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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
UPDATE: Need help with pinch bolt ASAP! Read last post

So I've been searching around a bit and have found nothing so far on torque settings for the suspension. I'm swapping out both my drive axles and lower control arms on both sides on my FWD 1.8T this weekend, and I can't overtighten them like I did before, causing them to fail. If anyone has a bentley manual or some online resource I overlooked, I would greatly appreciate the link to the page or for someone to copy the specs for lower control arms and the drive axle bolts. Thanks guys! (sorry if I overlooked some obvious page :rolleyes:)
 

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lower control arm specs, iirc, where they mount to the frame/subframe are 81 ft lbs plus 1/4 turn. just did mine two weeks ago. make sure you torque these bolts with the suspension loaded.
 

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use a jack under the suspension and raise assembly to the height that your car will be at. It's a lot easier if you measure before you start, I measure from the middle of hub, to lip of fender. If you didn't measure, jack it up to the point that the car begins to lift off of jackstands, this is when the suspension is fully loaded in the neutral position.

The front and rear arms get adjusted to slightly different specs, I think the rears are 81, I'll chime back in when I get a chance to look if no one has updated.
 

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Old Man Tan
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lower control arms to subframe are 80nm plus 1/4 turn
LCA to hub are 125nm
Lower strut to LCA bolt is 90nm
sway bar link nuts are 40nm plus 1/4 turn
inner cv axle bolts 77nm
outer cv axle bolt 115nm plus 1/2 turn


keep in mind all these are in newton-meters. they will need to be converted to ft-lbs if you're using a standard torque wrench.

and i just use a jack under the hub to lift it until the car just comes off of jack stands and then tighten all the bolts to spec. not doing that is what killed your control arms, not overtightening.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Aight sweet. Thanks a lot you guys :)
Hopefully now I can tackle this project with relative ease. I<3PassatWorld! When are we going to get bumper stickers and shirts that say that?
 

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You should really have a Bently manual if you are doing this work. It has all the specs.:thumbup:
 

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If you jack up your hub until it just lifts off your jack stand, make sure you have disconnected the anti-roll bar, otherwise the car will start to lift long before you hit normal ride height. I couldn't get anywhere near normal height this fall when I readjusted the suspension for winter mode and couldn't for the life of me figure out why, so I dropped the car down and crawled underneath to do it instead.

And, safety first, make sure you place your front wheels under the frame near the front doors in case you knock the car off your jack/jack stands while torquing up the bolts.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So I just took my passenger side wheel off and I can't get the pinch bolt that holds the two upper control arms out for my life. The bolt spins around with a lot of force from a wrench, so it isn't ceased, but no matter how hard I hit it out with a hammer and a punch, it will NOT budge. Is there a trick to it? Do I need to hit the upper control arms up a little bit or down a little bit to get the grooves in line with the bolt? Whats the damn trick?? :(

Ok so I searched up and looks like one of my only options is to drill it out. Any other clever ideas?
 

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If it is spinning at all, it shouldn't require drilling it out. When you spin it, do both ends turn? There isn't really anything that should obstruct it from coming out, I've had a few that are pretty tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well I cut both ends off of the bolt and tried drilling it our for hours with titanium bits. Fucked it up and drilled into the knuckle. Bolt still won't punch out even with the force of god. Getting it towed to a shop because I'm simply just fed up with it. Time to blow $700 for labor bullshit.
 

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If it spins but it hard to remove, then it is slightly bent but still removable. My guess is you din't hit it hard enough with a heavy enough hammer ;)
 

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use a jack under the suspension and raise assembly to the height that your car will be at. It's a lot easier if you measure before you start, I measure from the middle of hub, to lip of fender. If you didn't measure, jack it up to the point that the car begins to lift off of jackstands, this is when the suspension is fully loaded in the neutral position.

The front and rear arms get adjusted to slightly different specs, I think the rears are 81, I'll chime back in when I get a chance to look if no one has updated.
What if the front tires are up on floor ramps? That should create sufficient access and the proper load prior to torquing the lower control arm bolts, correct?
 

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10 year old thread, what's going on around here?
 
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10 year old thread, what's going on around here?
It's easy to overlook the date, but still.

To answer, yes, there should be sufficient suspension loading on a ramp to tighten down everything.
 
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