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Discussion Starter #1
Hello [Passat]World!

First of all a big thank you to this great community! :bowdown: I have really enjoyed learning the ins and outs of this platform from this forum. I haven't posted much because most of my questions and problems have been addressed in previous threads. (and I use the search bar) Now I'm asking for opinions and a little more experience/wisdom than I know how to search for.

I believe my turbo is shot. ('99 AEB 5sp 170k mi. stock) I am only getting 1-2psi @WOT and the dreaded "dentist drill" noise. I've removed almost everything attached to the turbo (without removing it) to check for endplay, but I couldn't really tell if there was any. Which fan is usually the culprit? Are there any other ways to diagnose a blown turbo?

If i do end up replacing my turbo, (or even if I don't) what other components should I replace/service while I'm in there/have the garage space? What are the most common gasket and hose failures? Is there a way to clean the oil feed lines or do they need to be replaced? I have a budget of ~$1000. I wouldn't mind doing some modest upgrades, but mostly want to keep her reliable. I purchased her from the original owner in '10 with 100k mi. Heres what I've done so far:

Between 100k - 115k; Coolant Flange, Camshaft Pos Sensor, Cam Chain Tensioner, TB w/water pump, ICM, PCV valve/hoses
since 120k; ABS head, FCP Euro control arm kit, front brake lines, front rotors & pads, clutch flush

Any suggestions would be highly appreciated. Thanks!
 

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In for a penny, in for a pound. ;)

Price out...
A K04-15 turbo with gaskets and bolts.
FMIC kit from ebay.
Tune from Ian at Reflect Tuning.
710N diverter valve

If you can swing that, you'll be getting back an entirely different car.

Eventually re-do the exhaust in 2.5" pipe with one or two Borla mufflers.
 

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...I am only getting 1-2psi @WOT and the dreaded "dentist drill" noise. I've removed almost everything attached to the turbo (without removing it) to check for endplay, but I couldn't really tell if there was any. Which fan is usually the culprit? Are there any other ways to diagnose a blown turbo?
Either disconnect the cat converter flange and move enough to reach into the exhaust housing, and try rotating the turbine wheel. Or remove the rubber ducting at the front, and wiggle/rotate the compressor impeller. If you can move either end enough to feel metal-metal scraping, then the sleeve bearings are beyond worn out. Movement to cause noise is usually radial, on the compressor impeller side, because the clearances with respect to the housing are much tighter. It wouldn't be a bad idea to start the engine with the turbo's oil line disconnected, and directed into a container, so you can proove there is oil flow.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
...It wouldn't be a bad idea to start the engine with the turbo's oil line disconnected, and directed into a container, so you can proove there is oil flow.
Thanks for answering my main question. Does the engine need to actually run to check this or would 15-20 seconds of cranking suffice?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
In for a penny, in for a pound. ;)

Price out...
A K04-15 turbo with gaskets and bolts.
FMIC kit from ebay.
Tune from Ian at Reflect Tuning.
710N diverter valve

If you can swing that, you'll be getting back an entirely different car.

Eventually re-do the exhaust in 2.5" pipe with one or two Borla mufflers.
Maintenance before modification? Most of my hoses/clamps/wires are still factory original. I'm replacing more of these with every project, but was wondering if there were others I should keep an eye out for.
Would a K04-15 do much without upgraded injectors? Doesn't it require a bigger hose on the impeller end? I'm also assuming any K04-15 i see for less than $1000 is a bad idea, no?
 

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Maintenance before modification is a sound way to do things but sometimes you run into a scenario where you're replacing a part and you could replace it with something other then the stock part. When my stock exhaust fell apart is when I sprung for a performance exhaust replacement. I was going to drop cash on a repair one way or the other. When my K03 died, I replaced it with a Gpop Shop hybrid. Again, I was going to drop cash on the repair one way or the other. That's what I meant by the "in for a penny" comment. You can probably repair to stock inside of your budget. But as long as you're going to be dropping big dollars, you have the option of going to the next level by spending what you were already going to spend plus some more.

The injectors, fuel pressure regulator, MAF you need to use will depend on what the tune was written to work with. Find out from the tuner beforehand what hardware is needed. If you do end up needing them, a set of 4 injectors isn't crazy expensive. The turbo is going to be the big ticket item of this job. A K04-15 is a direct bolt-on replacement for the stock K03. The same hoses fit the same openings. The same exhaust manifold and CAT. The same water and oil supply's and returns. The difference is all on the inside of the turbocharger. A K04 kicks in at about the same RPM as a K03 but it will breathe better through the mids and high rpms. The car will drive about the same unless you put your foot into it and then you'll feel the difference.

I'm not trying to sell you on upgrading. But if you had already planned on upgrading someday, now would be a cost effective time to do it.
 
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