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Did you post the same comment on a Honda forum, hahaha only giving you a hard time...obviously we're all here because we feel imports are built better than domestic ;).
 

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My car is still covered and I just got the STOP ENGINE warning. Contacted customer care and I have an appointment on Thursday of next week. While talking to the service manager, he stated that the first thing they do is to drop the oil pan, check the pick up screen and pump. He said he has had 4 cases of the sludge problem and has only had to change the oil screen, pump and flush the system. He said he suspects but can't confirm until he opens up the engine that this will also be the case with mine. Even if that's what they do to my engine, I'm not sure that I'm comfortable that my engine will be sludge free after they are done. Does anyone have any thoughts about what all should be done? I have a 04 Passat with 104000 miles, I'm the second owner, I bought it from the VW Dealership with 49,000 miles on it and have used Mobil 1 5w40 since I bought the car. I love this car and it doesn't have any other issues with running (ticking, etc.), I want it to stay that way and be sure the problem is not just going to take me past the warranty and leave me stuck with the cost.

Thanks in advance!!
Jason
 

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My car is still at the dealership and after seeing all my records, my car is covered 100% They are changing the pick-up tube, oil pump, oil lines, and doing a flush. I'll let you know how it goes.
 

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there is one thing to remember about oils that all have different ingredients how much zink is in the synthetic oils compared to conventional oils which is in a sweptco oil site! also i added a 2.5qt oil cooler before the turbo to lower the oil temp going in thus slowing down the oil burnoff rate I've noticed the oil takes longer to change color as the miles go by.
 

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there is one thing to remember about oils that all have different ingredients how much zink is in the synthetic oils compared to conventional oils which is in a sweptco oil site! also i added a 2.5qt oil cooler before the turbo to lower the oil temp going in thus slowing down the oil burnoff rate I've noticed the oil takes longer to change color as the miles go by.
What type of oil cooler are you using that you added before the turbo? Where did you get it at? I was thinking of something similar in order to add more total oil to the system and keep it running cooler than the current temp.
 

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1.8T in the Passat & A4 have this issue. 1.8T in the TT, Jetta, Golf! Bug do not.
Forget dino. A good synthetic every 6 months or 5K tops.
 

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I've read the entire thread on the turbo sludge lawsuit and remained baffled by one thing: there are a number owners out there that claim to have experienced a sludge problem, even when using synthetic oil changed at 5K mile intervals. How can that be? I suspect that unethical oil change places (and some dealers) substituted cheaper mineral oil for synthetic oil without telling the customer. It's the perfect petty crime because the customer can't tell the difference, at least initially, and the shop can charge the higher price for the synthetic. And down the road when the sludge problem develops, short of an oil analysis, it's impossible to pin point the cause and assign the true blame. In my case, at least one of the oil changes done during the first two years by the dealer (as part of the 2 year free maintenance arrangement) used 10W-40, according to the receipt, not the 5W-40 specified by VW. At the time I didn't think anything of it. They were supposed to use synthetic oil, but they substituted cheaper mineral 10W-40 oil and pocketed the higher reimbursement from VW for the more expensive oil. Those bastards! That's what I think happened to many of the sludge victims. Perhaps some of the dealers used mineral oil out of ignorance and charged honest prices, but the fact that a number of sludge cases occurred where customer has receipts showing the correct oil leads me to think fraud was committed.

I've changed the oil on my 2001 1.8T every 5-6K miles w/ synthetic oil since the 2nd year of ownership, and the drain oil never comes out black. It has ample detergency remaining. For sure it is darker than the drain oil my from my former Accord, which I changed every 7.5K. There's no doubt about it, the 1.8T runs the oil hot and hard. But even with the small sump, synthetic oil is up to the task. Of course a larger sump would have provided more margin of safety against extended OCIs, and the decision to specify a larger filter is admission of that.
 

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Hi,

Can someone direct me to the official VW document that details the requirement that a "larger" filter is required/recommended for the engine?

Thanks,
 

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I just reviewed this, as I do from time to time and have to tell you gents that 6k miles is still too frequent for synthetic oil and you're not getting your money's worth. FWIW, I do OAs on my 1.8t 2004 estate and I'm at 205k now. Every 10k-15k miles is safe. I did extensive studying and with the larger Mann Filter and Rotella T6 I was able to go 15k on the same filter. I currently go 10-11k and do the full change.

I've also changed just the filter at 7.5k and topped off and then a full change of filter and oil at 15k and the OA came back excellent. I could do this each time but chose to go the 10-12k with the full change.

I'm studying the new Castrol Edge spec for our cars on this current run.

I do leak oil but it's about 1qt every 7k (roughly).

If you'd like to see the OAs I can send them your way but do try to get more miles out of the oil.
 

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I just reviewed this, as I do from time to time and have to tell you gents that 6k miles is still too frequent for synthetic oil and you're not getting your money's worth. FWIW, I do OAs on my 1.8t 2004 estate and I'm at 205k now. Every 10k-15k miles is safe. I did extensive studying and with the larger Mann Filter and Rotella T6 I was able to go 15k on the same filter. I currently go 10-11k and do the full change.
The impetus of this thread was the VW warranty extension program. That required 5K intervals, and wasn't open to interpretation; if VW wanted the oil changed under a full moon, that would be the way it was done. Now that (as far as I know) all the cars are out of that coverage, people can be a little more flexible.

I'd certainly encourage people to have an oil analysis done; the ones I've had done indicate a longer interval was possible, but you know what? For the additional penny or two a mile, it's easier just to follow the factory recommendation.
 

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Since selling them and throughout personal ownership I fully agree with just following what V-Dub stipulates for intervals. But just IMO ;)

I've been uber strict with changing my oil on if not before the stipulated 5k. OEM filters AND drain-plugs every oil change. Mobile 1 SAE 502/505 VW Approved 5-40 for most if its engine life and now M1 0-40 (fully syn)

I still think I need a de-sludge. Only 260k but always driven hard and put away wet ;)
 

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I just reviewed this, as I do from time to time and have to tell you gents that 6k miles is still too frequent for synthetic oil and you're not getting your money's worth. FWIW, I do OAs on my 1.8t 2004 estate and I'm at 205k now. Every 10k-15k miles is safe. I did extensive studying and with the larger Mann Filter and Rotella T6 I was able to go 15k on the same filter. I currently go 10-11k and do the full change.

I've also changed just the filter at 7.5k and topped off and then a full change of filter and oil at 15k and the OA came back excellent. I could do this each time but chose to go the 10-12k with the full change.

I'm studying the new Castrol Edge spec for our cars on this current run.

I do leak oil but it's about 1qt every 7k (roughly).

If you'd like to see the OAs I can send them your way but do try to get more miles out of the oil.
Your results are not typical because you drive 20K miles per year, which is easier on oil than the infrequent, short trip driving that many of us do.

The optimal oil change internal depends not only on driving patterns, but also the sump capacity. It is telling that VW recommends 10K OCI for the new 1.8T (EA888). That is probably reasonable considering that the sump size is nearly 7 quarts. If sump size for the original 1.8T was larger, there would be no sludge lawsuit.
 

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Kinda on the same topic, I think, why the increase in sump and decrease the valves per cylinder to 4 from the 'renowned' 5/cyl?
Bring back the 1ate! I love my 4c.t. - but again why did V-dub take away the 20v?
 

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Kinda on the same topic, I think, why the increase in sump and decrease the valves per cylinder to 4 from the 'renowned' 5/cyl?
Bring back the 1ate! I love my 4c.t. - but again why did V-dub take away the 20v?
Direct injection
 

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August 2019 update

2001 Passat wagon, pre-facelift, AUG 1.8T, manufactured Sep 2000

replaced the 19-year-old valve cover gasket last week

mostly stop-and-go, short trip "severe service" driving

Mobil 1 0W-40 & Purolator L40316 filter on a 3K mi / 1 year OCI

no sign of the dreaded sludge or coke in the top end
 

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Them there is my AUG engine. Replaced under warranty due to sludge in 98 with 89K on it. Then I repaired the new owners oil pressure issue at 152K (JB weld pushed through the cracked pan), replaced the pump and pan. A year later, with no miles added, I put the engine into my car, new Ebay turbo was dead. It's been running well for over 4yr/20K with good pressure.
 
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