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Discussion Starter #1
Any good ideas how to get an overturned torx bolt out? I was thinking of cutting a slot in it and using a big flat screwdriver bit with the breaker bar... frig, it was the last bolt...
99041
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Even if I could, there’s no way a vice grip could apply the force required to break the lock/rust. I was gentle with the other bolt and estimate 180+ ftlbs of torque on the bar
 

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I assume you are saying it is "stripped" (torx slipping). You might try this, with a socket extension or something that is hard, not a soft piece of steel , that is the size of the head of the bolt slightly larger. With a big hammer, whack the hell out of it. This will accomplish two things It will jar and minutely displace the interference between the bolt and its threaded hole, and it will peen the torx head recepticle smaller. Then take the torx socket and whack it into the peened in hole. You want it to really have to be whacked in to fit, so tight it has no chance to spin again. Once out replace with stainless........my motto living in the rust belt . "stainless makes it painless"
 

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you can also drill it (the head) with a drill bit the diameter of the "minor" diameter/size of the torx, maybe a 1/4" inch deeper to allow the torx to "penetrate" even deeper than the original torx depth. This will allow the torx socket to get even more "grip".
 

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I know the space is pretty tight, but with the crash bar removed you should be able to get a MIG welder in there. I've had some success in the past, welding a bolt onto another that's been damaged. It's a last resort though, before the sawzall comes out.?
 

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Take what Chief said one step further.
I'm pretty sure the crash absorber bolts are M8 size. So with a ( 3/8 - .375) drill bit, drill right in the center of the bolt until the head 'pops' off. It'll probably start spinning on the drill bit right when the drill breaks through.
The crash absorber will come off and what remains of the bolt, should just spin out without to much difficulty.
 

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I use a choice of 2 different extractors depending on space, the reverse drill bit type or this type (which would work best for you):
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I use a choice of 2 different extractors depending on space, the reverse drill bit type or this type (which would work best for you):
...
if they had the equivalent for torx, that might be fun to try, but it doesn’t seem applicable to this application
 

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They fit either inside the opening (does not matter if torx or allen) or on the outside of the bolt head. The outside fit ones are the ones I used for the torx in the bumper support. The reverse drill bit style are good on lower crank pulley bolts, but I have had to shave them down a bit to fit different sized allen head bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
... The outside fit ones are the ones I used for the torx in the bumper support. ...
ok! I didn't think there was enough of a lip for that. I'll see if they ship to igloo-land
 

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They had them at the local parts store, but I got mine from Sears, Craftsman brand with the larger 8 pc set.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Sears... well, no such thing up here anymore; I’ll try Crappy Tire (Canadian Tire)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Never mind... once I figured out how to properly sharpen a drill bit on my desk grinder, it cut into the metal of the screw...almost like I knew what I was doing!!
99053
 

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Huh, looks strikingly simular to what was mentioned on post #7. I guess all those years of machining finally paid off. :p
 

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Nice! I really like watching other people deal with this stuff rather than have to do it myself ;)
You know...
You're Passat heard that, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Huh, looks strikingly simular to what was mentioned on post #7. I guess all those years of machining finally paid off. :p
Hey - I don’t ignore ANY answer - I use all answers to figure this out. I really don’t know what I’m doing and just fiddle until something works. I’m glad I found this site and all of you. I truly appreciate all input... even yours! ?
 
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