the ATW engine. First, drive the front end of the car up on ramps, arm the parking brake, and take off the belly pan (one nut and 10-or-so dzus screws). Second, take off your engine cover (3 plastic screws), and move your engine coolant tank out of the way (2 screws and 1 electrical connection - don't unhook the coolant lines). This will give you access to the diverter valve, as well as the top and underside of the intake manifold.
Line 1 (in no particular order): At the top-rear end of the intake manifold is a short line that runs to the fuel pressure regulator (FPR). The FPR is a small, round object at the back end of the fuel rail.
Line 2: At the top-front end of the intake manifold is a line that runs underneath the manifold to a small "box" near the underside of intakes #2 and #3. (You may also want to remove your throttle body to get access here: 1 pipe clamp, 4 allen bolts, and 1 electrical connection). The small box is a "check valve".
Line 3: Runs from the check valve forwards towards the radiator fan, then rightwards towards the airbox, then downwards toward the area behind the passenger-side foglight. This line connects to the Diverter Valve (DV), way down near the belly pan. This is the longest line, and the most-prone to breaking. An easy way to re-thread the new line is to tape it to the end of the old line and pull the new line through. You may want to take the opportunity to replace the stock DV while you're at it.
Line 4: Runs from another check valve under the intake manifold (near intakes #3 and #4), backwards toward the firewall and rightwards toward the back end of the engine block. It connects to another round item called a "combi" or "kombi" valve - part of the secondary-air-injection system. Use the same trick as above to thread the new line through where the old line currently runs.
This sounds much worse than it is... Bring a friend, crank up the tunes, and take the afternoon to get the job done. I could probably do the work again in an hour or two - I'm guessing it took me 4 hours the first time.
To: tregate
Subject: Re: Vac Lines on ATW
These posts may help... http://www.clubb5.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=55015&highlight=
http://www.clubb5.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=299186
There are four braided vac lines on the ATW engine. First, drive the front end of the car up on ramps, arm the parking brake, and take off the belly pan (one nut and 10-or-so dzus screws). Second, take off your engine cover (3 plastic screws), and move your engine coolant tank out of the way (2 screws and 1 electrical connection - don't unhook the coolant lines). This will give you access to the diverter valve, as well as the top and underside of the intake manifold.
Line 1 (in no particular order): At the top-rear end of the intake manifold is a short line that runs to the fuel pressure regulator (FPR). The FPR is a small, round object at the back end of the fuel rail.
Line 2: At the top-front end of the intake manifold is a line that runs underneath the manifold to a small "box" near the underside of intakes #2 and #3. (You may also want to remove your throttle body to get access here: 1 pipe clamp, 4 allen bolts, and 1 electrical connection). The small box is a "check valve".
Line 3: Runs from the check valve forwards towards the radiator fan, then rightwards towards the airbox, then downwards toward the area behind the passenger-side foglight. This line connects to the Diverter Valve (DV), way down near the belly pan. This is the longest line, and the most-prone to breaking. An easy way to re-thread the new line is to tape it to the end of the old line and pull the new line through. You may want to take the opportunity to replace the stock DV while you're at it.
Line 4: Runs from another check valve under the intake manifold (near intakes #3 and #4), backwards toward the firewall and rightwards toward the back end of the engine block. It connects to another round item called a "combi" or "kombi" valve - part of the secondary-air-injection system. Use the same trick as above to thread the new line through where the old line currently runs.
This sounds much worse than it is... Bring a friend, crank up the tunes, and take the afternoon to get the job done. I could probably do the work again in an hour or two - I'm guessing it took me 4 hours the first time.
