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You should be fine with 2 cans with each can running 1 line if you plan on only going to 8k. Another option is to run a line to each can with a valve that is then connected to the exhaust pipe after the 02 sensor, this will act like a vacuum. Bascially like how the old dragsters used to run a line to their collector from the valve cover. I just sent a few of those parts to a friend of mine in Greece that is going to do that setup on his B7 A4 1.8t.


Well same type of damage as if your timing belt breaks, basically cams stop turnning and get smacked by the piston. Bad at low rpms while daily driving, not something I would want experiance at 8k+ rpms.


http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?357382-This-is-what-happened-if-you-don-t-torque-the-camshaft-gear.

I have pictures from another guy that had the same issue twice and he is an Audi tech and had a Audi shop work on the car too.
 

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wow wish i had the skills to do that to mine...i open the hood and have no clue what im lookin at hahaha but i guess im learning a lil by reading all this stuff..hopefully
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Hi all!!!
Yeah, no flaming cause I been away so long. But life has dealt some heavy blows latetly so I've had to divert my energy away from my build alittle. But, we're back!!! Long story short, remember the fluke brand new timing belt breaking setting up the 2L build? Well that build had about 1500 miles on it and another fluke...a valve dropped under cruising conditions and basically necessitated a rebuild!!! I was hesitant to post until she was solid (alittle StupidStitious these day)...so with 2000 some odd relatively hard miles on her after the rebuild...I'm posting my latest dynos and pixx.

The bottom end remained the same (full stroker build with crank girdle), but we actually went with an AEB head and IM this time around (again, built back to the heavy duty specs as before, this time thru QED Power), along with a 70mm TB. As for tuning, we chose to switch to Eurodyne with the Maestro 7 tuning suite (previously had Unitronic; nothing against them, just that I wanted the very individualized tuning that comes with the Maestro...almost like a standalone system when it comes to tuning), and the shop now employs a phenominal tuner who has been tuning with MegaSquirt and other full stand alone systems for some 20yrs. They got a base program from Chris Tapp, then Sam (the tuner at Eurowise) spend 2 days just driving around "listening and feeling the car, to see what she wants". Then he adjusted the Tapp tune based on what he "heard and felt" on the street as his starting point. Then he spend 2 days on the dyno dialing it in. This guy is awesome. He rode with me to check my driving style so he could tweak the tune around how I wanted not to have to bang on it just to get it to respond (he's from the old school, big displacement era where he believes that you should get the more power you can from even a small engine without having to live at 8krpm). He worked with not only the timing setting in 500rpms increments (he's really particular), but also the torque control settings from the ecm. He said that most people who have the big bo builds settle for the "no power till 4500-5000rpm" performance of small displacement engines with big bo's, and have no idea of how much fun it can be when you tune it to run like a V series engine. He promised me that he would make my car drive like a V6 off boost. Of course I had my doubts cause I already had driven my car before with the first build and figured there was only so much you can do with only 2liters and a 3076R (oh, we also went with a Precision Turbo billet wheel and larger .70a/r compressor housing). Dude...I've let 2 other people drive my car and all swear I'm pushing aleast 6 cyl's because there is soooooo much more torque down low now. He made it super responsive even though there is still some lag, its nothing like before. Full spool hits somewhere around 3500-3700rpms with the Precision wheel, but off boost, you can short shift all day long (i find myself rolling down 45mph streets in 4th and 5th all day long).

On the dyno plots, the power and torque numbers are in red, and the AFR's and Boost levels are in black and the smoothing factor is at 35! Tune was done on 92oct instead of 93 because not all stations carry the 93 in my area. Water/meth was used only in the last run cause we were trying to hit 30-32lbs, and I'm only using the blue washing fluid instead of a full 50/50mix. I'm pushing the 830cc injectors @3bar fuel pressure and a 10.2lb wastegate spring. Check out where that bo' hits full spool!!!
Okay, enough ranting....here are the goodies!!!







11lbs of boost, 291-292whp/didn't get torque numbers


21.4lbs of boost 383whp/310ish wtq


25.6lbs of boost 445whp/373wtq (last build hit 439whp/402wtq at 31.8lbs of boost)


27.9lbs of boost 460whp/387wtq...then TB hose clamps wouldn't hold. We has since replace those and will make more runs!!!


Thanks everyone on PW and AZ for not only all your support, but all your encouragement. Definitely a huge thanks goes out to the crew at Eurowise here in Charlotte, Chris Tapp and Eurodyne, Bob at QED Power (dude, this engine didn't even smoke during the breakin period) and CIN Motorsports for letting us abuse their dyno!!!:bowdown:

Comments, suggestions, feedback are always lovingly welcomed and received!!!

Juce
 

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Discussion Starter #47
thanks Mike!!! Just trying to do y'all proud on the boards!!! What's next for your dude...you're is a true beast!!!
 

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Posted that info on your other thread, but I will make sure to start a thread once Full-Race has finshed making the new setup. I just pray my built 01A transmission holds up. lol
 

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he just thinks he's amazing. really. no kidding.
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EUROJUCE, diggin' the setup bro, and very nice numbers. :)

Technology, the only replacement for displacement :)
Not really...

A built turbocharged 3 liter will still make more power than a similarly built 2 liter... ;) I know of a particular 3 liter that will surpass 400 wheel horsepower at ~20 PSI...

Then again, pressure doesn't mean much, it's all about your intake CFMs.
 

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EUROJUCE, diggin' the setup bro, and very nice numbers. :)



Not really...

A built turbocharged 3 liter will still make more power than a similarly built 2 liter... ;) I know of a particular 3 liter that will surpass 400 wheel horsepower at ~20 PSI...

Then again, pressure doesn't mean much, it's all about your intake CFMs.
It is all about CFM. So the biggest factor then becomes the turbo.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Hi All!!!
Thanks for all the support and kudos!!! We are going to head back to the dyno this week. We have to check the programming to be sure that the new EM hasn't altered the power delivery or the efficiency. We're hoping that the design of the runners will add a little sum sum to the performance. Here are pixx...





We went from open dump to exhaust dump simply to bring the noise level down under full tilt boogie!!!

Hopefully I will get the dyno numbers up to compare the different manifolds...
Hopefully I'll see some of you at SOWO!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #56
It held up "okay". The edges frayed horribly, and the buttons that secured it with wire broke off. Once it frays, it becomes a hazard to u cause of the exposed wires that support the wrap internally.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Hey Guys....

Look at #53 and tell me your thoughts on how the wg dump tube is plumbed back into the exhaust. I'm wondering if the angle or the placement is not optimal. Give me some feedback, especially if you have experience (or know someone who does) with closed dump systems....I'm trying to tease out if that angle and that placement is going to hurt the performance of the turbo (ie, backpressur on the wg, the turbine wheel, increased temps, etc).
Let me know what ya know!!
 
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