Volkswagen Passat Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Trunk light doesn´t work, any ideas? (PICS Added!)

Hi there,

I´ve noticed that my trunk´s light simply doesn´t work, I´ve already replaced the lamp but

had no success.

Any ideas regarding this? Note that I have a little problem with the central lock (that

broken soldier bug) but I´m not sure if they are related.

Thanks a lot.
Vitor

EDIT:

I have just removed that black cover and took a lot of pictures from the lock. Could you

please tell me which parts need to be replaced? I´ve read a lot about this 8D5959489

microswitch but I can´t seem to identify this part between all that stuff.

Basically I need to know exactly which screws to remove and how to get access to the

defective part! Also I noticed that after a couple of minutes, even with the lid OPENED, the lock activates by itself, ALONE.

PICS:













 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
Do a search in the Mobile Electronics forum (what it's doing there I don't know, should be in the permanent info base forum, it's such a common problem) for "trunk microswitch". You'll find several posts, one called "No light in my boot/trunk". The last post in that series has a link to a write up with pictures which, if it worked, would tell you all you need to know. Seems that much valuable info from the old ClubB5 days was lost in translation to this forum. Good luck, it's only a $10. part and 5 minutes to replace as I recall.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,071 Posts
x2 in the microswitch. If the car is locked and you open the trunk and then the car locks itself with the trunk open after a couple minutes, definitely the switch. Also, you won't get the trunk open warning on the dash.

Takes a bit more than five minutes to do due to all the screws that need to come off, but it is easy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
x2 in the microswitch. If the car is locked and you open the trunk and then the car locks itself with the trunk open after a couple minutes, definitely the switch. Also, you won't get the trunk open warning on the dash.

Takes a bit more than five minutes to do due to all the screws that need to come off, but it is easy.
Hey, that´s right! I´ve never noticed this "trunk open warning on the dash" but also never tested this "auto-locking" with the trunk opened after a couple of minutes. Wierd.

I´ll go check those old posts and give you my feedback later.

Thanks!

EDIT: Err.. Sorry people but I´ll need a little more help on locating those texts. All I get are broken links with no PICS for me to follow. Any ideas??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,071 Posts
With the car locked and alarm set (normal locking procedure) hit the unlock on the remote twice. First click will unlock driver's door, second will unlock the rest and the trunk.

Open just the trunk and leave it open.

If the microswitch is bad, the car will think you never opened any doors and lock itself again in a couple minutes as a precaution.

I know that the unlocking features can be set up differently, but the above will be how most people have it set.

Anyways, if the car locks itself again with the trunk open, bad switch.

Cost is US$10-15 from the dealer. Whole job should only take about 30-45 minutes to do if that. Most difficult part is removing the liner from the trunk lid. Not difficult, just tedious. A bunch of screws and they're all covered with some fuzzy junk to match the liner.

Remove the liner, unplug the harness from the trunk latch, remove the latch, replace the switch, put it all back together. Piece of cake.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Bump, pictures added. Need help on how to REMOVE the latch. Thank you all for being so nice!

Regards,
Vitor
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,071 Posts
Remove the two black nuts towards the top of your picture. Whole mechanism will come out. The micro switch will be under that, looks like yours is black. Small little gizmo, about the size of your thumb. The replacement may be grey, which is fine.

Here's a diagram. The switch is #17:


I think I may actually have the part number at home, but I won't be there for a few hours. You can also use a switch from a Jetta, which ends up being cheaper, but I can't remember the details.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Remove the two black nuts towards the top of your picture. Whole mechanism will come out. The micro switch will be under that, looks like yours is black. Small little gizmo, about the size of your thumb. The replacement may be grey, which is fine.

I think I may actually have the part number at home, but I won't be there for a few hours. You can also use a switch from a Jetta, which ends up being cheaper, but I can't remember the details.
Hey, thanks for the help.

Err. When you say the two black nuts towards the top of your picture, do you mean these black little guys?



Are you sure that they are the only parts that actually hold the hole mechanism to the lid? Sorry to bother but I´m really confused with this.

The part number I´ve got in mind is 8D5959489 and it costs around R$ 60,00 (or US$ 30) here in Brazil. Ack :(



Regards,
Vitor.

EDIT: ARGH. Just noticed. According to what YOU posted on your scheme, the defective part SEEMS to be part nº 7 on MY scheme. Confirm that? Holy Christ, it costs R$ 150 (~US$ 80) here! So the right part number would be 1J0/ 962103/A????

DAMN!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here's a link to a Jetta site. The procedure for your passat it identical:
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=945378
Hi there,

I got total confused here. According to greencar´s illustration, the defective part which needs to be replaced is 1J0/ 962103/A BUT according to this tutorial you suggested, the defective part number is 8D5959489

:rolleyes:

I´m sorry foi being such a lame, but around here these parts are quite expensive, I simply can not afford the risk of getting an useless part.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,071 Posts
Correct part number is 8D5-959-489. So you have it right.

Here: http://www.1stvwparts.com you can get it for US$10.89. Look it up by part number.

The 1J0/962103/A is also for a trunk microswitch, but costs twice as much. I have the bag from the one I ordered right here with the 8D5-959-489 switch. In fact, I still have the old switch in it... I should post a pic...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Here you go:
Thanks a lot man. I´ve just come back from the car and I tryed making a short circuit with a paper clip (as suggested on that Tutorial posted by drmarcj) between the brown wires that connect to the lock.

Guess what? The ligth came UP! :cool:

Guess I´m close to a happy ending lol

These are the wires I´m talking about:



So if I got it right I don´t need to remove ALL that stuff, only that small piece of metal that is hooked to the wires I shorted, right? I circuled it green. Can you confirm that I need to remove JUST this parte I circuled?



If I´m understanding this whole thing right, the switch that needs to be replaced is inside this part I circulated on green, right?

Once again thanks a LOT for your help and patience!

Regards,
Vitor.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
8,975 Posts
With the car locked and alarm set (normal locking procedure) hit the unlock on the remote twice. First click will unlock driver's door, second will unlock the rest and the trunk.

Open just the trunk and leave it open.

If the microswitch is bad, the car will think you never opened any doors and lock itself again in a couple minutes as a precaution.

I know that the unlocking features can be set up differently, but the above will be how most people have it set.

Anyways, if the car locks itself again with the trunk open, bad switch.

Cost is US$10-15 from the dealer. Whole job should only take about 30-45 minutes to do if that. Most difficult part is removing the liner from the trunk lid. Not difficult, just tedious. A bunch of screws and they're all covered with some fuzzy junk to match the liner.

Remove the liner, unplug the harness from the trunk latch, remove the latch, replace the switch, put it all back together. Piece of cake.
WAIT WAIT WAIT...you mean the car isn't supposed to auto-lock itself if you only open the trunk? Son of a.....I thought that was a feature. Dammit!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Gentlemen, guess I DID IT :)

I´ve just removed this part from the car´s trunk:



After working a lot on it, I found out how to remove the switch and I finally saw the so called part:



Looks like we have a suspect; now it´s time to work around and find it for a good price. Part number on it 8D5959489!!!

As soon as I buy the replacement part I´ll post the results here!

Once again thanks a LOT for your help, specially for greencar. By the way, even shorting the wires as suggested to confirm that the switch is busted, I get no dash light at all; the only result I get is the trunk light that wakes up.

Regards,
Vitor
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
581 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Got it! Just replaced the switch and the lamp seems to be working now. I get no dash indicator though, wonder if this actually exists for Sedan Passats :confused:
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
8,975 Posts
Got it! Just replaced the switch and the lamp seems to be working now. I get no dash indicator though, wonder if this actually exists for Sedan Passats :confused:
I've never noticed a trunk light on my sedan. I guess, unlike the variant which will let you see out the back regardless of whether the hatch is open or closed, they figure that you'll notice your trunk is open because it blocks the entire rear window.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
How much can a trunk microswitch affect?

I'm pretty sure I have a bad trunk / boot microswitch (which I have read a fair bit about on the forums here tonight) as the light in the trunk flickers and fails sometimes.

BUT, earlier tonight: the trunk light failed (bulb ok), the car will not lock or unlock on the remote (have to use key), ALL interior lights stopped working, electric windows don't work, indicators do not flash when the car locks, 'dead-lock' LED is not flashing on the locked drivers door, and the trunk lock will not operate with the rest of the locks (you have to turn it against the resistance of the servo, with the key)...

Could the trunk microswitch cause ALL of these faults simultaneously? I know it all seems to point to the CCM, but it was as the trunk was opened that it all went wrong...

Fuse 38 is not blown either, there is no water ingress, but there are damaged wires to the back doors (in the hinge line gaiter) and one of the back door locks does not operate properly, it has a sort of 'lazy' button which does not pop up all the way...

I'm a bit p***ed off because I only repaired my faulty remote 2 days ago and got it working for the first time (solder joint on the aerial de-coupling capacitor had failed).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,379 Posts
WAIT WAIT WAIT...you mean the car isn't supposed to auto-lock itself if you only open the trunk? Son of a.....I thought that was a feature. Dammit!
LMAO...The more I read here the more I learn. All of this time that I have owned my Passat I have had problems with the trunk light coming on sometimes and sometimes it does not. In addition, when I hit the remote button two times to unlock all doors and only open the trunk the doors will locks automatically after a minute or so.....NOW I KNOW WHY. I guess I'm gonna be getting a new micro switch. Thanks everyone :bowdown:
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top