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Discussion Starter #1
Run 1: full-auto, 49.890 (base-line)
Run 2: tip-mode, 49.339 OC
Run 3: tip-mode, 50.010 OC
Run 4: full-auto, 49.502 (gave up, went back to full-auto)
Run 5: full-auto, 48.4xx
Run 6: full-auto, 49.010 (tried something different with the tires and hated it).

I took my first run in full-auto to get a base-line. I then tried in tip-mode and spent sooooo much freaking time fighting with the tranny, waiting for the shift, being shocked at random up/down shifts that I gave up. I have a better feel for how the transmission acts in full auto and since I never need higher than 2nd gear, I just throw it in 2 and use the kick-down waaaaay early to get the boost up as I exit a turn.

Luckily, my class (GSN) was bumped with two other classes that had people with fewer events under their belts than me (a BSN 350Z and a ESN Miata) so I took first in class anyway.

This was a very tight course. Very much a maneuverability course as opposed to a HP course. FTD was by a SS Z06 Vette at 41.258 and FTDi was by a AS Porsche Carrera 4 at 35.xxx. My best time indexed was low 37 so I'm feeling pretty good about my runs. Except for the HS Civic that beat me by over a raw (non-indexed) second.
 

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NotAPreppie said:
...being shocked at random up/down shifts...
Sounds like your tip trans is not set to "old shift strategy". Hmmm.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Actually, I think the "random shift" was more an issue with expecting the shift to happen sometime within the same year as pushing the lever.

I'd see an tight turn come up that I know I'd need to be in first for the exit to keep the boost up and I'd hit the shifter as I'd finish breaking into the turn. Some time about mid-way to the next turn it would actually shift down and but I think that was caused more by me hitting the kick-down in frustration as opposed to it actually responding to the shifter input.

At this point I think my time would be better spent learning to trail brake than trying to figure out the shifter since I know how to get the tranny to do what I want just by using the gas pedal. This was sort of a feasibility study for me.

All of this is sort of moot as, if things work out well with my wife's new job in December (after she finishes her Masters), we're going to replace the Passat anyway.
 

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I try to avoid 1st gear no matter how tight a corner might be, too much wheelspin potential. Take about 10 psi out of your rear tires and see what that does for you.
 

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NotAPreppie said:
Actually, I think the "random shift" was more an issue with expecting the shift to happen sometime within the same year as pushing the lever.
:lol: How true.
 

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Never had this issue, although I have D4 (now M1) and a Tip Chip.

Disconnecting your kickdown switch will make things a lot more predictable.

Also, check your shifter magnets. Mine are falling apart, and that creates some random shift sh*t. I have new ones (new shifter gate cover flappy thing), but not installed yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm running between 43 and 49 psi front (depends on surface and temps) and 29psi rear. I just started (last 2 events) to run that low in the rear and I'm getting a little wiggle out of it. I'm thinking of running a little lower at the next even to see what happens.
 

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My pornstar name came up "Jay the Snork."
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NotAPreppie said:
I'm running between 43 and 49 psi front (depends on surface and temps) and 29psi rear. I just started (last 2 events) to run that low in the rear and I'm getting a little wiggle out of it. I'm thinking of running a little lower at the next even to see what happens.
what size/brand tires are you using? I'm using (don't laugh) some stock 195/65 r15 conti's , and running 40 psi in front, 35psi in back. I haven't really experimented with pressures at all, but it would be nice to get a little less understeer.........
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm using my OE 15" Adelaides with 205/60 Falken Ziex ZE-512's. You should see the wear on these things, it's amazing what the "M+S Squirm" does.
They cupped pretty bad and I got tired of the noise so I'm punishing them by racing them to death. If I still have the car by the time they wear out I'll probably look at some Falken ST-615's.

My street tires/wheels are 205/55/16 Fuzion HRi's on Swings.
 

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I have found through 14yrs or so autocrossing that when setting psi I start at a 10 psi difference front to rear. In my var on the stock michelin crap-o-matics I start aboot 40psi in front and 30 rear, on a tight corse once this yr I wound up with 22 in the rear. I also buck convetional wisdom and make sure I have a full tank of fuel in an effort to try and combat fwd weight dist.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
On the fronts, I came to that pressure based on my chalk marks. The rears I just futzed with after finding a good front pressure and found that sub-30psi is when the tail starts to really participate in the race.

I have a feeling that the Falkens have a pretty soft sidewall in that size.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
heh, yeah, that is a little off the train...

The shifter works fine in city driving. Sprited country driving as well. It never fails to eventually shift but it seems like the higher the load the longer it takes. I supposed there's a reason for this but I think I'm content to leave well enough alone. There's only one more local event that I can attend this year so I think I'm just going to concentrate on enjoying my "Novice" status.
 
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