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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all! Im going thru the B5 rite of passage by doing the control arm replacement. While following the Bentley book when installing the uppers the Bentley says that the upper part of the control arm to the bottom of the strut plate needs to be; Now get this! ( 47" 2 mm.) :crazy: What the heck does that mean?

What is the correct spacing from the top of the control arms to the plate when installing and tightining?

Thanks!
 

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Cheese Head said:
the Bentley says that the upper part of the control arm to the bottom of the strut plate needs to be; Now get this! ( 47" 2 mm.) :crazy: What the heck does that mean?
I think it is supposed to read 47 mm + or - 2 mm.

Joe
 

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For a stock suspension,the upper control arms have to be tightened out of the car. You need to measure 47mm from the arm to the mounting plate before you tighten them. This will ensure the bushing is not stressed while the car is on the ground.
 

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Is your suspension stock or lowered? If it is lowered, you will have to ratio the spacing according to the drop to insure that your bushings aren't stressed. IIRC, the correctly ratioed spacing for my H&R OE Sport springs (3/4" drop) was 35mm. I documented it here on CB5 somewhere...

It's called Trigonometry... and we never thought it would be useful in the "real" world... LOL...
 

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Rusty said:
Is your suspension stock or lowered? If it is lowered, you will have to ratio the spacing according to the drop to insure that your bushings aren't stressed. IIRC, the correctly ratioed spacing for my H&R OE Sport springs (3/4" drop) was 35mm. I documented it here on CB5 somewhere...

It's called Trigonometry... and we never thought it would be useful in the "real" world... LOL...
Rusty,
I have 1BE that is 20mm lover that OE and have issue with squeeqing bushings on stabilizers.they are lubed with silicon grease with no success. In same time a friend of mine helped me changing left upper control arms and we didn't done any of those you and PZ are saying. Does it mean that result of not doin' it is my squeeking bushings (PUR)?

TIA
 

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Nenad said:
...Rusty,
I have 1BE that is 20mm lover that OE and have issue with squeeqing bushings on stabilizers.they are lubed with silicon grease with no success. In same time a friend of mine helped me changing left upper control arms and we didn't done any of those you and PZ are saying. Does it mean that result of not doin' it is my squeeking bushings (PUR)?

TIA
It might be. Hard to troubleshoot over the Internet :) My personal opinion is that a significant percentage of the control arm failures are brought on by lowered suspension w/o re-adjusting the control arms (both upper and lower) to their new "rest" point.

And now that it is already squeaking, even re-adjusting them may not get rid of the "squeak". However, it should extend their life. I'm a bit busy at work today, but sometime soon I'll try to find my original thread and bump it.

CB5 History: There was a true "oldie" member (Spec, I think) that posted much the same info a year or two before I did. I found out about it after-the-fact, I think maybe Macabre or CRD99 pointed me to it. Lost in the archives somewhere. It pays to read (and save) the tech posts... :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
XedoS69 said:
I have the same problem, but when I chnged my control arm last weekend I did not see anything to adjust at the upper control arm :? :???:
You have to loosen the bolt that holds the CA in place. Then you have to postion the control arm in the place that you want it and tighten the bolt back up. It will stay in that new position.
 

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Cheese Head said:
XedoS69 said:
I have the same problem, but when I chnged my control arm last weekend I did not see anything to adjust at the upper control arm :? :???:
You have to loosen the bolt that holds the CA in place. Then you have to postion the control arm in the place that you want it and tighten the bolt back up. It will stay in that new position.
the one on the inner side?
 

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Cheese Head said:
Yes on bothe the inner and outer. They both have a bolt and nut that secures them in place.
This is clear, but I do not get what distance to measure? CA are not variable length. :???:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
As per the Bentley you measure from the outerm most portion of the strut plate ( thats the plate that the CA's go into) the bottom of the strut plate to the top of the outer CA. The measurement shoud be aprox. 47mm
 

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Cheese Head said:
As per the Bentley you measure from the outerm most portion of the strut plate ( thats the plate that the CA's go into) the bottom of the strut plate to the top of the outer CA. The measurement shoud be aprox. 47mm
This is for OE suspension, right? Does Bentley also reffering on 1BE, I have 1BE springs (-20mm)?
 

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Interesting post.

I just replaced my upper CA and installed Eibach pro and i was wondering what the spacing between the plate and the arms should be.

Should'nt a simple ratio calculation be able to determine the spacing i.e. 47mm is to the height before dropping as X is to height after dropping? Makes sense?

Also, if the spacing needs to be less than 47mm if the car is dropped what is the easiest way to remedy that? Could I just jack up the car loosen the bolts on the control arms then jack the suspesion to the correct height (spacing) and tighten the bolts
 

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RobsB said:
Should'nt a simple ratio calculation be able to determine the spacing i.e. 47mm is to the height before dropping as X is to height after dropping? Makes sense?
If only it were that easy. The problem is that the 47mm is an absolute measurement, whereas "height before/after dropping" is relative. The trigonometry involved actually does make the final calcualtion a simple ratio - it's just that you need to understand the suspension geometry in order to come up with the "right" ratio. And even then, it's only an approximation, because the control arms and their pivot points don't make a clean, right triangle.

RobsB said:
Also, if the spacing needs to be less than 47mm if the car is dropped what is the easiest way to remedy that? Could I just jack up the car loosen the bolts on the control arms then jack the suspesion to the correct height (spacing) and tighten the bolts
This would be the ideal way to do it, but it is really hard to get a wrench in there. Much less a Torque wrench. This is one reason why Herman abandoned the K-mac adjustable (upper control arm) camber bushings.
 
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