I think that should be fine. I haven't checked with a pyrometer, but I suspect the turbo cools rather quickly. Even after a fast highway run, I just let it idle a couple of minutes before shutting down. I don't wait at all if I've taken it easy on city streets.I just bought an 01 passat 1.8T. when i go on long trips or say to work wich is about a 45min commute i take the exit before and let the engine cool on city speeds for about 10min... is that long enough and should i let it cool when i drive just around town?
this is why we tend to hate most dealerships. find a respectable indie vw mechanic and stop throwing your money away at the stealership. 3k will buy you a new complete engine. replacing the cam chain tensioner isn't a fun job, but it can be done along with a new oil pump, screen, pickup tube and cleaning within a day and for much less than $3k. i'd suspect the dealership is smashing you over the head in hopes of stealing your car in trade for a new car. never trust a mechanic that refers you to a salesman. it's a classic move. they get your car for cheap under the guise that the repairs are too costly, sell you a new car, repair your old car and sell it for a nice profit. don't fall for it. have it towed to a good indie shop and if possible, order the parts yourself once you get a good diagnosis of what the real issue is.I have a 2002 B5.5 1.8T. Never had a problem, did good maintenance - always asked for synthetic (never did maintenance myself. Always went to dealership with exception of maybe two token oil changes in the lifetime of the car). On Monday, I got the dreaded oil pressure STOP message. I checked the oil, it was a little low so topped it off. Drove maybe another 3-5 miles with stop message going on and off, then started to hear the cam chain tensioner rapping identical to the video some chap posted of the same. Stopped immediately and called for a tow.
I don't ever recall seeing or getting mail notification from anyone on the recall class action. For that matter I don't recall that I did get it and responded either way.
Got a call from the dealer this AM. Said no oil pressure, maybe cam chain tensioner. He asked if I were sitting down and said it'd be about $3,100 to fix..more than the car is worth and said he'd refer me to his sales guy, and gave me the name of one of the particular sales guys to get ahold of and talk to this afternoon.
I don't know but to me this looks, acts, and smells like a sludge issue or even a plugged oil pump screen or tube or sensor. Can any of you tell me the answers on these two questions I have?:
Does a ballpark 3grand estimate sound about the right ballpark?
If I were not signed up into the class action suit on this problem then am I sh1t out of luck on VW doing anything about this and I'll just have to eat it myself?
Sorry, honda engines are wonderful and very reliable. But to look AS GOOD AS THE DAY IT CAME OFF THE SHOWROOM FLOOR is quite an overstatement. The fact that these engines didn't hold quite as much oil as most definetly contributed to the issue. VW is responsible for not telling people to run full synthetic from the get go. The biggest factor is definetly the under educated americans who are in such a hurry that they do not allow this cool down period after running at high rpms or for an extended period of time. I just got the oil pressure light @ 253,000 miles and reading all that I have, I assumed the worst and went ahead and put a new pump and pickup tube on her. Still got the light and it turned out to be the switch. Now though, I have the peace of mind that I have new bits and I cleaned the crap out of my pan and crankcase while down there. These are good cars with lazy owners more often than not when major sludge issues arise. Now at 255,000 miles, she has loads of oil pressure according to my pressure gauge and runs as good as ever!I got 200k miles out of my '99 1.8T before the oil pump went out on it. I ALWAYS used full synthetic every time I changed my oil. I did eventually have a sludge problem but I can't complain about going 200k without a problem. That being said I went 256k with my Civic SI and the inside of the engine looked just as good as the day it came off the showroom floor using nothing but full synthetic.
My 2000 went through the dealer sludge fix. What they did was replace the oil pump and pickup tube, and the turbocharger oil lines. They also hooked the engine up to a lubrication system hot flush machine. No oil pressure issue for the following 150,000 miles. Will that fix your ticking noise? Maybe, but I wouldn't count on it.So what EXACTLY needs to be replaced to take all the sludge out of the running my Car and get it basically back to where it should be? And would that fix the ticking noise that I hear after car for a long duration of time? Or after going down hill?
Shoot, well thanks for the info. I'll keep that in mind once I hit the Lottery and fix EVERYTHING worth with my car. (Even though it would be cheaper to buy a new car.)My 2000 went through the dealer sludge fix. What they did was replace the oil pump and pickup tube, and the turbocharger oil lines. They also hooked the engine up to a lubrication system hot flush machine. No oil pressure issue for the following 150,000 miles. Will that fix your ticking noise? Maybe, but I wouldn't count on it.