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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've been running APR Stage 3 (the full kit) for a few years now, and I have not been satisfied with the software. My local shop is a Unitronic dealer and he is pushing me to get the 440cc tune.

Being it is already a STG 3 with APR front mount, the only things I would need to upgrade are the injectors (already have them), fpr, maf housing and fuel pump.

Does anybody have any experience with this tune on their 1.8t B5? My APR software is very inconsistent and runs anywhere from 15-21psi on any given day. The APR software came out in the late 90s and there have been no revisions since. Is it worth the extra $1200 or so investment to go Unitronic?

Any input would be appreciated.

Oh and of course a few pics of the car in question:


 

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Software cannot become inconsistent with age, but supporting hardware can be. Boost could vary due to a bad N75 valve, wastegate, or DV. As far as being from the late 90s, this has more to do with introduction of the wideband ME7 system by Audi in 2000. Every tuner stopped developing on the narrowband ME5 system. The APR S3 is probably still the best setup around for our AEB motors, if you are willing to spend that kind of money on a ten year chassis. No doubt you can get even more power, as in APRs S3+, or the Unitronic file with larger MAF and injectors. But what you are saying is the present S3 is not working properly, no? What makes you think changing software will make everything right? Does Uni even have a decent nDBW solution for the GT28r turbo? I know they're supposedly working on a tune for the popular FT, which flows almost the same. My guess is you'd get one of these "custom" tunes, and you'd be the only person running it. Good luck with that.
 

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personally, me, I think APR tuning is a hack job. Their customer service is not that far behind as well.

I got the APR 93 tune with very little mods and it Never worked correctly from day one. APR keep telling me there is a different issue with my car when I call, (N75, MAF, Throttle body, spark plug {one person on the phone will say stock, another one will say one range cooler} exhaust leak, hose leak, DV, PCV system, etc...) I have replaced every item above like a stupid monkey and it still does what the OP says. Some times it will boost high and some times low. Some times it will boost to 20PSI and the car doesn't go anywhere. Other times, it will boost to 15PSI and the tires light up. My wife even tells me when she drives my car, she has to double pump the gas just to get it going at times.

On VWVORTEX, UNI is trusted on these cars. Now, keep in mind the 440cc tune from them WILL make more power. Then again, you don't have a safety net on your AEB engine, so if you over boost and stuff, you can kill everything.

I say you can entertain the UNI tunes. Mainly, you have someone you can go and crotch punch if something goes wrong. Local dealers are normally the best support.
 

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If you have a GT28rs or 2871, yeah, I'd highly recommend either unitronic or eurodyne. If you're going to write out your MAF, eurodyne.
 

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I have Uni on my GTRS setup. I have the 415's not 440's. I didn't have the greatest experience shipping my ECU to them, but if you have local support, go for it. It works pretty good, I have a few issues: I boost up to 24psi's, which I wanted to limit it to 21 PSI's, so I have to go with a MBC. The only other issue I have is when the car is cold it runs like shit. Every time I change gears the car bogs and bucks, but it is fine once I hit 190 degrees. I feels pretty fast, but I have AWD, so I have yet to dyno it, but I'm thinking I'm around 325 chp, 260 whp, maybe a little more.(there's not a lot of difference between their 415-630 software). You may be able to get by without doing the fuel pump as well, you're right on the line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Software cannot become inconsistent with age, but supporting hardware can be.
I spoke with APR, there is a very small chance I could have a bad chip. I sent it in and they will have a look and warranty it if it's bad.

I have Uni on my GTRS setup. I have the 415's not 440's. I didn't have the greatest experience shipping my ECU to them, but if you have local support, go for it. It works pretty good, I have a few issues: I boost up to 24psi's, which I wanted to limit it to 21 PSI's, so I have to go with a MBC. The only other issue I have is when the car is cold it runs like shit. Every time I change gears the car bogs and bucks, but it is fine once I hit 190 degrees. I feels pretty fast, but I have AWD, so I have yet to dyno it, but I'm thinking I'm around 325 chp, 260 whp, maybe a little more.(there's not a lot of difference between their 415-630 software). You may be able to get by without doing the fuel pump as well, you're right on the line.
Thanks for the input, why did you choose the 415 over the 440 tune?
 

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The green top 415's at 3 bar flow just like 440's. Power wise there isn't much difference between 415/440/550/630s, all tunes I considered. My biggest goal was not rebuilding my bottom end, and I was afraid I was cutting it pretty close with the gtrs anyway, so went most conservative. I have all supporting mods, test pipe, exhaust, FMIC, hi flow ex mani, and all the other bits and pieces.
 

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I been running unitronic for 3-4 years now with 630cc and 2871 eli. dyno at 300whp and no problems with their software but customer service is not the greatest or fast, you do not need to upgrade your fuel pump,unless you go way bigger, I believe Mikey is running gt30 on stock pump with no problems if I had money I would switch to Eurodyne in a heartbeat better software and customer service ;)
 
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